.justin.

With EFI Live's Custom OS #5, you can. You just have to wire in a switch to one of the PCM pins and tune for it.

You're exactly right In order to get a mail order tune dialed in you need to log time on your truck and send the logs to the tuner. Bottom line, for you guys unhappy with your mail order tune, if you don't want all that hp the extra timing gives I am sure the tuner will back it off some. But....don't go complaining about the seemingly lack of power when you do. Log a run at WOT and cruise and let him see how your truck is responding to the changes. From there it should be pretty damn close to where it needs to be. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Extra timing doesn't map linearly to extra power though. If it's advanced beyond the point where peak cylinder pressure occurs at the optimal time, then no extra power will be seen and knock is much more likely to be induced. No mail order tune can provide optimal timing UNLESS the timing values used are based off of a dyno tuned setup that is very similar. Edit: My experience with my PCMforless timing map. Timing was at the detonation threshold on 93 octane and moving to 91 octane induced knock and lost power.

Yep, we're both AWD owners. I do have the 8.1L Marine injectors. They come with the radix kit, so I've had mine on for about 20K miles now... I doubt that your truck will fit the dyno. Many people have pulled the front driveshaft for a few (or many) dyno pulls without any problems...

The whipple is good, the electronics and injectors are bad. You'd be much better off getting a set of 8.1L marine injectors and having a custom tune for them. Where in CA are you? I'm not familiar with the "Tri-valley" area.

Is it a boost/vac gauge or a boost only gauge? My mechanical boost/vac gauge now reads -3" at vacuum instead of 0, causing my boost reading to be inaccurate. Could be your problem.

Congrats Big O

You can uninstall it from the control panel / Add/remove programs. To just keep it from starting up with IE, go to the Tools Menu, then Manage Add-Ons. From there, select the toolbar from the list and change it's status from enable to disable.

I'm sure you could have a custom steering box made. I doubt it would be reasonable though. Haven't heard of any off-the-shelf products though.

Try to start the vehicle, if it doesn't start, leave the engine in the run position for 10-11 minutes until the security light on the dash turns off. Turn the key off for 30-45 seconds, then start the process over. After the third lack of start, it should fire up.

That's the thing. Almost any timing value I have I will still get some random compression induced knock (2.9" pulley). Out of my last 7-8 tanks of gas, only 2 have been legit, the rest have been junk. Lucas octane booster cleans that up, but if I could whip something up myself to get a true 94-95 octane I'd feel more comfortable.

Yep. Fortunately I can 15 point booster fairly regularly. Unfortunately with the shitty 91 octane in the bay area I HAVE to run it or I'm knocking with as little as 13.5* of timing in boost. Anybody have a link to a formula for boosting octane using xylene or some similar chemical?

Sounds like a common problem that has been hitting some 4L60E owners. My girlfriend's tahoe does that from time to time, it'll feel like it's taking off in 3rd gear for a second then take off. Has happened to a few of the other members of the forum she frequents. Don't know what the cause is, but since it occurred on a transmission with less than 10K miles, I don't think it is a slipping issue...

I'd say it is caused by BOTH. You detonate for a split second, losing power, the PCM pulls timing for an extended period of time, gradually reverting back to normal. That whole retarding time you've lost power from the PCM's reaction to the detonation, not the detonation itself.

The PCMs themselves are physically the same (both 1MB PCM), but will almost certainly be running different operating systems. If you send it to him and he reflashes the 2005 with a 2006 OS and tunes that, then you'll be good to go.

Looks great Holty!

That must be another one. This place is performance EFI: http://www.performanceefi.com/ Two AWD dynos in SD now.

Hey guys Just letting some of you SoCal guys know that I've been told by Ben @ EFI101 that Performance EFI in San Diego has an AWD dyno that "is plenty big for your truck." I plan to do some tuning on it in September when I'm down that way, but wanted to let you guys know ahead of time to check it out. This is likely where the first few EFI Live tuning courses will be held, as Performance EFI is the "home dyno" for EFI University. Justin

What a sissy little b!tch!.

I think thats one of the trucks from Pro Dyno. They've put together quite a few very nice trucks.

Have you tried contacting Kenwood? I'm interested in knowing this as well. I inadvertently set my code and would like to change it at some point...

There are plenty of other places besides the dealership to get a crank relearn done. I'd search one of them out before hitting up a dealer.

What do your front O2 sensors read at WOT?

Vette had the LS1 in 97

Nope, none for tuning. Autotap makes some scanning software that'll work on a palm, but I'm not sure about anything for windows mobile or any other handheld OS's (been a while since I looked)