Blk06Limited

Do me a favor - let me know where you order yours from and how the experience is please.

The cool thing is that it covers the stake hole pockets and the clip holes if you have OEM bed rail caps. Now I just need to find a urethane tailgate cap like Adam has. JP Customs has an ABS cap, but that would have to be sanded pre-paint

Ordering mine In August or September. There were some pics posted earlier this month or later last month on here but cant remember which thread. Sporttruck did a write up if you want to see the quality / installation http://www.sporttruck.com/howto/80418/ At this point I'd like to know a good, reputable place to order one from. I know Cal Concepts has then and I think they are ok - but havent personally ordered from them.

AC issue aside. How are you liking the intake? Thinking about ordering one today.. Most info I found on the Volant was for the old design. Curious if you've noticed a seat of the pants, and how it sounds.

Haven't installed a Volant yet, but I'd be surprised to hear your AC problem originated from it's install. Shouldn't have anything to do with, well, anything. Even if the ram air tube is blocking the AC condenser a little you'd be hard pressed to block it enough to affect flow to that level.

I do like the interior, but that's about it. The ARE cover drives me nuts since it's made to cover the factory wing holes and also it's angled above the taillights. Chrome rocker strip definately has to go, as well as the SS Badging since that's completely false obviously. I have SS Bumper and Grill on my Limited Edition, but you don't see me advertising it as an SS and certainly not badging it as such.. Gotta draw the line somewhere.

Thank you, sir =) Mirror caps are also on the list, if I don't get Street Scene repalcements, forgot to mention that.

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'm dying to order the grill just won't have the cash until later this week. Ordering the 5-piece brushed Carriage Works, Escalade handles, 41U Denali Tailgate Handle, and - if I dont find a used one for sale - the liscense plate bracket. On a side note, anyone have the part numbers for 05 - 06 41U (Oynx Black) color matched door handles. Not the Escalade w/ chrome pull - just the all black painted buckets and handles. All the PNs I have for them no longer work and I think I prefer color match over chrome handles.

Just installed the front bumper cover, forgot to order the damn plate bracket assembly though. Matter of time before I get pulled over. Anyone have the front plate bracket assembly?

Finally installed the SS Bumper cover Saturday morning. Took about 3 hours all said and done, including the time it took to remove the normal bumper cap and valance and an extra trip to Home Depot for some washers and more bolts. Thing is just screaming for the 5-piece billet now and Billet bowtie, ordering that later this week. The billet should really pull it all together and finish the front so I can move on to the rollpan. Special thanks to Ed for giving me a deal on the lower center grill a couple weeks ago.

Let us know how they work out for you. Will be ordering mine within the next week or so. I'm going with 33010 Fronts (2wd 1500) and 34023 (2WD lowered 4") Rears IMO the front shocks are going to be too tall for you. Edelbrock told me the only difference between 2WD front and 4WD fronts was the length, with the 4WD being longer. Since you cranked your t-bars down you lost 2" of travel and shorld have went with a shorter stroke shock (i.e. 2WD) Now what I'm seeing, as you know, is the 2WD and 4WD Avalanch use the same PN. Does anyone know if both 2WD and 4WD Avalances use T-Bars? I'd be interested in knowing the shock height as well.

Amen. NT555Rs are the WORST drag radial I've ever run. I hate BFG, but even thier Comp T/A is better.. MT ET Streets baby

Street racing used to be fun, right up until The Fast and the Furious came out. After that it was just a bunch of wanna be racers in POS <insert import car here> out trying to be cool and "in the scene." You get these half-assed cars out there that were never made, or modified correctly, for racing and it's a whole different ball game. Up until that point we would have 30 - 50 cars a night on the weekends - well built, fast cars with good track experienced drivers (mostly) - lined up and rotating between 5 spots, all in the middle of nowhere with measured 1/4 mile points and pleanty of wide open de-cel space. State cops used to actually come out and watch us run for a while before booting us nicely. F&F came out, stupid kids starting bringing this ricky racers civics out, being too obvoius about it and wrecking thier cars, and the areas have been on lockdown ever since. Fugg it - crush 'em all

Looks like I answered my own question.. for future searchers, here's what I've come up with. Some parts may or may not be needed, namely the front and rear 5-pinion planetary as well as the sprag assembly, depending on you cores year (later model cores should have the 5-pinion units OEM) and condition. Note that the 13-vane upgrade is the kit to transform your OEM 10 vane to a 13-vane, not a completely new pump - that would run about $250. Pumps are easy to dissasemble, so I'd just do a rebuild unless your pump housing is eff'ed up internally or externally. Also note that you can get up to 9 clutch elements in the 3-4 PowerPack but at the expense of running thinner steels - you do not want that. Go with the 8 clutch / 7 steel pack for better heat dissipation. If you can do the work yourself, and don't need the planetary / sprag assemblys, than this can be done for about $1200 with the $600 core price included. I don't personally trust transmission shops to set all the clearances to exact spec, and therefore prefer doing the work myself and reccomend the same. As far as 'special tools' go, I general find that I only need a pump housing remover, clutch pack spring compressor, and inch/lb mircometer torque wrench to get the job done - but I've never done a 4L60E. $199 Master kit w/ all Red Eagle clutches, 3-4 Pack w/8 clutch & 7 Kolene steels, Ring kit, gaskets and seals $106 Extreme duty drum and wide carbon fiber band $130 The Beast Sun Shell w/ modified Bearing and Inner Sprag Race $79 Superior Super Servo (1-2 Shift) $63.70 Superior Super Servo (4th Apply) $210.53 Sprag Assmebly (29 Elements w/ Races and Sun Gear) $89.00 5-Pinion Rear Planetary $165 5-Pinion Front Planerary $35 13-Vane pump upgrade kit w/ new pump slide

Ok.. here's the deal. At this point I'm not going any further than Intake/Header/Exhaust/220 Cam/ECU tune - not enough to spin a 4L80 and make it worth the cost. However, I do want to remove 100% of TM and throw 305s out back to make my mods worth while without frying the thing - so I'm going to need something stronger than a base 4L60 w/ shift kit and servos. What I'm considering is picking up a used 4L60 and rebuilding it myself with the best clutches, bands, steels, and planetary set I can find. Throw in a 2800 stall and a bigger cooler, call it a day. Before anyone asks, yes I have experience in completely rebuilding automatics. My question is what are the differences between years, if any, in late model 4L60Es? Just doing a quick search on ebay I see listings for 96 - 2003 replacements, but nothing ranging 2004 - 2006/7 Classic. I can find an '06 core from a junkyard if need be and just use that, more or less my plan anyway. However, if I find a good deal on one out of a, for example, 2002 - than I'd like to know if it's going to work. So.. what are we looking at here? Purely internal differences, wiring, bell housing? Internal differences don't really matter since I'll be upgrading everything anyway -so long as the input and output shafts will mate up for me, or could be swapped out with the correct size / spline count. Naturally if a certain year range has bigger clutch packs and thus would allow for larger or more clutches / steels, that would be a nice improvement. If there are wiring differences, how substantial are they? If bell housing, should be able to swap the one off my current tranny so no big deal there as long as the tranny side bolt patterns are the same. I've had good luck with Red Eagle clutches in the past and unless I hear otherwise would probably go that way again. Doing a quick search, all I'm really finding is upgraded packs for the 3-4, nothing for the 1-2. Are there no upgrades available for the 1-2 pack, I find it hard to believe stock is that strong. Also found a wider drum with a wider carbonite band, that's a given. But would be interested in any input on what is considered the best for these trannys across the board. Any planetarys out there with a higher pinion count or hardened? Clutch sprags? Stronger pack springs? High flow fluid pumps? Want to get rolling on this soon, not doing any motor mods until the tranny is up to par and TM removed.

Just emailed that to my entire engineering team. Great start to Friday morning!

Do you know if the Transgo plate comes pre-drilled for use with the shift kit? I'm assuming some holes in the factory plate need drilled out, has been the case in other cars I've done. Also, does anyone know if the 46-PLT-96 plae listed for use on 96 - 2004 will also work on a 2006. Looking for first hand or proven results, heard there may be differences in the 2006 valve body.

sumbitch.. looked all over the pages for that and completely overlooked the 'options' selector. Thanks for the info. BTW I'm a 10 year forum vet now and a Network Engineer, can't believe I missed that

He hooks me up in various ways sometimes.. bit of money off here, extra prep work there.. Most importantly, I know it'll be 100% perfect when I get it back. He's being careful with the cover since it's urethane and making sure the flex-primer has a full 48 hours to cure prior to spraying it. Beyond him starting late, that's the big hold up right now. He's also gonna spray my roll pan for $100 when I get it next month or August, so not too bad.

Do the shift kit, it's about $75 from oregon performance online or ebay. You'll need a inch/lb micrometer torque wrench at minimum, which is another $80, and I won't touch a valve body without a factory service manual. Some will say you dont need the torque wrench, I disagree completely. Very easy to over-torque when putting everything back together. That can cause the valves to bind, plates to warp, or material to strip - don't risk it. All and all, it's an easy job - go ahead and replace the filter while your in there and replace the pan gasket.

Good to hear, thanks for the input. I'm with you on the stockers, horrible all around.. at least their fairly quiet.

I'm in agreement with all of the above, I think Parish would even have trouble running down a Busa off the line. Even from a roll, that's not an easy race for a truck of all most any build level.

Normally there is no way and hell I'd pay upfront. However, I've known his son since high school and known him (the owner) about as long so I trust them implicitly. Think that's whats screwing me right now, they know I'm not going to go ape-sh!t over the situation. See your running Parada X-Specs. Was thinking about getting the 295/45 variation myself, how do you like them?

Unfortunatley it's one of the best shops and I won't take my work anywhere else regardless. High quality, low volume.. Apparently the volume is turned up a bit right now though.

Anything has got to ride better than these shatty LS2s, that's why I didnt care about running them down so quickly - excuse to replace. Have any pics of your truck with them on? Also considering Nitto 420s 305/50-20s now - for whatever reason they only make 295/50-20 in Whitewall? WTF... Only other 295/50s I could find are both Falken and a General.. me no likie Falken, no experience with General.