sprayed99

Nevermind

"UV urethane clear" doesn't specify anything. All clear coats have a UV blocker. Even Advantage and Shop line clears block some UV. Do you know what micro splatter is?

Had a buddy with his lights on a dodge truck. Nice work other than he just mixes base with the clear so you dont get the total UV protection. You can tell this by the micro splatter apperance in the paint. The lights I do don't have this issue and are painted using PPG DBC line of products and cleared with DCU 2002 High Solids clear.

Maybe you were thinking of my work. I have done a lot for members here and several for local dealerships and other shops.

Nothing will be wasted. Just gone from this forum. The moderators in place now have choosen a poor way of management.

Yup most of us are packing our belongings and moving out.

Hmmmm. Yeah I talked with Brian earlier about this.

Call Brian Tooley Racing and have him work up something for you.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-parts-classifieds-23/magnacharger-mp112-kit-sale-525073/

Magnachargers requires at least the 8.1L marine injectors if you are planning anything more than 5psi. Now, onto the fuel consumption statement that isn't even close to correct. First off, Yes, I have experience with the Radix has I'm a dealer of Magnacharger products and owned the 112HH. Bigger injectors will not use more fuel while in lean cruise if you have a tuner worth a damn. Some tuners spend the time to actually get the VE tables in your tune spot on. once this is done and having the MAF calibration dialed in you will actually see an increase in MPG while driving around out of boost when you have these monster "fuel eating" injectors. Real world results. Trip from DFW to Tulsa OK..... stock except for a tune yielded 20 mpg Same trip 2 months later with the 112HH........... 23 mpg... why??? because the time was spent to get the drivability spot on! Now onto your suggestion of a cam and Nitrous Oxide. All the aftermarket camshafts out there these days are for making higher peak power and a lot of it. There are not many camshafts out there designed specifically for very low end torque if any at all. and if they do make more low end torque it is not enough to justify the cost. Nitrous on a DD for towing? Nitrous is meant to be run in short doses and at WOT. It is not meant to be ran around at torque peak for more than just passing through that portion of the RPM band. Now lets get to the stability and tuning of nitrous a different pressure levels. Nitrous at 900psi and at 1300psi do not discharged at the same rate. which means tuning in your nitrous would be different at different pressure intervals. If the pressure is to low it can become dangerous to your engine, and if the pressure is to high it can be dangerous for you and your engine. Is the OP going to install the proper hardware to keep the bottle at a preset temp while driving around? Oh and what does he do if the bottle pressure gets to high in the summer sun driving around? Have you ever seen a bottle blow the disc and fill a car up? Just what someone needs to worry about while towing their boat to the lake in the summer. Alan, I have excepted the fact you will be around here and we will cross paths. The thing that gets me is you give suggestions to people with little to no first hand knowledge of what you are talking about. I have a hard time with that. It isn't your wallet and isn't your truck, but you seem to fly off on ideas that 99% of people here wouldn't dream of doing. The shear cost of a mistake could cost some of these guys the ability to use their trucks for good. This will be my only post in this thread. If you want to discuss what I have posted here feel free to PM me. Edit* please forgive the punctuation....using my phone to reply is not the best idea.

Meh... if you are going to go that route why not ALL PRO? or Trick Flow? or maybe even DART heads? Pick your poison all of them work for a max effort type deal, but lets get real here. You might as well just build a entire engine then. I hate to see 2500 heads get eaten by a rod or piston letting go from a factory short block.... really nice heads on a factory short block is like putting lipstick on a pig IMO

For 920.00 it does not include gaskets, bolts, rect. port intake, 87mm or 90mm throttle body, X-link to run the larger throttle body....etc. Now that you have the heads off it would be a great idea to change the lifters over to support the higher RPMs you will be turning and the valve springs for the camshaft you will be doing. Don't forget the new lifter guide trays. So using your equation. gaskets: 100.00 Bolts: 70.00 for GM stuff Intake:250 used Throttle Body: 150 for the 90mm GM DBW X-link: 200 Coolant and Oil: 100.00 BTR SLR Lifters: 200 Lifter Trays: 30.00 Without lifters you are at 1700.00ish = 68.00 per pony With lifters 1900ish = 76 per pony And on the flip side the TVS 2300 or D1 Pro charger will make more power than that 120 by simply swapping pulleys. Since you are in the construction business, you know that building a structure starts at the foundation. Consider the blowers as your foundation. Oh I almost forgot....

Actually the majority of that gain is in the camshaft, but hey looks like you got it all figured out. If you are happy with gaining 15-20hp for two grand in heads then go for it

Where did you get such a wild idea?

Hmmm how could spend 15K... let me give it some thought and I will get back to you. Oh and BTW you bought one of the easiest engines stuffed in the easiest chassis to work on.

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Right now I'm supervising the wife and sister in law... making sure they dont burn down the house while making cookies. Waiting of supplies from Home Depot to finish.... about like always waiting on parts! FML

Call out what? You called me out as if I said I could or would build a set of better headers.... I never did say that. I did say that a custom set of tailor headers would be the BEST that money could buy. So you calling me out personally makes no sense what so ever. That being said ARH are great headers.... I have done business with them several times and have a dealer account with them. On late model there is no better off the shelf option. I even sad that in that guys post when he was asking what to run. I wouldn't waste the time or money on anything late model to make one off tubes for. My post was simply telling the dude that just because he bought the best off the shelf stuff doesn't mean its the best shit out there. On your comment about the single tubes... you and I both know that requires a computer bender and being you are in the CNC business you know what it would cost to have one set of tubes made up for headers. ARH collectors are very nice and well blended, I would love to run a set of them on my SCSB. The only complaint I and others have had is some fitment issues. Happy Holidays

Ugh.... people texting me about this. So I guess I need to waste more time here instead on things that require my attention LIKE FAMILY during the HOLIDAYS!!!! We do not build headers for many late model applications for 2 reasons, the aftermarket choices are far cheaper than anything we can make and we don't really have an interest in late model stuff. Any engine builder worth a damn will tell you the same. Custom tailored headers will produce better results compared to any off the shelf product. THESE ARE FROM CURRENT PROJECTS AND WERE TAKEN TODAY~ Here is a picture of a set of tubes that were built for the Twin Moly Tube chassis 68 vert mustang that we are building. The headers were built by us from information from the engine builder (Watts Shop) and also from our Turbo dealer (Tony @ T1 race development). Next are a set of tubes we did for a Watt shop built 502. Tube length and design were specified by the engine builder. We have another set that we just finished for the 66 Nova with a Reher~Morrison 522 but these are still at the coaters. So if you are questioning our capability I think you are wrong (Please see above examples again). If you are questioning every REAL engine builder and Race Development team out there...Good luck hope you have something top secret that no one else knows about headers. Feel free to follow my build thread and I will be posting pictures of my headers for my 32 ford that we are building. Now I'm getting off of this site and going back to spending time with my family for the HOLIDAYS!

I will pass at 80.00

Just as the title states. Let me know. Dan

I need this BAD! Price shipped to 75098.

It is not aftermarket crap. That is Joe Gibbs spoiler and no one remakes them. They are unmarked. I have had 2 of them and both were off Joe Gibbs factory trucks that I took the spoilers off. Even though this guy is annoying 150.00 is a good deal.

Post whore On a side note. Drag yor ass down here!