Meegs

I did not want to say anything about that. I was wondering if anyone would notice or not. I am a fan of the square bodies, like the early 80's C/K trucks. I like strong rigid lines, not random geometric lines, as how the headlights deform the front of our trucks. Some like the headlights, I personaly do not. But you know that is what makes the world go round.

Can anyone photochop those wheels onto my truck...Pretty Please!!!

Hey Thanks man! I can't say I have seen a flat black SSS yet- but, I don't surf the interweb all too ofter either. After the winter lifts from Minnesota some black 22"z will complete the look. I'm also crossed with what to do with the SS emblems. Right now I have 3 options 1) Gloss Black like the '94-'96 Impala 2) Flat black...well just cuz 3) Shave them off After all this is complete, I will be sure and post up some more pics so others can see how their truck would look. Should they choose to go down this path... The truck has a BellTech 2/2 knuckles and shackles

And then I was not Satisfied...so I went another step further. As you can see I am Never Satisfied. Hence the name Never Satisfied Customs.com I just got such a hard-on @ SEMA 2007 and now with SEMA 2008 that I will be leaving for on Friday, I wanted to "keep up with the Jones's" so to speek. I am having a hard time with the pin-stripe color. Matt Red would date it too much for the old Gasser/ Muscle Car era. I am thinking about doing a green. I only had time to use painters pin-stripe green tape. But I am thinking the Sublime Lime from the Mopar line would be a good fit. What do you think?

So first I wanted to see what an all gloss black SSS would look like. And then....

When you get the "Clunk" you will know. Oh, you will know.... It is not so much of a remove mod. Rather it is a get back to quite/ normal mod.

I do this to all of the 03+ chevy trucks that come in. I tell the customer that I fixed his clunking for free, and all of a sudden I have customers for life over a simple fix. Picture book on How-To: For those that need pictures.... http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31625

You guys are crazy, on a different level! I have (2) SoundStream 1400.1/D amps going to (2) Kicker S12L7's the square ones stuffed into a SubThump box that is under the bench seat without modification. My rear quarter glass will not seal correctly anymore from the bass. how much is enough?

8 lug? are the SSS's 6 lug? So correct me if I am wrong but you're saying they do not fit our trucks, right? If they do fit I think they would look totally bad-azz on a lowered SSS. Bead locks on a lowered sport truck

my amp wall is not attached. I just cut it so damn tight it fits snug. make sure you put your PAC off the Head Unit and not in the center councel

And some needed all the air space they could muster. dual S12L7's haha, i'm just playin' wit ya!

I just did a phot How-To on the intermediate steering shaft. I'll snap some pics of my grounding situation. Pretty self explanitory if you look hard. I unbolted where the engin block heater was, scraped the "Wax" or WhatTheHell off and ended run with a copper terminal, bolted back the holder for the engin block heater. I also grounded the motor where it says GND. I'm sorry I just broke my glasses trying to get these pics. Can't quite see what I am doing at this current moment. There see the bolt location....kinda near the coolan hose, but down on the frame ? Red 2 guage for a ground wire..........Flippin' ROOKIE. I bet the truck catches fire and burns to the ground just cuz of color! and Let-R-Buck

Take out steering bolt Seperate the 2 shafts Stroke the intermediate steering shaft. Back and forth at a medium pace. Do not rotate the steering wheel. a few degrees is OK, just dont spin the dang blasted thig 360 Bolt back together PRESTO no more Clank-Oh

the circuit breaker is a 60a that i use for the subs. Are you sure about a direct jump from the alt to the batt? I'll snap another pic after lunch

Hey guys, I am a tad confused when trying to accomplish the Big 3. I did the grounds, at least I think I did. So now where does the Power Go? If I am looking at it correctally 1 of 2 things is happening. 1) the power wire goes back, down, around the T-case pan then back somewhere around the oil pan, then I lost it. There is also some funny stuff going on inside the "red box"! If I read it right there is a small gauge wire directly from the battery to the fuse block. Is this the correct fuse block that I need to upgrade? 2) there is an 8 guage wire from the alt, to the "red box" and then I get lost. ~side note I grounded the batt to the chasis where there was a prexisting hole for the block heater tie-down. I also ran a ground to the Alt bolt near the "GND" marking. Is that good enough? and does that count? I guess it would not for the Chasis-to-Engine, or would it?

my nut came right off. I never knew of this problem till i read this. Wow, random! However i never got the pan off EVER. I used paper shop towels to soak up the fluid. pushed/pulled the new filer in place. kicked my own ass getting the metal/ruber gasket out so i could get the new one in. (use a small flat head screwdriver, hammer it inbetween the gasket and the side bingo!) I unbolted the tranny from the cross brace, and jacket up the tranny....nothing! Never could get the damn pan out totally. however my steering knuckles for the lowering kit took an extra few hours. I had to use a air hammer to knock out the wheel bearings. In the end, i guess our trucks just want attention. They'll take as much time as they want to take till they are satisfied. -damn things are starting to sound like women!

[voice over] sweet box......uh-hu [/bevis]

so it has painted mirrors and a new front bumper...did i miss something?

I'll take it for $60 and you ship it. call me (763) 370-2699 and I'll paypal ya. Upon the contingent that I can get a dealer to unlock it at or around $25. If for some act of god it can not be "unVin Locked" I would ask to be refunded. Pm's also work but I don't check the computer all to often.

I have 2 square 12" under my stock rear seat. look at the sticky post "what do you got" it is the first or second post in this heading. it will give you a broad breath of scope of what people are running. start there and then post specific questions. and for people to hear cars from 1 mile away....well that isn't for me. but suite yourself.

I hit that level with my mustang. I drive it every so often. multiple power adders, and that lets me rebuild the motor every year.

Weldon 2025 fuel pump, worked when the A1000 kept vapor locking. get ready to pinch your butt-cheaks the Weldon is a tad spendy. but after you get the voltage reg on the aeromotive setup it is near a wash. I also ahve a brand new BAP for sale. twas gonna use it on another more mild car, but never pulled the trigger. I offer that cuz i read that you are using a 225lph pump. which is just OK, but the step up transformer would make sure your in the safe zone. but then gets back to heating the fuel........

^ get yerself some army/navy fittings, ditch the A1000 and instead get yerself a 2025, the A1000 seems to have a tendancy to vapor lock even with the voltage regulator. There is no "kit" for the SSS, why would you want one? DIY, if you can install a turbo, why would you not know how to build a fuel system?

When you said your truck seemed like a V6. Our trucks have a HO, and a LO timming table. When the knock sensor noticed a predetonation, the computer went into "safe" mode or LO. Oil from air filter will land on the hot wire to the maf, and cause an electrical short. i run oilless, or paper filters. the paper filter out flows the K&N anyways on the flow bench. grab yourself a can of Sea-Foam, and do an injector cleaning yourself for $5, open a vacuum line and let it suck it into your intake to clean that. then pour the rest inyour gas tank and some in your crank case. change oil within 500 miles and presto...back to new. did you put in NGK plugs? take them out and put back the Delcos that are recomended for your car. a colder plug on a N/A car will yield less performance, more unburnt fuel....leading to plugged cats. always run the highest pump gas octaine you can get. our vehicals will learn different octain levels and adjust accordingly. do not for any reason run RACE GAS! the lead will plug your cats in a "heart Beat" if you hop around on octane levels your tuck will get confused. on a 10 compresion motor, keep it to Premium Fuel. Low octane levels may cause a misfire, and predetonation......doublely with some sort of aftermarket intake. a better question is do you have the K&N 77(?), intake or just the drop in filter? get a mail order tune, i liked Wait4MePerformance. I use a F.A.S.T. on my mustang and turned every nut and bolt, but for the money W4ME is good enough. then ditch the K&N and go back to the factory air box with the paper filter. K&N is a "Precharge" filter, it don't filter crap. I also like AMS oil, always have had good luck with filters and their oil. I like the european 5w-40 weight with there standard filter, not there 100,000 mile filter. I also run the 6.0L motor oil filter from 2001. it is a larger filter for some odd reason. same threads, diameter etc... most of all talk to knowledgeable peple, not folks that have only "paid" for their first HP engine. that is not a shot against anybody here.....just a rule of thumb.