.justin.

Well I seriously have my doughts that the shaft right out of the box is worse than the factory shaft since I could hardly move the damn thing to get it lined up because it was so tight. I feel the problem is elsewhere and really probably has nothing to do with the shaft. I need to find this damn vibration or looseness and go from there I think once I find whatever it is the steering shaft will be fine but i'm not gonna say yes or no as of yet. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's good to hear. I'm on my second shaft right now and just noticed the clunking in the wheel again this past week. If this thing works, I'll definitely give it a shot, considering I'm well out of warranty...

Agreed. I'd much rather watch it all on the laptop.

At WOT, you'd be in better shape looking at O2 voltage rather than ltrims. I can just about guarantee that your Ltrims will be 0.0 at WOT under all situations other than fueling extremely out of range. Watch for your front O2s (bank 1 or 2, sensor 1) to be around 890mv. If I were running one of those gauges on a N/A truck, I would check Ltrims across the board once, after the truck had been driven a few hundred miles since the last time the battery was unhooked, and regular driving I'd scan KR and O2. The O2 sensor I would watch would be the bank that had the higher Ltrim value from the previous tests (in my truck, bank 2 runs 3-5% leaner than bank 1).

From what I remember, Bryan told me he re-programs the standard points and leaves the Tow/Haul stock. I mentioned it would be cool to have a 2 stage tune, but the tow haul only affects the shift points. Something about only 1 set of tables in the tune. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Comparing my original Bryan tune to a stock one, in tow/haul mode he raises the part throttle shift points a smidgeon, drastically firms up the shifts and pulls out TM. Didn't compare the TCC settings to see if there was a difference or not.

Company Intranet at work I think I have foxnews.com as my homepage at home, but since I use my work laptop most of the time, I'm not really sure.

The reports that I saw on it said that it is still many years until they have a missile capable of making it to the western states. The missiles they're firing now are basically sooped up Soviet SCUDs...

Mass Air Flow Sensor (lb/min.) = Amount of air being measured through the MAF sensor. You *can* use this to determine if intake and exhaust mods are allowing more air into the engine. Injector Pulse Width (bank 1 and 2 if supported) = Amount of time in Milliseconds that injectors are being held open per intake cycle Long Term Fuel Trim (bank 1 and 2 if supported) = Learned fuel trims based on long term input from O2 sensors. If average fueling is lean based on O2 reading, trims will become positive to account for the lean condition, and vice versa for rich condition. Short Term Fuel Trim (bank 1 and 2 if supported) = Fuel trims based on very recent Oxygen sensor input O2 Sensor Voltage (bank 1 and 2 if supported) = Voltage measured at the O2 sensor. ~450mv is stoic (14.7:1) below 450 is lean, above is rich. Will oscillate around 450 while cruising to maintain 14.7. Under heavy throttle, should read upwards of 890mv

MAYBE $10K with a swap to a motec or similar aftermarket setup, but I can guarantee that absolutely no one has done that for gas saving purposes.

Total deal price aside, what would you expect shipping on billet grilles to cost, at most? $15? $20? Excessive shipping is on the top of the list of problems that we're trying to take care of, which is why I ask... I don't want to be a narc, but it's turning off good sellers and leading to a lower overall site experience for everybody.

You want to hold it for 6 months then sell it to me? I want one, but have too much other sh!t to deal with before hand.

I'm running 305/50/20 Toyo Proxes S/Ts on a stock width wheel. No problems whatsoever.

Criswell Chevy. Gaithersburg. And if you can get them to compete with Koon's of Tyson's Corner on the price, you can get an incredible deal.

Very wierd but cool.

Saratoga and 280. West SJ, near Cupertino.

You can get his address. As a winning bidder on his auction, you have that opportunity. I would call him first though. Along with that, follow the directions posted here: http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/seller...erformance.html The eBay motors crew sits about 50 ft away from me. If they weren't all a bunch of lazy punks and took the day off, I'd go check with them to see if they handle their own trust and safety issues or if that goes through the regular channels. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ok check this out, after his email about the quads getting stolen, he answered again to my other user name on a different ATV saying he still has the quad and he was looking for $2600, my winning bid was $1400 cause he had no reserve and it needs work. But he really jumped on my ass saying it was stolen after I asked him if it was true or if it was because he didnt get what he wanted and this was his response... "Do you not understand what just happened to me. if i wanted to get a certain price i would of put a reserve. i just needed money ASAP thats why i put it for sale.... everything in the shed except misc parts is GONE. this is f*cking unbelieveable" Now here are my PM's to him on the ATV site he had the quad listed for. 1st. Earlier today ME: Do you still have the predator? Him: Yes I do, what u got to offer 2nd. 5 min ago Me: Hey what were you looking to get for that quad anyway? Just for future reference, I dont have anything to trade but i figured I would ask anyhow just in case. Him: i dunno i need to sell her but i wanted 2600 but ill take what i can get now but defffffinetly not 1400 lol thats a joke Heres the items number, I want my quad damn-it 230001783719 What can I do as we sit now, obviously its because of the price since this moron didnt put a reserve up but even in his email he said if that was the case he would of had a reserve. There is a "Report the seller" link that will allow you to report him for this action on the page I listed. I would post his for sale thread from the forums that it is listed, as well as copies of the text he has sent you in the PM. I can check with a motors guy on wednesday to see what he says. Chances are, the normal channels are what you will have to go through (I have to if I have a problem), but with our increased efforts to crack down on problem sellers, I would think you'll get quick attention.

Might take my dog down to the beach in the morning and just kick back the rest of the day

You can get his address. As a winning bidder on his auction, you have that opportunity. I would call him first though. Along with that, follow the directions posted here: http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/seller...erformance.html The eBay motors crew sits about 50 ft away from me. If they weren't all a bunch of lazy punks and took the day off, I'd go check with them to see if they handle their own trust and safety issues or if that goes through the regular channels.

I thought there was a way to do it, Brian at pcm for less told you cant. If you have anymore info that would be a great help I haven't messed with it yet, but if you wade through this thread, you can learn all about it. http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=2599

Had they been around at the time, you can bet that they would have ran this article too, considering the treason they printed up a couple of weeks back: Lousy NY Times

I'm in.

My T/A throws that code all the time. Post-Cat O2 sensor heater failure. It'll pop up and hang around for a hundred miles and then go back away for a while. I wouldn't worry about it until it is time to pass emissions inspection.

Do I leave them in place, disconnect the wires and return the fuel lines as they were stock? What size injectors should I be looking for for my set up? (Whipple SC, 90mm TB, JBA headers, Flowmaster exhaust) I probably won't do any more mods to the engine for awhile. Thanks. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What kind of boost are you running? If you want to meet up sometime, I can help you out in person.

EFI101.com offers courses on tuning and will be starting up an EFI Live course soon. Owner of the company, Ben Strader, has also written a book or two on the subject. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I gotta get to one of those classes. Been trying for some time now <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I sat in on the 2nd day of his EFI 101 class once and thought it was very informative. I'd recommend it.

EFI101.com offers courses on tuning and will be starting up an EFI Live course soon. Owner of the company, Ben Strader, has also written a book or two on the subject.

Instant Econ is missing from the DIC of newer trucks