dantwomey
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Posts posted by dantwomey
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I don't believe Earls supplys washers with there kits (mine didn't) There should be 2 copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo bolt connecting the line to the caliper) Who installed the lines?
A local shop installed mine about 18 months ago. I can't remember for sure if the crush washers came with the kit or not. I seem to vaguely remember some sort of washer with the kit.
Regards,
Dan
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Yesterday I suffered a partial brake failure in my truck that quickly progressed to almost no brakes. On first inspection I could see brake fluid underneath the truck so on the tow truck and off to the shop it went. I just got a call from the shop and they're saying the leak is right at the caliper where the Earl's hyperfirm connects. Their initial report is that the flat washers supplied with the Earl's kit corroded away and they're now looking for brass washers to replace them. Does this make any sense to anyone? I can't imagine Earl's would supply washers that would corrode away causing a brake failure.
Regards,
Dan
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I've had the Scorpion ATR's for three months now and they are an excellent tire at an excellent price. My only complaint is that they look alittle off-road-ish for my taste.
Regards,
Dan
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Just recently my drivers side window started acting up. At first it was just slowing down quite abit at the halfway point when going from fully open to closed. Now on occasion it stops completely at the halfway point and I have to play around with it abit to get it all the way up. This of course occurs with the window switch held up full time. Since the window stopping is still intermittent I have a couple of ideas I wanted to bounce off my forums members. I'm thinking it's one of two possibilities. Either it's a lubrication issue with the window mechanism or a window switch issue. One of the reasons I think it might be the switch is that it's the most used electrical part of that sub system and I'm thinking the contacts that operate the motor might be getting dirty or worn. I'm wondering if dirty or worn contacts may not be allowing the full electrical power to the window motor?
Thoughts anyone?
Regards,
Dan
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About 499+shipping on e-bay for the front ones.
What are the correct GM caliper part numbers and or is this ebay item the correct calipers?
Regards,
Dan
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A recent news article from my local newspaper states that the police in my area want a new law so if you're driving agressively in poor weather and have an accident you pay the bill. It sounds like a good idea but our politicians and police for that matter have along history of completely screwing up good ideas. Here's the article,
TORONTO - The head of the Ontario Provincial Police says drivers who crash in bad weather because of their own negligence should have to pay the bill. Commissioner Julian Fantino will propose absolute liability legislation today under the Highway Traffic Act to hold irresponsible drivers accountable. This essentially means making drivers pay for accidents in which they were driving aggressively in poor weather, not insurance companies Fantino says at least 40 per cent of crashes are caused because people are going too fast in poor conditions and not paying attention. He says his proposal targets people "who could care less" about how they are driving when the roads are bad.Fantino says his proposal mirrors laws currently on the books in almost every state in the U.S.
You see at the end of this article they imply that almost every U.S. state has such a law. Is there such a law in your state and how does it work?
Regards,
Dan
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My truck is back in the shop 6,000 miles after the first front diff rebuild with the same cold grinding and noises.
When I leave for work in the morning I slowly roll out of the driveway and about 200 feet down the road is a stop sign. At this distance I just get a gentle tug into second gear about 50 feet before the sign. It's right after this gentle tug that the front diff starts grinding like crazy. This is the exact same thing it did the first time it failed. Also, just as it did the first time if I drive the few miles to the local tranny shop it's warmed up by then and won't do it.
The first time it failed it had the same noises it has now and a ton of fuzz on the magnetic drain plug. The problem I have this time is the shop where I have it says it can't find any noise and absolutely no fuzz or oil discolouration. These guys have gone for three test drives now so they've made a reasonable effort to find the 'problem'. They say with no fuzz and no noise they can hear they won't pull it apart.
They have now made me two very reasonable offers. The shop manager says he will show up at my place as I'm leaving for work, he lives near me and leaves for work at the same time, and listen to it then as I leave. Or, if I agree to cover the labour he'll pull it part and if there's a problem he cover it under warranty. No problem though and I eat the labour.
Thoughts anyone?
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After another failed front diff I have a question.
Could someone give me a brief description of what's involved in properly preloading (i.e. shimming) the carrier (also called the side bearings) bearings of the front diff?
Regards,
Dan
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After another failed front diff I have a question.
Could someone give me a brief description of what's involved in properly preloading (i.e. shimming) the carrier (also called the side bearings) bearings of the front diff?
Regards,
Dan
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I've taken to changing my own oil (Mobil1) but I don't know how to reset the "Oil Change Needed" that occurs at startup. Hints anyone?
Regards,
Dan
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I was changing my air filter recently and I notice that my MAF screen looked dusty and not very clean. Seeing this and noticing that my mileage has been quite abit poorer lately has me wondering if my MAF screen has anything to do with it? If so, are there any good MAF Screen cleaners out there?
Regards,
Dan
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there are a few. Why are you movnig to Hawaii and which Island?
I saw a black ss in Honolulu when I was there at Christmas.
Regards,
Dan
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Hey guys here's my problem.. I used the search function and found part numbers for hawk pads the problem is, the company I'm using to order through said that the rear part# is for the 4 wheel steering not the AWD. The other thing is the size of the rear rotors I can't find. By the way I have a 03 SS any help will be appreciated.
One last thing how long before you had to replace your stock shocks, I have 44K miles.
Both Summit Racing and Hawk themselves gave me the wrong part numbers for my 03SS. See my post here for the correct part numbers:
Regards,
Dan
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Jordan,
Two questions.
1. What does each rim/tire combination weigh?
2. Do you think it'll be a challenge to pack them safely for shipping? I'm concerned about damage.
Regards,
Dan
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Here's my bill and I'm going to post a pic of the toasted bearing(s) later. As you can see.....we canadians pay alot of tax.
Regards,
Dan
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That's pretty dam cheap. If your talking a total rebuild like bearings,seals, ring and pinion etc then someone lied to ya.
I got a price on a 4:10 ring and pinion gear and it was $620.00. Good luck. Just make sure they do it right.They're just replacing the toasted bearings and seals. They come highly recommended in my area. Time will tell if it was a worthwhile repair.
Regards,
Dan
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The shop that's looking at mine said the majority of the cost involved is taking the diff out and back in. That's the most time consuming part.
Regards,
Dan
P.S. I'm getting them to save any failed parts so I can post pictures.
The verdict is in. Driver's side carrier bearing totally gone. Pass side carrier bearing scored. One of the pinion bearing needs replacing. Total including synthetic gear lube........ about $700. Will post pics when I get the parts back.
All this at 32,000 miles.
Regards,
Dan
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The shop that's looking at mine said the majority of the cost involved is taking the diff out and back in. That's the most time consuming part.
Regards,
Dan
P.S. I'm getting them to save any failed parts so I can post pictures.
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Mine's going in this Thursday for a possible pair of carrier bearings. Estimated cost $800. I'll keep you posted.
Regards,
Dan
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Update. My scrapping noise is getting more frequent but not as consistent as I would like. I can hear it most consistently aound 30mph when engine and road noise is at it's lowest. It sounds like a worn brake pad rubbing on a rotor but it's not since I got all new brakes a month ago. Today I was going around a circular on ramp to a main highway at about 30mph and it got alot louder once I was in this sweeping right hander.
It's a rotational noise so it's definitely in the driveline.
Today it got louder in a sweeping right-hand turn.
It's sounds like it's coming from just below the gas and brake pedal.
List of possible suspects.
1. One or more of the two pinion bearings?
2. One or more of the carrier bearings?
3. The sole outboard axle bearing in the front diff?
4. A C/V joint?
5. A wheel bearing?
I do not want to let this go till something implodes. Ideas anyone? I had one inspection and two test drives and no one has found anything yet.
Regards,
Dan
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I was thinkin about doing this too soon, so what are the right part numbers for our trucks?
SS_BNOON_SS posted the correct information for the 03's.
Regards,
Dan
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I just did new factory rotors, Earl's stainless brake lines, and Hawk HPS pads. I'm very pleased with the results but be careful. Both the summitracing and even the Hawk website give the wrong part numbers for the HPS pads for our trucks.
Regards,
Dan
Brake Failure With Earl's Hyperfirm
in Suspension & Brakes
Posted
My shop showed me the corroded washers they installed that came with the kit. They installed brass crush washers today. This really puzzles me because I doubt Earl's would include washers that couldn't handle the salt on the roads of the northern states and Canada.
Regards,
Dan