Meegs

I've done a few body lifts in my day. on cheap trucks that i wanted to bang around in the woods. the SSS well to each their own, but i do have some knowledge of what you are going to encounter. first let me start off by going in reverse and talking about body dropin. I tried to body drop a Taho by taking out the plastic pucks that the body sits on but was shocked to find out this was not possiable. not enough clearnace between the tranny and the body. i would have only gained 0.75" but to a car guy they would have picked up on it. Now back on topic when i had to do body lifts (due to $ issueses) i found out their was a lot of work into it, more than a lay person would think about. 1) had to cut into the firewall to lower the steering colum 2) lengthen the shifing linkage into the tranny 3) cut, smash, lengthen the floor 4x4 shifter 4) unbolt the gas fuel filler neck and add length to it. i never did i just let it swing in the breeze 5) lengthen misc wires from body to drive train 6) lengthen the steering colum with a 3" spacer those were the issues that i came across when i did that. prepair for ghosts in the closet if you choose to go down this road. its an AWD but damn dude, just damn

I would use the ultra deep design personally. the amp rack is not as big of a gain to your stereo as would be added air space. do the rear seat flip down trick and put your amp behind your seat. the standard box with the amp rack looks to me like "burglers" may be able to see an amp or wires or even rear passengers kicking their feet up on the amp shelf. just my $0.02

yeah, that is what i noticed when i took the knuckles out of the packaging. meh, who knows if it will help, but i hope it does! i am sure most all of us have some masking tape and spray paint laying around. the paint i used said NOT to use a primer, guess it had someting to do with the heat specification and the BBQ paint is so damn heavy almost already acts like a primer. I am sure that if somebody wanted to they could put one hell-uva nice paint job to them. just not sure if it would be worth it or not? i'm happy with mine and have not noticed any chipping or rusting, but i only got about a week of wear and tear into them. just for clairification the top pic is the finished product and the bottom pic is 1 sprayed and 1 virgin metal ~Meegs

yeah, to say the least! way frickin' more than i need. thankfully the amps will "talk" to echother and i can run them both with 1 remote gain controll. these amps even have the capability to bridge into echother delivering 2,800 RMS watts to 1 sub. some sort of way they are made, the manufacture has a diagram illistrating such applications. all you need are the exact same amp and switch one amp to the "slave" setting and the one with the RCA input switched to "master" and boom your done. i don't know what sub would need 2,800 watts to push them but it can be done...i guess?!. i have the gains turned almost off and controll the bass gain via the remote gain controll. when i initially installed the stuff i had the level gain in the 12 O'clock position and the bass gain down as far as it would go. it was way loud just using the stock deck as a volume controll. i did crank up the remote gain to see what it would sound like and all i can say is, it took my breath away. litteraly the pounding was so intense that it was hard to breath! and that was with the level gain at 1/2 position seated in the 12 O'clock position and i was not even able to turn up the 18db bass boost all the way up. i now have the level gain at the 9~10 O'clock position and am happy with the flexability to controll the added bass via the remote bass boost. I would recomend others to look into the 8" or at most the 10" Kicker L7's along with the Ultra deep box. the 12" are just too much IMO. i think the smaller subs would benifit better with the limit to air space IMO. but the 12's will knock your rearview mirror off the windshield, if that is your goal. it just wasn't mine and got suckered into the old saying "enough is never enough and you'll always wished you went big time initially." you can not sit in my truck for more than 5 seconds with the gain at 1/2 and the bass boost at 1/2. dang man, i just wanted to add a smidge more bass to our stock stereos, i missed that mark! this is my first time using the square subs and i have to agree with the statement that a S8L7 behaves like a 10" round, a S10L7 behaves like a 12" round, and the S12L7's behave like a 15" round. i only agree with those comments because my last stereo had 4-10" round JBL GTI subs and was OK, for my tastes. I was also using 2 Eclipse 3322 bridged amps to power them, so i had about 100~150 watts to each, so much much less power. I did not use any insulation inside the box and think it sounds a tad boomy. i think i will put some insulation inside the box this weekend and see if that tones down the boomy effect. ~Any suggestions as to what type of insulation to use? and how to fasten it inside the box? i was thinking either adhesive caulk or staples, what do you guys think?

i do more searching than posting and in my searches i found out about Subthump! I ordered the Ultra Deep box without seeing what made it "ULTRA" deep. seeing how i was unable to find pictures of it i thought i would post up some pics. I have 2 Soundstream Picasso 1400.1 D mono amps and 2 Kicker S12L7's 2 ohm DVC. 1,400 watts RMS to each kicker because i have the voice coils wired to 1 ohm. yeah it is more than anybody could/should ever need! it realy screams....like I NEED ATTENTION!!! loL the differance is you don't get an amp rack. the air space is used for the subs, other than that there is no physical size differance. my 2,800 watt amps would nnot fit on the amp rack anyways. the subs need .88 cuft of air and this box is .92 so it is still real real small but it works?! i recoment ALL no matter what size woofer you choose to get the ultra deep box for added air volume.

yeah, as soon as i opened the box i saw they were virgin material. i used masking tape to tape over the obvious shinny machined areas. i then used "High Temp BBQ" black paint. heavy coats and multiples of them. i used high temp and i know that i do not need it. it was what was next to me, plus i liked the flat black almost "primer" color. i did not want shiny/flashy paint. here are some pics. P.S. this is my first time posting pics....so bear with me. ok it worked. click on them to blow them up oh and they are called steering knuckles. because our trucks are 4x4 we have no 2x4 spindle. just a streering knuckle with a hole for our front axel. ~Meegs