Meegs

I just skimmed and did not spend time reading all of it but yes there is a correct way and a wrong way to wire. the problem you will get if you do it wrong is phasing stay with the higest impedance untill your final wireing and then that is when you lower impediance. ie do not go into 1ohm and then back up to 2ohm. insted you should go 4ohm and then back down do 2 ohm. yes there is a differance, no there is a differance in total load. yes the differance is in how you get to your total load. just because the final total load is the same dosen't mean that they are the same. see my write up in the sticky "What U Got" in the top of the stereo forum.

click on this immage and it will blow up so you can see it closer. you will see that there is a lip that goes around the box. the "floor"(?) of the sub box is recessed AND the sub is not mounted as per your picture. it is mounted with the sub OVER the "floor"(?) of the sub box. OK after that then if you look at the contour of our Trucks Floor you will notice a nice little "Hump" almost where a normal persons heals of there feet would rest. YOU can see this "Hump" in your photo and you will ALSO notice IN YOUR OWN PIC that after this hump there is air space after it. This is exhibited in your picture. that is valuable space that you are not utilizing. I don't care dude.....i have 2 L7's that you say do not fit W/O raising the seat and i say that is a LIE. do they over-heat, do they not have as much SQ? beats the hell out a me. i have been ussing this box with a BUNCH of watts pushing them and no problems thus far. Are they low in SQ? uhum, sound good to my ears. I run 1 remote bass controll and can all but turn them totaly off, then turn a dial and then it is louder, tighter, crisper, louder, good enuf SQ, louder than anything i need. hey man, 2 L7's fit W/O raising the seat. PERIOD I blew up my race car so i have much work ahead of me. I also have a few other cars that i need to finish. as you can see i have too much work to finish to keep up this bitch-fest.

the box is recessed from the rear seat allowing you to fit anoter passengers feet comfortably with the drivers seat in the furthest setting. it does fit, and fit fine. At this point i have no idea why you can not see that!

you keep saying the L7's will not fit. I have posted pictures stating that YES indeed 2 s12L7's will fit WITHOUT raising the seat and NOT now haveing a tuck with a "booster" seat. I only stated that YES indeed 2 L7's will fit perfectally without raising the seat. and i stand by that 100% the box is 3/4" MDF, sealed and was shipped to my door for less than what would have cost me to build it. taking into effect the price tag that goes for my time and wasted materials trying to make 2 L7's fit W/O raising the seat. buy the box and reappulster with whatever matterial of you choosing.... :shake my head: Booster Seat WTF!

so, ahh....alright then. i'm gonna go hop in my finished truck that has 2 L7's now.

3/4" from what i remember. i did not build it, i purchased it. for the cost involved in "Trial by Error" i figured it would be cheaper to purchase it from the provided link. it's a perfect fit. totaly crafted to the floor profile. I think the box is fantastic and i could not have built a better one! I have built sub boxes in the past, but i don't kid myself, they were hidious to look at! the box is just slightly over the recomendd cu.ft

fits fine. not much room from the surround on the speaker and the floor. the box has side rails the keep the face off of the floor, by, i'd say an inch or so. the seat folds down to the stock location. yes the subs fit under an unmolested seat and i don't know why you don't think so. the box was $180 (+/-) shipped to my house. the fit is fine. also the box is back from the front of the bottom seat so people in the back don't have to hold there legs out in an unnatural position. I know i would have spent more time and money trying to make a box than just buying this one. http://www.subthump.com/ctbultra.htm thats what i did. cheap, fast, and sounds wicked good!

I use a 6" drop hitch. flipped it over so now it's a 6" lift hitch. I pull a car hauler and have no problems with the 2/2 drop. it now rides quite level

i went to an electrical shop called Grainger and got a DC stud mount circuit breaker. i then went to a local impliment dealer and got 2gauge welding wire 1 PAC OEM interface so i can use my steering wheel controlls 2 Sound Stream Picasso 1400.1 mono block 'D' class 2 Kicker s12L7's 2ohm DVC 1 1 farad cap 1 power distribution block 18' of 2 gauge welding wire from Fleet Farm 1 60 amp DC stud circuit breaker from Grainger 1 Subthump Ultra deep sub box. for $175 i'll just let someone else build it! 1 remote gain controll 1 homemade amp rack 1 rear seat flip down trick. normaly the seat only flips up, not down. 1 4 way hi-beam. it's not stereo related but when i hit the hi-beams, i blind people. just need 1 diode from Radio Shack and $0.85

2,800 watts into 2 s12L7's for over a month now. tight and crazy loud, crazy...

i got a sealed box. more tight and crisper than a bandpass. Oh, yea and it's loud. so loud it is hard to breath when i have it crankin'. I'm waiting for a local stereo shop to do a SPL contest to see what it makes. but with 2,800 watts i don't think i'll do to bad

GM themselves call the stock "spindle" a STEERING KNUCKLE BellTech further calls them steering knuckles. a spindle is found on 2wd vehicals that do not have an axel, rather a SPINDLE that you mount you wheel to. our truck have no such items....... go to any GM dealer and ask for a front steering torque specification sheet. any good reputable service department shall have no problems printing one off for you. listed you will see GM calling it a STEERING KNUCKLE ~with that i quit this conversation.

1 PAC OEM interface 2 Sound Stream Picasso 1400.1 mono block 'D' class 2 Kicker S12L7's dual 2ohm VC's 1 1 Faraud cap 1 60 amp circuit breaker 18' of 2 gauge welders wire 1 power distribution block 1 remote gain controller 1 SubThump Ultra deep box I have the subs wired to 4 ohms and then both subs wired together for 2 ohm TOTAL load. the soundstream amps are able to 'strap' together and have a built in function to bridge together. the amps by themselves are able to go to 1 ohm but when bridged together can only go to 2 ohm total load. that is why i went with 2ohm DVC's wired to 4 ohms then seriesed together for a total of 2ohms combined total load. ONE SHOULD TAKE NOTICE that i did not wire the subs to 1ohm and then parallel both subs back to 2ohms. IF YOU DID you WILL have 'Phaseing' issues. Yeah, with 2,800 watts to 2 square L7's i can bounce the rearview off. But i am old and do not care to do that anymore. so 'straping' both amps together i am able to controll BOTH amps from 1 remote gain!!!! [click on image for blown up version]

here are some pics.... Subthump Ultra deep box. down firing. don't worrie about the down fireing, i have more bass than ANY 17 yearold!!!!!!! TOTAL stock look!!!! TOTAL STEALTH!!!! you would never know....

that is a lie. i have 2 of them w/o raising the seat. I also have 2,800 watts going to them. all hidden behind the seat.

2-S12L7's in a Subthump Ultra deep box 2 Sound Stream Picasso 1400.1 1- PAC OEM interface 1- SubThump ultra deep I can knock my rear view mirror off with the remote gain controll. and you can not even tell i have a system.

Napa brand "Monro Reflex" shocks, stock length and $40 each. work great. took off the perches for the bump stops and cut off a nub. $free

ZERO shims and ZERO vibration 2/2 Belltech steering knuckles and shackles. i don't know what else to tell ya, other than it sucks what your going through... I also don't know why people keep calling them "Spindles" our trucks have no spindles. we have a steering knuckle that the axel goes through though. i tow my race car with my truck and i have no problems at all. I also did all my own install, i always install all my parts myself so i know exactally what is going on with my car.

use paint

what type of fan? mark6

Soundstream Picasso PIC1400.1D to of them to 2 s12L7's sound damn fine. almost (well totally overboard) perfect!

I used NAPA Monroe "Reflex" stock replacement shocks. think off hand they were 42 bucks. i like em with my 2/2 knuckles and shackle setup.

yeah, i know what your talking about. I think i have about $2.50 into my paint job

can you put a diode in and tell the direction? or can you use a multimeter in some fashion? maybe ground out the (+) and see if there is an arc? where the (-) would have no arc. or would that just blow fuses and thus telling you which was + and - ? this is of course the crude way, if you didn't already know the color scheme. i would venture to guess there should be some way to tell polarity direction. hate to go 180* phase