Jump to content

cb2big4u

Member
  • Posts

    1,054
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by cb2big4u

  1. Lol so from the few responses I'm getting the RE one will be it for what I want and for the price it will work fine? I was just under the impression all subs had to be ran off a monoblock.

     

    - Not all subwoofer amps are monoblock. Like the one you have posted. (Technically you will be running mono though) The main things to look for are the class that the amp is (in your case that amp is a Class D). Meaning it IS a subwoofer amp. If you were to try and use this amp for your highs it prob wouldnt sound to good only because Class D amps are not that great with sound quality but are very efficient. Being that your powering a subwoofer the sound quality issue isnt a big deal.

     

    - What impedence is it stable at, ◦Bridged, 4 ohms: 400 watts x 1 chan. is the one you posted. You pretty much have to match this to your subwoofer. If you have a dual voice coil subwoofer @ 2ohms then you can either series the sub and make it a 4ohm sub or you can parallel the sub making it a 1ohm sub. In your case you will be wanting to series the subwoofer.Wiring Wizard this link will help you understand what I am talking about. Select how many speakers you have (1), then select what the speaker is in regards to voice coil and impendence (2x2ohms), and it will show you how to wire your subwoofer.

     

    - Another thing to take into consideration is the Crossover. In the case of the amp you have selected it has a Subsonic filter and a Low Pass filter. You will want to set your switch to LPF and adjust your LPF, Bass EQ, and Sub Sonic Filter to suite your needs.

     

    These are the main things to look for, a few other technical things also that I wont get into but in your case is not needed. I hope your happy with your choice. For the price I dont know of anything else I can think of to beat that. Hope this helps. Any other questions I would be happy to answer them for you.

     

    P.S. Resonant Engineering is a great manufactuer. They were a lot better before they merged with US Amps but they still are awesome. The designer of the well known RE XXX beast subwoofer has moved over to FI and once I get my set up going it will be FI BTLs and Rockford Fosgate Power amps. $$$$ though.

  2. He told me since it's a dual 2 ohm that would be best as far as price and what I want. And if it were a 4 ohm a mono block amp would be best.

     

    I would go with that US Amp/Resonant Engineering amp that the above poster posted. They make some quality things. If you do get that amp just bridge the amp and series the subwoofer and you should be perfect. I would never go with a JVC amp. No offense but they are a cheap solution and do not put out what they say all the time. Just my .02 cents

     

    Something out of the Rockford Fosgate lines of amps is always a good choice also.

     

    Edit:

    It will not push enough power to the sub. RE makes good stuff, but not for your application. Not having enough can actually damage ur sub.

     

    if this looks funny, it was sent using tapatalk

     

    This is a myth. You by all means will never hurt your subwoofer by under powering it. If that was the case I would have dead speakers from not having gain or volume turned all the way up.

  3. On the way home from dinner with my wife when I see two bmws take a right turn onto the road I was on. I slowed a little to see if they would go. One was a m3 and one was a 325i. Both looked very new (body style wise). Stopped at a light and the 325i pulled up next to me. As soon as light turned green I jumped but didn't floor it only because the BMW seemed hesitant. While I'm still in first the 325i goes. He got the jump and I floored my truck. Wheels on the truck spin a small bit but I still couldn't catch up. Not even a bit. He then let's off when I'm only half way through second gear. Pull up to another light but with traffic in front of us and he is talking like he won (pretty much did). He had 4 people in his car also. Moral of the story is I got my ass handed to me but next time whether the car goes or not, when the light turns green, I'm going.

     

    Also haven't received my tune from black bear performance yet. Should be here this coming week though!

  4. After a call to State Farm, they sent me my insurance card for the 96.

    Duh

    Took a trip to the office and got the card for the SS.

    Found out that State Farm has an app for all this shit on the market.

    I coulda just pulled it up. No ticket

    Next question before i go to court. What is the best way to peel the tint off? Razor blades?

     

    Dont know if this helps but I got a tint ticket for my windshield being all the way tinted a couple years back. Was 85$. I payed it but before I did I removed the tint thinking that they would look at it. I was wrong...the clerk just took my money and then I had to go and pay for the window to be retinted that didnt need to be removed in the first place. :banghead:

     

    Going to court though might be a different story unless you didnt have the option to just pay it.

     

    EDIT: I also just peeled my tint off. Used a razor to start the edge peeling then grabbed it and kept peeling. Dont remember having any residue left over. Did hit the window with invisible glass after though.

  5. you have all that done and ran a 16.3???? look what i have, i ran a 14.5. big difference between north an south

     

    Will 3000ft above sea level make that much of a difference vs 300 ft above sea level?! Seems a little out there but if so i think ill stay in florida. :peelout:

  6. well i just see a lot of guys on here run either the kenne bells or radix and i was just wondering why compared to this. i like this kit bc its just bc of that its kind of a kit lol that and i've always heard good things about whipple.

     

     

    IMO I have been doing a little research and the most complete kit I can find is a Radix Magnuson. If I were to ever go FI it would be with that kit and upgrade to the TVS2300 rather than the TVS1900.

  7. So I did start to hear a little bit of clunking last night and earlier today, I did the clunk fix and the steering tightened up a little bit. It still feels like theres some slop in the wheel, but not as much. Also, it didnt fix the clunk. Maybe I didnt stroke it enough? (thats what she said) :jester:

     

    Mines been clunking for a while now but I havent felt any difference in steering. Might be something else on your truck. If you feel the need, I called the dealer to ask for a fix for mine and they said they have a new steering shaft out that shouldnt clunk.................right...its 100$ give or take and an hour free time.

  8. I recently hit 85k as well. Started looking around as you are doing to see if flushing is a good idea. I found yes it is and by your maintenance book tranny fluid should be changed every 50k. As easy as it is I had the dealer do it just so I know I won't mess something up. Felt good after doing it but maybe it was piece of mind more than anything. I would recommend it. Dealer also said I had a 10 micron filter and it should never need to be changed. Hope this helps. :pepsicheer:

     

    BTW. I think transmission fluid has detergents in it. So more than likely it will still look good. Not sure on that one.

  9. same noise > fixing my ss as we speak wheel bearings hubs timken sp500300 from napa auto store 145.00 each my price 1hour fix each wheel easy.:lurk:

     

    :withstupid:

     

    Not to steal the thread. I shouldnt have posted on this because this morning im hearing a squeek from what I think is the driver side wheel bearing again. (Been a few years) :banghead:

     

    Question was: How easy is it to install the hub assembly? Last time I had mine changed I had someone do it.

  10. Has anyone had any luck with replacing the front bearings or front diff. fluid??

     

    I have the same whining noise like something is rubbing when i let off the gas from 40-65

     

    It also makes some noise while I'm accelerating between 40-65

     

    Had this issue a while back. Was almost a grinding noise coming from the front. Ended up replacing both wheel bearings and solved the problem.

  11. It is that photobucket picture that says "This image or video has been moved or deleted" right? Cause i still see it...On that same note. It was a question saying if you "were" to test the 77 series do you think it would have equal or more performance than the 57 series ?

    Also...What model number 77 series would I get. Because when you put silverado ss in K&N's website it gives 77-3050KP but, I have seen people say they get 77-3023KP ??

  12. I wanted to know. Since we are on the subject. The tests yall made...that i can't see for some reason...yall only tested the K&N 57 series. Would the 77 series pull better airflow in return providing maybe some better numbers that are equal or more to the AEM?

×
×
  • Create New...