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Bowtie70SS

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Posts posted by Bowtie70SS

  1. What they are telling you is mostly true, however, the mods compliment each other. If you're just gonna do a tune and a CAI, maybe a catback leave it at that. LT headers will definately produce a gain but the shorties are not worth the money for the very small gain (5-10hp) they produce. It all depends on your budget and long term goals but it sounds like the tuner is trying to save you some money. Most tuners once you buy in the updates are less costly or free so that leaves you room to grow later.

     

    Dave

  2. What a crock. Instead pf being proactive and working to solve the problems that they have Florida just slaps a band-aid on a bowling ball. I wonder why you don't see them crack down on immigration when a illegal kills someone? Why? Because there's no money in it...I figure there's gotta be an angle where they are making money. I would write my Congressman, Senator, local news, national news, and anyone who will listen. The squeaky wheel my man. On a side note I work for a phone company as well and lets just say they are always quick to blame/fire an employee I call it guilty till proven innocent. As for the union; I am a member and I hope you are not relying on them to help you. If your local is like ours then I wish you the best of luck.

     

    Dave

  3. EDIT: Also with that in mind can the same cop give me another ticket for the same thing at a later date or not? Spring is rolling around and I'm gonna be cruising with my windows down alot but if he spots me again I'm sure he'll check to see if I had it removed. Thanks.

     

    Yes He can ...

     

    And you said the ticket was only $70.00 ... not bad,

     

    In Massachusetts, I can charge you $250.00 for window tint below 30%, Oh yeah ... That is $250.00 PER WINDOW!!!!

     

    Ted Kennedy and $500 tint tickets...I'm staying away from Mass. :jester: And to think I was bitching about a $74 ticket.

     

    Dave

  4. Mix a solution of washing soda and water (1 tablespoon per gallon) in a non-metal container large enough to immerse the rusty part; warm water works best. Put your part into the solution, and a similar sized piece of iron or steel with it. Attach the NEGATIVE LEAD TO THE PART, and the positive lead to the extra piece of metal, and turn on the charger to start the electrolysis. The process will attract the rust from the negatively charged part to the positively charged scrap steel electrode, meaning that the positive elecrode will be consumed in the process so make sure that you've got the polarity right and be sure that your electrode is as large as the part or larger (don't use a bolt to try and derust a bumper).

     

    Mr. P.

     

     

    If you use stainless steel for the sacrificial electrode it lasts a lot longer. Another method is unrefined molasses, yeah that's right. Believe it or not if you leave a rusted part submerged in molasses for a week or so it removes the rust and corrosion. Chemistry is some cool shit!!

     

    Dave

  5. Well...Drivers' hub bearing was shot. I bought a take-off GM one from a local recycler for $90 out the door. It looked absolutely brand new. I didn't get home till 6:30pm and it was dark and about 30 degrees. I need to drivemy truck to work tomorrow so I put the new bearing in, took about 45 min all together. Man, I gotta get the engine back in my Monte Carlo so I can have a back up car again.

     

    Dave

  6. I was considering the Z-pak in my trans build up but when my buddy called Trans-star they said that they(raybestos) had stopped shipping them. This was due to lots of problems with the facing coming off of the clutches and also they warped really bad from what I was told.

     

    I had a similar experience with my engine build, and I swore off of ever letting anyone else build me an engine. Also on the 6-speed swap it has been done with the AWD T-case with a custom adapter and I can't remember if I saw it on here or on PT.net. Good luck!!

     

     

    Dave

  7. It seems that my drivers's side outer CV joint is bad. I am experiencing a noise that you could call a loud clicking almost a popping when I turn right. Also I swear I hear it tick every so often when I'm driving. On the way home tonight my ABS light came on a couple of times then went out. I guess I need to tear into in but my driveway is a solid sheet of ice and it's about 15 degrees outside. I guess I'll order a CV shaft so I'll have it if I need it, although I guess it could also be a hub assembly. Thanks

     

     

     

    Dave

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