11H

disconnect your battery cables for a few hours and put your factory box back in ... OR put your factory box back in and fill up your tank ... either should reset your fuel trim to zero and it will balance out the fuel delivery with the factory box intact ... OR you can just put the factory box back and eventually the fuel will level off, however, method one above is a better way ...

Nice post Kyle ... I guess I am not crazy then ... I believe the tip-in "dead feel" might have something to do with the large intake tube ... If you look at the cross-sectional area in that tube, there are NO pinch points, and it is very large overall compared to the oem tube ... What I might do is try to run the Volant box and the oem tube to get some of that "feel" back ... FWIW, when Pro Dyno was dyno testing their pro cold intake kit, they tried aftermarket tubes against the oem tube, and wot power did NOT increase when they added the over-size aftermarket tube over the stock tube ... 11H

To whom it may concern: I have been told I have a keen feel for changes in my vehicle so I will report ----> I have installed the Volant, and on the inlet, I sealed-off the box to the inner fenderwell where it mates with aluminum tape, so the ONLY places the box can draw from is the 3" hole in the bottom of the box, and the factory holes in the fenderwell ... I did some WOT runs after a full PCM reset and about 100 miles of part throttle driving to level-off LTFT's ... I looked in the box, and all my sealing I did is still nicely intact and not pulled loose, so it looks as if the volant so far, is adequate in feeding a NA motor ... Some observations I would like you to comment on, if or not you have experienced the following ... 1. My Flowmaster Big Block muffler has gotten quieter, yes, quieter under part throttle namely interior drone and under load, it is significantly quieter... also while in park sitting still, I rev the motor and it is quieter, and the motor seems to rev quicker ... (I am wondering if the louder/higher resonance exhaust is because the oem system pulls more vacuum under part throttle conditions, (due to more restriction) and makes the exhaust have more "load" hence changing the harmonics) 2. My tip-in "feel" has changed ... the motor is responsive yes, a bit more-so, but under normal driving it seems I have to give it more throttle input to get things moving ... again, I wonder if this is due to the lessened vacuum off idle ... (This might take some getting used to) 3. The "whistle" ... comes and goes ... I believe it is the lid leaking where it mates to the box ... it's not a perfect seal and might be pulling through there making the whistle ... mine is intermittent at 1/2 throttle or higher ... 4. My cruise LTFT's at 70 mph on flats, has gone from 6.25% to about 7-8.5% ... MAF lb/hr is the same ... It has been much colder yesterday, so the increased trims might be because of the cooler air (density) ... Please, if you have input, lets have some discussion ...

I sent you a PM ... LOL ... You have no idea why it is clunky ... typical honda for ya ... the 450R in 04 and 05 is identical "long rod" motor ... It's clunky because it is corked-up so bad it can't breathe ... the 06 went a bit more aggressive with a different motor (same as CRF450X) ... However, we can get your 05 to run even better (It can actually make more power than the new 06 and up) ... read my PM

Kyle, I know most of the builders and pipe fabbers ... To give you a choice on a good pipe, I need to know your mods and your intended mods, because to get the MOST out of a pipe, I need to know where and how your motor makes power ... In that, if you want the BEST pipe for overall performance that will make it actually feel like you made an improvement, the SPARKS RACING 2" core X5 pipe would be my choice ... (I have run 4 or 5 different pipes on my R and I run the sparks X6 witht he 2 1/4" BIG core) ... The pipe has some things other pipes on the market don't have, on dyno results you DO NOT want to look at HP max or curve, you want to look at the pipe that makes the BROADEST and BIGGEST (flat and overall) torque curve ... The TQ that comes on earliest, holds the longest and is broadest is what accelerates a quad ... NOT max HP However, if you still have the stock cam, you are wasting your money on a full system ... In this case, go with the HMF slip-on sport or the DR. D (dubach racing) slip-on ... The stock Honda header is very adequate with a slip-on if you have not upgraded the stock cam ... and I wouldn't think you have increased compression without doing the cam ... my .02 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> So far I am all stock. I don't think I wanna go crazy moding the quad. If I do I cam it won't be for a couple seasons. For now I am just thinkin about exhaust, jetting, and air box/filter. What are your thoughts on these systems: DASA, Rossier, ESR? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> what year is your R, and where and how do you like to ride it? (revved out, lugging it, dunes, trails, MX, XC, what?)

You have to decide on a cam now then before you run a full pipe ... a cam on this quad is not equal; they all do different things and mismatch the pipe to cam and you might have a quad that is not what you want ... Where do you ride and how? I can recommend a cam then ... (BTW, I wrote many of the tech posts in the FAQ of the trx450r.org site when I was admin there ... I helped start that site from the word go) ... I admin at atvtech.net now

Kyle, I know most of the builders and pipe fabbers ... To give you a choice on a good pipe, I need to know your mods and your intended mods, because to get the MOST out of a pipe, I need to know where and how your motor makes power ... In that, if you want the BEST pipe for overall performance that will make it actually feel like you made an improvement, the SPARKS RACING 2" core X5 pipe would be my choice ... (I have run 4 or 5 different pipes on my R and I run the sparks X6 witht he 2 1/4" BIG core) ... The pipe has some things other pipes on the market don't have, on dyno results you DO NOT want to look at HP max or curve, you want to look at the pipe that makes the BROADEST and BIGGEST (flat and overall) torque curve ... The TQ that comes on earliest, holds the longest and is broadest is what accelerates a quad ... NOT max HP However, if you still have the stock cam, you are wasting your money on a full system ... In this case, go with the HMF slip-on sport or the DR. D (dubach racing) slip-on ... The stock Honda header is very adequate with a slip-on if you have not upgraded the stock cam ... and I wouldn't think you have increased compression without doing the cam ... my .02

I assume your SC doesn't make boost in park revving right?

I have a diablosport custom Tune written by the head of R&D ... He's been tuning for 10 years; does that count? ... (Their software has the same capability as HPT) ... The files are in .3cl format for the newer stuff ... All I know is the only fuel I can run here is Mobil 91 as the timing is pretty stout at PT and WOT ... I have some EGR enhancements as well for MPG ...

OK, I installed the volant ... I also used aluminum tape to seal the box to the fender so the ONLY place it can pull air is from the fender where the stock box pulls from, and from the 3" hole in the bottom of the Volant ... Honestly? I am having a hard time telling a difference from stock box with a K&N flat filter vs. the Volant ... I know the butt dyno is not a good judge, so here I have to ask you fine folks ... Has anyone actually measured a GAIN with the Volant at the track or on the dyno? Are there any independant tests? ... I sold my AEM to get this one and I am a skeptic I guess ... 11H

It's kinda funny ... I have several friends at my local dealership and I was actually in the market for a Duramax Diesel when I bought my truck ... I was told many LLY Duramax's are having overheating problems and GM had been dragging their feet on the fix ... Turned out their idea of a TSB/Fix was to fit a 2006 LBZ intake to try to cool the intake charge more to lessen overheating ... 3 techs and the mgr told me that if it was between a gas truck and a $46K duramax, not to spend my money on the diesel unless I HAD TO HAVE the towing capacity ... Since the LLY introduced in 2004.5 they said the duramax has become much less reliable due to the ULSD pinch they saw coming ... I have heard the VVT (variable vane turbos) might be the variable as to why some overheat and some don't ... So, I tow maybe 5000 to 6000# and I pull quads so I needed the 4wd and clearance also ... For $34K (sticker) at 0% I wend with the VMax ... I think it is unique enough and has the "goodies" you can't get in a 5.3 1500 ... so much as it might be easier to sell later on ... I guess I would love a duramax, but I would have a real hard time if I had issues with such an expensive truck ... Hell, here in AZ, they won't even look at you if you have a duramax with oversize tires and a small lift ... they are getting pretty picky on diesels because warranty claims are so costly ... I think the gassers are more user friendly and cheaper to maintain too ...

Here's the owner of Phoenix Transmission on another site talking up the 4L70E ... At least in the SSR/LS2 I agree with GM's decision to use Torque Management on these vehicles because the power and weight of these vehicles combined with an abusive driver could present some liability for them. My point was that I have personally seen some of my customers with thousands of pretty hard street miles put on the 4L70E with no adverse effect and these vehicles were driven much harder than most of us will drive. I will offer this to anyone on the forum, if you are the first one to break your SSR 4L70E in a non supercharged application in less than 75,000 miles ship it to me and I will rebuild it for you for free. Now don't all go out and start beating the hell out of them just to be first in line, I will do the second one for half price. I really feel that confident about the ability of the 4L70E to do the job.

imo the ss is more unique because so little were produced, the vho looks the same as every other silverado . if you want to trade it though , there is nothign like a new truck with warranty. thats about the only reasons i could see trading. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Just to clarify there is substantial differences in the VHO (04,05) and the VortecMAX in 06 and classic 07 ... People seem to lump them together and package in the VortecMAX performance pack is substantially different ... Wasn't the SS in these years full time AWD? with no provision to switch to 2wd or 4LO? ... That's the difference I mentioned ... I thought the SS has always had a FULL TIME AWD up until this year (06) which is 2wd ... I didn't know 4.10's were available in the AWD pre-06 SS ... The 8.5 (or actually 8.625) rear is inferior to the 9.5 in the Vmax ... aside from the rear drums which pre-05 the ss has disc right? He said VortecMAX not VHO, which means 06/07 by default ... all Vortec MAX's have the 4L70E ... A warmed over 4L65E with shot peened parts, a shot peened/upgraded reaction assembly, and a revised friction material said to reach 200K miles ... The 70E also has revised max RPM limits due to being used behind the LS2, it is able to spin to 6400 in all gears other than OD of course ... IMO, the part time 2 speed Tcase is available (4HI, 4LO and autotrac) as is 2wd in the VMax, you get the 70E by default which to upgrade the hard parts in the 65E will cost you some coin, nice to have it stock, the other basics will be needed though for HP above 450RWHP as in the mods you are all doing to the 65E's ... You get the heavy 9.5 14 bolt rear which in this also has the G80 sized-up ... It comes down to if you want the SS fascia and design and sacrifice a bit of driveline robustness ... Plain Jane VortecMAX with a stronger powertrain or an SS with all the design and SS look ... In the end, it comes down completely to how far you are going to mod and what ... If I had several thousand modding dollars, I would take the SS because you can strengthen the driveline to near the vmax (if you want to go into replacing the rear diff which I don't think many do) The 65E can be built to 70E specs easily for maybe $1000 to 1200 labor included, and then it comes down to 4wd ... you get a 3 position tcase in the max ... you get either awd or 2wd in the SS ... To me, it was a downgrade in looks to get the Vmax, but the powertrain parts I was getting stock was a plus, because my modding money is on a budget ... to each their own

SS has a part time transfer case with autotrac? SS has a 9.5" inch 14bolt rear with 4.10's? SS has the TBSS tranny? (4L70E) SS has the 8.25" front diff? To me, if you are into modding, the vortec max is a better platform to start from ... I will get heat for it, but it is my opinion ... Yep, same thing ...

Gotcha ... I am aware of the 5119 and it's price ... Before I go that route however, I wanted to see if anyone was running say an 8 ply S&B or maybe a AIRAID 5 ply or something ... The S&B is a superior filter to K&N and the Volant, but much less $$$ ... and they test out to a pretty good standard ... I do know the surface area of the volant is well more than what our motors need to breathe (about 610 cfm) NA ... so if the S&B 5" top dia doesn't fit, I can step down to a shorter filter to get into the 4.5" top dia range ... What it comes down to is, I will not pay $50 for a gauze filter ... Unless that's the only option ...

You say you "left in 20% of the TQM" ... Well, there are 3 phases/types of TQM ... 1. Abuse Mode 2. Upshift TQ Reduction Mode 3. Overall TQ Reduction Mode (Based on load, tps, temp, etc) The one that may very well be the culprit in YOUR description is #1 ... There is about a 2-3 second delay off the line to where the PCM won't allow open loop/PE (power enrichment tables) ... Once that timer counts to ZERO, then PE kicks-in and gives you a PE table ... In my experience, when you are doing a wot launch, with #1 intact, it can also pull some timing via KR (knock retard) as well due to the lean AFR targeted at the full load you are demanding ... REMOVE #1 and you will have a nice hard launch; however, bear in mind, you will then have about 30% or more shock loading taking up the driveline from a stand-still ... So my advice is to slightly load up the driveline with foot on brake (hard) and instead of slamming it to the floor, roll into it quickly as then the driveline sees a slightly more "progressive" torque delivery ... The goal is when you launch, to have all the slack taken up out of the driveline, have the converter near flash point, (about 1600-1800 rpm) and roll into it as to have a good launch with a balance of gradual but quick throttle application as to lessen the HIT ... (most street races are decided from the launch) Many people have a different approach however ... But with our 4L70E, having an upgraded reaction assembly, and many shot peened parts, OVER the 4L65E, I think this trans can tolerate quite a bit more abrupt input torque than the 4L65 and 4L60 because the hard parts that are sensitive to hard hits, have been upgraded ... (I have talked to a GM tranny perf builder, and all the 4L70 really needs up to about 400-450RWHP is friction material care in that you want to reduce shift times and have firmer application as to reduce slippage as to not glaze or over heat the surfaces) ... This trans has been in the 2005-up LS2/SSR for a while now and he has yet to see one come in broken or for a rebuild... And for the rear-end? ... Not a worry ... The 9.5 ringed 4.10 14 bolt can take a lot of abuse ... (as long as you are not hammering it around corners to put the G80 into activation and slam it too hard) ... Straight-line runs, our rear diff is well over sized to take it ... The SS for example has the 8.625 10 bolt which is a stout rear, but not like our's in the Vmax package ... my .02

Hey all, I just got me a Volant and I always like to have a spare filter cleaned, oiled and ready to go ... Do any of you use or know of a different filter and part number that fits nicely? I have been checking out S&B but it looks like the end caps on their 6" inlet filters being larger diameter, might not clear the cover on the Volant ... Just wondering what you guys with Volants (new style) are running ... Thanks 11H

well... she didn't just lose control... she ran into a civic THEN lost control and then... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> LOL ... semantics semantics ... If she was under control, she would not have hit the Civic right? ... Part of the definition "loss of control" is hitting something you would rather not hit ... Civic, Toll Booth, pavement, etc., etc ... at whatever speed, or angle ... Now this guy is SAFE ------>

I won't view the pics, so saying that ... My sister in law owns a black 911 carrera ... (2004) ... It is a non-turbo and running on NM fuel (detuned via pcm) it is quick, but not a handful ... My brother in law was in his XLR (320hp) and I was in the 911 and on the flats we were pretty neck and neck, until my gearing would start to take him over about 90 or so ... I believe her Carrera has about 315 HP but it's spaced nice ... About the handling ... Have any of you ever driven a new 911? ... I have to say it, I have never driven anything that compares ... Having first hand drive time behind one of these cars, 100 mph in one is literally nothing as far as handling goes; if you were to mis-manage one at that speed, you have no business driving one period... they are very good handling cars at speed and well balanced with more traction than anyone would believe ... they simply feel locked to the road, and driver ergos and feel are superb ... what I am saying, is if she lost control in a new 911 carrera, she likely would have lost it sooner on in ownership in a lesser vehicle ... the 911 can inspire confidence because it is what it is; confidence without common sense well ... there ya go ...

can you post pictures of the whole tail pipe section, preferabbly cleaned up? ... I might get it from ya ... oh, and on that "CLAMP" ... yeah, some arse backwards schmuck even spot-welded it on so you can't turn it around either ... I removed said CLAMP with die grinder and put a new one on turned the correct way ...

ahhh ... gotcha ... sorry

I can ASSURE YOU ... You will not see a drop in suggested retail price (what stores are contracted to sell systems for) on the PS3 for at least a year to one and a half ... a new release as the PS3 will not see a price drop any time soon ... maybe some core bundles after MAYBE a year if their sales fall off, which they won't ... SONY has yet to make a single mistake in any of their system releases ... IMO Get one at the retail of $599 if you can before the rush after T-Day

not all of the vortec max's are 2wd ... some us have the 2wd/awd option at the push of a button ...

Tentative cost Tom? Any coating options?

Can anyone answer ... 1. what is the factory tail pipe diameter on the SSS ? 2. Did they change it at any model year to something else ? 11H