1BAD2K

Lol sounds about right.

Two things I would recommend is having a shop with a tech 2 tool bleed the brakes so they can bleed the abs unit, and upgrade to hydroboost. It cost me about $160 using a used pump, lines etc and my truck stops like a sports car since I did that conversion.

Cool! I need to run mine down the track soon.

I just installed raybestos shoes and Dorman backing plates. I went with this bc summit racing sells them and I could add them to a large parts order u made. They seem to be of high quality imo. They do offer 2 piece backing plates if you aren't wanting to remove the axles. Mine was apart anyways so I sent 1 piece.

Take the battery up to an auto parts store and they can probably load test it to see if it has gone bad.

Unless you're moving enough air that the factory one is a restriction, I couldn't see it being of any worthwhile benefit for the $$$

Nice!

Very nice. I took the shell off my console for my clone so I could gut it and mount my aftermarket amp and wiring inside there...not fun lol

Hmmm, I do like the closer to oem flasher rate. Guess I'll just keep this expensive module since I already have it lol. Still haven't had a chance the swap it in.

^^yep. Shouldn't have a problem pulling a trailer like that especially if you add a nice trans cooler.

You mind posting a pic of the pin you cut? Gonna have mine out tomorrow to swap, and I don't mind trying it to see if it works for future reference...and I'll return the one I bought @ $45 lol

That supercharger isn't going to be putting a ton of stress on the 6.0 unless it wasn't tuned correctly. Same with the meth injection. All that does isound keep the iat Temps low which actually would prolong the life of the motor. As far as trans, they are good usually for stock power or maybe some bolt ons with some good tuning. If you could get them down to about 16 or so, I would say it's a pretty good deal depending on if it has been wrecked or has rust or anything like that.

Nice! Just bought some of the Zevo brand "super bright" leds from auto zone last night and ran into this issue. I came across the LM 487 module with a quick Google search, but this is better seeing someone actually say it works. They have them at autozone too btw. In case anyone was wondering, those zevo bulbs are VERY bright. Make sure to use the 3157R (they light up red.) Thanks again for the confirmation

Too bad you're not in Texas. Good deal, should go quick.

Also another suggestion to go along with what someotherguy mentioned, I would fore go the crush sleeve and use a solid collar. A little bit harder to set up initially, but it can never change pre load. Yukon gear and axle offers on for like $20.

If your truck is awd you need the 8.5, but if it's rwd you need the one for the 14 bolt 9.5 But yeah as EXGM mentioned, the last 8 of your VIN will tell you anything you need to know at the dealer.

Yeah super simple. I swapped the one side in, in about 15 minutes. If I would've hooked up the line and installed the pads, I would be looking at another few plus a bleed. Pretty simple man. I would guess $2500 to $3000+ depending on where and what parts you get and if they are new or used.

You ever get this done? If so, let's see some pics! I love those 2 piece rotors.

Just insure each shipment. Usually only a couple of dollars per box depending on the amount of insurance. Bill that as part of shipping costs to the buyer.

Might want to try it with stock springs, and lose the spacer. In theory, that would raise you up 1" from where you're at and should stop the rubbing.

Sorry I can't help you, but I think 285 35 22 is the perfect size all around. Have you considered coilovers? You could tweak it to right where you want it.

Going from 2 piston floating caliper to a 6 piston fixed caliper, and from about a 12" rotor to a 15", you're definitely going to notice a huge difference in stopping power. The aesthetic benefit is secondary.

Thanks man, I think they'll look perfect really soon when I get the truck low

Thanks man! They are 22x9 all around. The rear offset is different so it can have a decent lip in the back but still 9" wide so I can run the same tire all around for the awd.

Hmmm, I'm thinking I might just hang on to them after the test fit with my wheels. I'm just gonna have to use a 1/2" billet hubcentric spacer.