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PladdPezzPunk

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Posts posted by PladdPezzPunk

  1. that should not matter. the tune is not right. if the wiring is all good between the trans and the computer, then the programming is set wront. the dtc setting conditions probably need to be changed. If you put is a stall converter and leave the tranny programming to stock, then you shouldn't have any problems. with the vortec programming, they probably changed some of the tranny functions. Do you have any programs for reading the tune. I could go over it and see if i notice anything that might be doing that. let me know.

     

     

    I dont have any soft wear in the lines of efilive or that sort if thats what you are looking for...

     

    HP tuners, EFI live or tuner cat. similar to the post chase made. that is what i was going to look for. realize there is no converter speed sensor so the computer only knows what it's told to know. in the case of the tuner, this would be his responsibilty. If you want, i could do it straight from the computer but you would have to ship it to me. honestly, if you don't have access to any of these programs, it may just be easier to talk to the origional tuner.

  2. i drive pretty hard. put the radix on the end of december. 5 days later, only had first gear and reverse on my tranny. put the new tranny in and couldn't believe how nice it shifted. the old tranny was a complete slush box, waste of time bullshit for a so called performance truck, piece of scrap metal from GM. I would just do it and be done. If i towed more with it, it would have had the same fate natrally aspired.

  3. that should not matter. the tune is not right. if the wiring is all good between the trans and the computer, then the programming is set wront. the dtc setting conditions probably need to be changed. If you put is a stall converter and leave the tranny programming to stock, then you shouldn't have any problems. with the vortec programming, they probably changed some of the tranny functions. Do you have any programs for reading the tune. I could go over it and see if i notice anything that might be doing that. let me know.

  4. if your going to rebuild, i would definatly do a larger band, beast shell and use the 5 pinoin GM planet's. Also Z pacs are real nice and last alot longer than origional pacs. good idea to do a vaccume mod and also block off the accumulator. On mine, i didn't use a kevlar band cause they tend to seperate. instead, raybestos makes a nice 2 1/2 inch friction band which works excellent and will last twice as long as kevlar. hope this helps

  5. summit is great and quick but i still prefer going down to my buddy George's shop. he's the local small buisness and i support him whenever i can. plus he can get most things in 1 day. and even if it take a little longer, he gives great customer service and it's personal service. not to bash the coorperate america but with out the little guys, the big guys would be nothing.

  6. well tonight i noticed that the spacers were on the wrong side of the leafs (way to go belltech). so i switched them arround, truck went up about 3/4 an inch. put the button bumpstops in from belltech(like 1/4 inch tall), and the truck wont bottom out. still rides really harsh. how stiff are these supposed to be???

    you should try loosening up the shackle botls and spring eye bolts, take it for a ride and tighten them so they just start to touch the bushing locks. I've seen a million guys over tighten these or do it with air, over tighten them and now the suspention dosn't have the articulation it needs. those bushings need to be free enough to pivot easily or the shackles will never be allowed to do their job and the spring will never really compress. try it out, you shouldn't have a harsh ride, just firm. Also, the stock shock will take travel to let the axel hit the frame and still have about a 1/2 inch more to go so you don't have to worry about those bottoming out ever. unless you plan on boxing the frame and doing some dragging. hope this helps.

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