11H

Interesting ... I wonder id the SS grommet is different than all the other then? ... hmmm ... anyone want to guess? 15153 is the SSS kit 15053 is for the rest of the gen 3 silverados

Yes, the cal team at Diablosport can write any tune you want with the same capability of HPT or EFILive ... The gap however is being able to communicate with them in enough detail to tell them what you are running and what you want ... If you don't have the lingo, it's gonna be tough to interface with one of their tuners, and they will then take some basic info and write you a tune ... which will be much better than the canned version ... I am running a few pretty aggressive tunes here from them, but my 10% ethanol (RFG) fuel at a max of 91 octane mobil, I can't get as aggressive as I would like ...

If it was a real 110, you would have some heat related issues as well ... a real 110 would alter combustion timing quite a bit ...

Ya know, that is one nice ride ! ... I love those split bumpers! ... A good friend just bought a 73 ... Forest green with SS stripes ... all cherry ... My dream car is a '68 SS 396 in Silver with black stripes (Borg Warner straight throw 4) ... I change my oil every 3K as well ... I use Pennzoil or Havoline exclusively in my daily cars & trucks for the first 6 or 7K ... I have done some repeated flogging with these 2 oils on the dyno back to back trying to induce heat soak in cai testing and it holds up fine ... Then I go Mobil 1 0W40 in NA trucks or German Castrol if I can find it ... after a treat of Militec, then I run 5K ... I have a 05 vic that gets the Castrol 5W20 and it comes out very clean in UOA so I stick with it ... The 5W20's are phenominal in the Ford modulars that recommend it ... I used to run RP21 in my LT1's and they loved it, but it got hard to find here ... The Ls1 type motors on the other hand tend to favor an oil with a cSt of about 11 to 12 at 100C ... for best UOA's anyways from what I have seen ... and on the cold side, @40C, whatever is lowest ... Maybe 80 to 90 cSt ... The 5W40's and 0W40's run good ranges here in AZ ... A 0W30 is a little light for my blood here in near 120 deg heat ... For sure, anyone running nos or blower needs a top tier full syn oil ... Like RP race, Redline, M1 Ext Perf, M1 5W40 Truck & SUV (actually Delvac1 in a different bottle haha; about the best 5W40 on the PLANET!) ... IMO

Maybe I can simplfy this for ya ... Hypertech as far as gas tuners go, are the LEAST respected handheld, and out of all I have seen on the dyno, before and after, same day, same strap-down after repeated pulls, they make ZERO ... The only ones that make power are the Diesel versions and out of all the handhelds, the Diesel Hypertech are the LOWEST gainers ... If you want something to change the stock sluggish trans, re-cal the speedo for tires, and change rev limit and shift points, go for it ... If you are trying to make power, the Hypertech will not do it for you ... And if the guy at Hypertech told you that with a straight face, he is probably the same guy that thinks a Miata is the fastest thing on 4 wheels ... In the real world that HP claim is laughable ... On the SSS with an already aggressive oem tune (91) to say their 87 makes over 20 hp is insane ... There is a reason why Hypertech was my FIRST tuner in 1996 and the last ... For god's sakes, if you want a handheld by a Predator at least that way they can write you a custom tune with info exchanged over the phone ... They will come pretty close to 10hp with some basic info about your fuel and your truck ... Diablosport has the software and capability to do everything Jesse can do ... as a matter of fact, my contact at diablosport, tells me he knows jesse personally and vouched for him as being a good tuner ... These trucks have been around for some time and as far as power, your're dealing with timing and fuel mostly, no real black magic ... Hypertech will not put an aggressive tune in something built for the masses ... 11H

I apologize for this not being better organized and written ... I am trying to write at work and it's all from the hip ...

There are a lot of people on here who respond to oil questions, and I don't want to step on anyone's toes ... If I get any off responses from anyone, this will be the last one I respond to ... Oils are like religion ... Ya never tell anyone anyting about oil because you're bound to get into it ... And in the end, a lot of things are hard to prove scientifically on a single case basis ... so it goes ... I have run RP41, and RP 21 in V8 engines, and have spent extensive time conversing with RP's tech dept on things like this you mention ... Let's clarify something ... In GF-3, and GF-4 oils, API starburst, yada yada, Phosphorous and Zinc (indirectly) has been capped ... I believe it is 900 ppm or so in a GF-4 oil ... The surrounding controversy you mention is, "does too much phos in an oil affect emmissions" ... some say YES, some say NO ... It is true that phos in long term tests deteriorates the catalyst in the converters, and they are mandated by the oem's to guarantee them for 100,000 miles (I think) ... So the push is for low phos content to preserve catalyst ... Zinc in high doses is not good for emmissions components either ... I say, "let's put the protection back in oil, and keep the vehicle maintained over the long haul and maybe the extra phos and zinc will inhibit ring wear and we won't be passing oil into the cats" ... Thats a general statement, but you get the idea ... (let's refer to phos and zinc as ZDDP because that's the acronym) Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate .. Now, how much zddp anti-wear additives depends on what the motor is used for ... a daily passenger car at recommended intervals IMO is well protected with the capped levels of zddp (along with the other new an upcoming aw adds like boron, and moly) and a few "fluid aw adds in the ester" family that can be polar ... zddp levels in PCMO is adequate to pass the GF-4 and GF-3 protocol ... But when we get into hobbyists like ourselves, we run things hotter, higher rpm, and increase loads on internal bearing surfaces ... Enter the non-api / starburst oils ... the non-GF3 or GF4 oils ... you can have a valid spec 5W30, but it might not be Starburst of GF-3 or 4 rated ... why? because (mainly) it has too much zddp, which the emmissions gods don't like ... aw additives are depleted in oils asis the whole add package, over use or mileage ... the only time zddp comes into play is when the fluid barrier has been breached and you go metal to metal ... (rare) ... then it is the aw adds that protect bearing surfaces ... more is not always better, it depends on the application, how long the fluid barrier is lost, and how fast you spin the motor and for how long ... and of course the pressure between surfaces trying to squich the oil molecule from adhesion ... There are many many oils that have more than the capped zddp levels, RP race oils being one of them ... there are alternatives as well, and it gets pretty complicated ... Mobil 1 extended performance (their 15K oil) has about double the zddp as a GF-3 or 4 oil ... remember when I said additives deplete over time? ... M1 15K oil is not oem warranty approved for this reason ... GF-3 or GF-4 ... it has too much zddp ... it also has more of the other things that make up an add-pack to go the 15K as well ... (extended performance M1 is a tuner's secret and holds it's own in extremes near as good as redline) ... another oil people over look as a beautiful tuner's oil is HDMO (dual rated diesel and gas oils) they have even more AW adds and inhibitors than a racing oil ... I know a local builder who swears by Delo 400 15W40 in his old school motors and for damn good reason ... I can go on and on ... best thing to do is go to bobistheoilguy.com and look at their voa section under RP race oils and you will see IC results on virgin samples as to the ppm levels of many extended performance oils and racing oils ... remember, more of one thing or another is not always better ... viscosity first, then the overall base and add-pack as a whole quart of oil id how you judge an oil ... RP for me? my opinion? buy some M1 7500K or 15K oil over the counter and call it a day ... if you want the best, buy Redline ... does a SSS need it? ... Not until you like spinning rear mains with bukoo torque off the line ... IMO, the M1 api oil is capped at about 900ppm zddp ... the 15K oil is not and gives you a much more robust add pack with a true PAO syn base ... all over the counter under our noses ... what I mean is, in a daily driven SSS there are more important things to look at in an oil choise than zddp levels if and when you would rarely see a breach in the fluid barrier ... GF-3 and GF-4 oils due to the testing requirements have pushed dino base oils to near syn performance and truth be told, the ONLY true full syn on the shelf at walmart anymore is M1 and Pennz Platinum ... the rest is all hydroprocessed GPIII dino ... pick an oil that has been proven to have the lowest wear metal analyses in your vis range in your area of the country, THEN if you want to look at upgrading the add-pack, for the "what-iffs" then so be it ... FWIW, if you want added zddp, buy a bottle of STP treatment, that's mostly what it is along with a huge dose of Vis improvers ... Then to say, as oils have advanced, it seems there is NO EXTRA wear protection in a daily driver by spiking with zddp ... unless you go beyond recommended drains ... because zddp levels have been pushed lower and lower, the blenders have found other additives and fluid technology to make up for it ... again, until you start really putting stress on bearing surfaces and spinning high rpms; then I want as much aw adds as I can get ... peace

My advice is follow the oil manufacturer's guidelines; I would ignore the DTC oil life monitor and just go by mileage, as RP recommends. RE: mileage, a very high quality 0W-30 oil is far better than a 5W-30 not only for mileage but performance as well, and in winter months I use 0W-30 in my SS and still have monster oil pressure. There are several independent lab studies on different brands of 5W and 0W oils and to my memory AMSOil 0W-30 and Mobile1 0W-30 scored very well. Mr. P. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I would fully agree with this statement if the ambient temps allowed the 0W to actually be thinner during a run cycle... however if ambient temps were nearly in the middle of each oil's recommended ambient range, then both being a true synthetic, 0w30 would not have any less measureable drag than a 5W30 synthetic ... In fact it is possible the 5W30 would allow for a better ring seal in a higher ambient range, to allow for less leak-down ... Basically what I am saying, priority one, protection, then ambient temps dictate viscosity ... if you meant "protection performance" I agree. but if you meant "power performance" I wanted to add a little ... Not to debate one iota ... but oils happen to be a passion and I study Tribology as a passtime ... Peace

GM should not have called it an "oil life monitor" ... They should have called it an "oil life calculator" --- "as long as you put in what we tested against the calculation, and told the EPA what we were gonna print in the manual" ... haha

If you are going to go by the RP recommendation, then why bother with the oil monitor? I don't get your question ... If you are going to run the oil 6,000 on 2 filters, then run the oil monitor the whole 6,000 to see how long you're going both ways ... FWIW, the oil monitor is a sophisticated algorithm (math equasion) that takes into account how you drive cycle the vehicle ... It looks at time ran, op temp and for how long, rpm, distance, iat, and a bunch of other things to estimate how long you can run a motor oil in the proper vis range (5W30 or 10W30) in a GF-4 rating ... Period The oil life monitor has no idea what oil or filter you use ... You have to put the recommended oil and filter on, and it assumes you have and then calculates based on the oil quality being GF-4 5W30 or 10W30 ... If you reset the monitor it assumes it is starting the algorythm over at zero with new oil and filter ... If you put a $10 M1 filter on it or a $1 STP, it doesn't care, if you put $10 a qt redline in it, or $1 a qt super tech in it, it will not base it's calculation of oil longevity on this ... help?

However on the order sheet it is supposed to have the KC4 as part of the NHT (VMax Performance Pack) !!!

On the RPO order sheet for the 2006 1500 series, there is NO RPO code for an external engine cooler ... Maybe that's why I don't see one ... http://eogld.ecomm.gm.com/NASApp/domestic/...ID=2194&type=0#

Nope ... KC4 would be the ext eng oil cooler

I wonder if I got jipped on my engine oil cooler? I don't see one @ the sending unit as I did on my LQ4 2004 HD Is it a different config on the LQ9? Is the RPO for external engine oil cooler NWP ? Let me know, because I don't see one on my truck ... The aux trans cooler is there however ... 11H

I have surmised a big part of mileage disparity in the GM Gen 3 from people has a lot to do with (aside from all the obvious reasons) is elevation ... If I take a trip from phoenix to yuma, I might get 17 if I'm lucky ... If I take a trip from phoenix to durango colorado, I crack 20 every time ... Cruise set to 75-80 both ways ... I have a good buddy who has an H3 and in his year or so of logging, he has come to the same conclusion ... ELEVATION ... 11H

4 mpg for amsoil swap front to back? WOW You should pick up another 2 or 3 doing the diffs and T case ...

look in the 4 sale section, I have a full B&B for cheap ...

Guys, what is the difference between these 2? They list # 15153 for the SS and # 15053 for the 6.0 1500 Is the SS kit different from the Vortec Max kit ? 11H

ok ... BACK FOR SALE ... has a new 4" rolled crome tip on it now and is on ebay ... Going with a dual outlet B&B as they are local and have a very very nice product in the dual pipe system! I won't link to it here, if you want it, just do an ebay search for B&B VHO or SS and it should come up ... full detailed description as well .. I used a couple of Kyle's pictures to show it's build ...

I'll take it ... Thanks

sold

OOPS, put this in the wrong section ... sorry

There you have it ... Brand new, never used, POLISHED AEM Brute Force cold air kit ... It will come with the 4 layer cotton gauze filter ... I have also a brand new AEM synthetic dry filter that I will throw in the box if you add $45 to the total ... I take paypal and have substantial business on ebay and with paypal ... Will be shipped FedEx to your door ... Fits all new body silverados with a V8 ... It is the one listed for the Silverado SS and 4.8/5.3 trucks ... You would know better than I what else it fits ... The reason I am selling it is I am buying a member's Volant ... There is NOTHING wrong with this kit, and I would recommend the cotton gauze filter for max power, and get the synthetic dry filter for the picky dealer trips ... Wholesale on the filter is $43, and aem is pretty proud of them so if you want it, get it from me ... Clicky For Picture 11H

Actually on the 2006 ... I believe it requires the ZX3 suspension (ride control) not the Z85 ... I will have to look, but I don't believe my truck has the Z85 RPO code as part of the Vortec max performance pack ... 11H

Chandler, AZ? --- I am in East Mesa ... Maybe we can work something out if you were not totally firm on the $220 ... I currently have a brand new polished AEM kit I bought for $160 and was planning on using that ... 11H