Blk06Limited

Any noticable difference in ride quality? Worth the change for improved traction / handling? 295/45s are only 3MPH fast at 60MPH, not too bad - plan on getting a tune within the next month anyway so that's fairly irrelevant. In any case, 295/50s aren't a bad idea. 45s would lower me an extra .7" but would also give me an extra .7" inch of dreaded fenderwell gap. 50s are about dead on in diameter.. May be the way to go, good call Been using that calc since like 1997 - best one on the web IMO

Nevermind, went in and cleared the cookie for the site - all is back to normal now.

Ok.. so I was googling some stuff the other day and hit a link back to the SS forum. When it popped up the normal 'all threads visible' was replaced with threaded mode so that I can only see one post at a time until I click the next thread at the bottom of the page. Went through all the settings in 'my controls' and cant figure out how to revery back so I can see all threads at once. Gotta be missing something stupid.. anyone?

Forgot about this thread.. nobody out there is running this size?

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! *whew* Sorry had to get that out. Just got off the phone with my body shop, who were supposed to have my SS Bumper cover back to me yesterday. Actually, they were supposed to have it back to me last Friday, but we'll look beyond that at the moment... Been looking forward to installing it this Saturday morning all week. Well.. They just started on it this morning because they've got a lot of "big hits" in this week and put it on the back burner. So, not getting it back until next Tuesday or Wednesday now. Meanwhile I made the mistake of paying for the work all ready when I paid them for the hood and grill work. Farking spectacular.

Indeed. All of the above next on my list of hard parts after I take care of new tires and IAS shocks in the next few weeks. Cannot WAIT. Torque Management really pissing me off

No need to apologize, I do appreciate your input. What you listed are needed to have all the brackets, but its been proven to work with much less. Thats just a rough draft. I'll have a full write up with pictures after I do the install this weekend.

Four words: Buy a daily driver ..and a smilie

<br /><br /><br /> Interesting. I'd say if those front shocks continue to work well for you, I may go ahead and use that PN instead of the ones for the 1500 2WD. At least I know they work in this case. Only thing different between our front ends should be that you have half shafts to the differential, and I don't. Keep us updated on your experience with them, otherwise I'll check back with you over PM in a couple weeks before I order.

LoL yeah the AWD question was a dumb one, didn't really think that through. I'm completely with you on the expansion joints and such. That is really what prompted me to replace mine ASAP. One in particular gets me every time. Sweeping turn across this little old bridge on a major highway - front bounces and rear get's literally airborne every singe time, I'd say the rear entire jumps sideways (luckily towards shoulder) a good 2 - 3ft but I'm guessing. Effing dangerous in any case. I'm ordering mine within the next couple weeks to install when I replace the rear tires, and will call Edelbrock again hoping for a new tech. Would like a second opinion on everything. I'm concerned with the first advice I got because I was told to use 2WD 1500 Shocks and, as I said and we all know, 2WD 1500s without SS suspension all have coils up front. May still be the same but something tells me I should still use 4WD shocks in the front since we have the 4WD knuckles and T-Bars. Here again, I think if nothing else they may be valved differently for the different effective spring rates between coils and t-bars. With your added weight of the camper top, you may be better off with the 2500 shocks anyway so long as the height difference of the tube isnt substantial.

You remove the upper bumper cap, and the lower valance assembly but leave your factory chrome bumper. The SS actually comes with a black bumper instead of our chrome one, but they are exactly the same except color. No sense in them chrome plating something thats going to be hidden anyway. Then you get the brackets I mentioned above and a roll of 3M double sided tape (used from the facotry on SSs as well.) First thing you want to do is test fit it and note a good location for the tape, then pull it off and put the tape on. Place the cover back on the front and start on the brackets. The 15182636 and 15182637 attach to the bumper cover right above where the silver brake ducts are on the inside, there is receiver bracket built in to the cover when you get it for those - then the bottom part of the 636/637s bolt to the bottom of the cover. The 949s mount to the top of the chrome bumper, then to the fender lip midway down, then to the bottom of the cover. These are really the only brackets you need, period. I'll probably add the others later just because, but not nessescary at all. Some say you need the plastic headlight filler panels too, but you can just elongate the mounting holes in the ones you have and they'll work just fine from what I understand. I want to note this is the first time I've done this, and the above is my game plan based on conversations I've had with others who have done it. I plan on taking a lot of pictures when I do the install Saturday and will construct a how-to for various forums since it hasn't been done yet for whatever reason. I've seen a handful of people not use any brackets at all, just some double sided tape and 4 screws to attach to the fended. I don't see how they stay attached that way without falling off or flexing all over the place. When I test fitted mine after I purchased it, the bottom kept contorting due to lack of support - that's when I knew I needed brackets. I only paid $190 for all 4 brackets listed above and a bag of 12 OEM plasti-rivits, it's well worth it I think. I'd rather not risk my cover coming loose on even one side and dragging across the asphalt at 80MPH if you know what I mean. Anyway, like I said - write up with pics soon to come.

Ahh well that explains a lot lol. I always wrap anything thats painted in bubble wrap first, preferably with a soft cloth between the part and the bubble wrap, and then put it in the box and surround it with packing peanuts. Just like a paint job - prep work is everything. I'll let you know first if I decide to sell it. It's got a fresh coat of PPG Global base / clear on it - had it resprayed while the hood was getting done last week. Basically brand new.

Ok. Had PM conversation with a guy I know on GMFS who has done the conversion, he set me straight. I have all the brackets I need do this, no need to order more. He also shot a couple pics, and labled them, of how the 949s attach. The 949s are, in fact, a two piece bracket. When I opened the boxes my brackets came in I couldn't find the little L-Shaped pieces. Checked again after he sent the pics and just found them. Top part is L-Shaped and connects to a much longer lower section with the U-Shaped piece attached to it. You can easily see this bracket looking through the wheel well towards the front of the truck. Its the tall bracket cloest to your front tires. In short, I'm golden now. Won't take me any time at all to install Saturday morning, bright and early!

Sorry about that lol I was being sacasitc.The hood was $650 and then a couple hundred more for PPG Global Base / Clear. As for the view, not much different than the stocker. The added center cowl isn't that high at all.

Dammit, another $258.28 in bracketry. I was told multiple times that I only needed the outers and the lowers. Looks like this thing is going on sans outer brackets until I get the rest of the parts. Actually, just noticed something.. Everything you listed above, except for the 15181856s, are listed for "Chevrolet 2003-05, w/o ss 2003 - 2005" Any idea why?

Also, I think Jon may have mentioned these 949 brackets as "the very outer braces that go to the body mount bracket on the frame" in his bumper lifting how-to. But I'm not entirely sure.

Ok.. so I ordered and all ready received the following brackets to install my SS bumper cover: 15124949 - Outer Brackets (Ordered a total of two of these) 15182636 - Lower bracket 15182637 - Lower bracket I'm good to go on the lower brackets mounting above the brake ducts, but still confused about the Outer brackets.. I've heard mentioned that the 949s are a two-piece bracket. However, mine came in sealed boxes from GM and are only one-piece in each box. Looking at them and looking under the truck -on a lift- under the stock bumper / valance assembly, I can't see how they are going to mount. There is the upper portion of the bracket, and the lower portion - both of which I'm sure attach to the bumper cover. Then midway down the bracket there is a U-Shaped piece attached to the bracket that looks like it should mount on something and be bolted secure - probably bolt to the frame or around the chrome bumper. Does anyone have some pics of installed 949s, or could you do me a HUGE favor and snap a couple? Any insight at all? Installing this week and still confused. I'll post some pics of them when I get home to refresh some memories.

I'm no postal expert, but if it's wrapped and packaged right I wouldn't think it would chip.. Sounds like your Regency rollpan was a) painted poorly or b) wasn't packaged properly.

Usually not a fan of messing with the dah too much, but that looks good. Looking forward to seeing it installed also.

Ok.. I am determined to get to the bottom of this so that all SS variations may enjoy the power of IAS. Are you 2WD or 4WD? Lowered or stock height? You used 33024 front shocks which work with 2WD AND 4WD Avalanch/Tahoe/Suburban applications and 34037 rear shocks made for the 2500 HD only in 2WD and/or 4WD apps as well. Interesting combination. My guess is that, on an SS, that 2500 HD rear shock is probable taller than it should be or needs to be because 2500 HDs are tanks in comparison. Bare minimum I'd all most gurantee it's valved differently (Read: stiffer) for increased load to handle the weight of the truck and towing/hauling capacity. Myself - I have a 2/4 Drop 2WD with, of course, the Torsion Bar front suspension. Just got off the phone with Edelbrock Tech Support 10 minutes ago. He reccomended using: 33010 Fronts (For 99-2006 2WD 1500s) I did ask him to verify this PN is specifically listed for T-Bars and he confirmed a 'yes' twice along with: 34023 Rears (For 99-2005 2WD 1500s Lowered 4" in the Rear) It is worth noting here that the Avalanch/Tahoe/Suburbans all use the same front and rear shock no matter if the truck is 2WD or 4WD. No matter what, the front shock is always 33024 and the rear is always 34024. 2WD or 4WD, doesnt matter. This probably has to do with the fact these vehicles all use Coil Spring front and rear springs. However, the 1500 trucks (Silverados for instance) have different part numbers for both front AND rear depending on if you have a 2WD or 4WD. Example: 1999-06 1500 truck 2WD Front 33010 4WD Front 33012 2WD Rear 34010 4WD Rear 34012 I asked, and was told, that the difference between the PNs for 2WD 1500 apps and 4WD 1500 apps is that the ones made for 4WDs are 1.5" taller, that seems to be it. Of course in lowered applications you dont want a taller shock, therefore I should use the shorter 2WD variation. What's baffling me is why he reccomended 2WD front shocks. I'd say the 1.5" lower height on the tube is a good thing but I'm still not sure it's the best. I thought all 2WD Silverados, except SS Suspension package, use coil springs whereas the the SS Package - even in 2WD form - uses Torsion Bars. I would think there should be a damping rate difference going between T-Bar and Coil spring, if nothing else. What everyone think of this?

I've always heard the Belltech Nitro shocks ride rough as hell. Maybe the new design is better, would be interesting in hearing results.

Funny you say that, I actually hate the side profile view as well - just put it up there because I figured some may want to see it. It's rare that anyone would see the hood from that exact angle anyway.

From what I understand, the only shackles that squeak are the ones that use urethane eyelets instead of rubber. Only ones I know for a fact that use rubber are the Belltech pieces. In any case, you should be able to grease them using some waterproof grease to get rid of the squeaks. Trust me, I've had full urethane bushing sets on cars before and that usually does the trick. May need to reapply later down the road at interval though.

The thought has crossed my mind if it's not too much of a pain to ship like the OEM chrome grill I tried to sell. Where are you located?

Fellow Fredneckie here