NolletSSS

The gravel road trick did not work when I had the OP's same problem. My truck just didn't have the stopping power to lock up the brakes even on a gravel/dirt road. I bled the brakes and bled them and bled them some more, with the same spongy pedal on the floor results. The only way you can firm up the brakes and get stopping power again is with a tech II or similar device (Snap-on) that will allow you access to run the self bleeding procedure for the anti-lock brakes. I ran the bleeding procedure about 9 times before I had a nice firm brake pedal again. Be sure to do one final bleed at all 4 corners again to get all the air-junk fluid that was pushed out of your anti-lock brake system. When you run the bleeding procedure you will hear the anti-lock brake system pump and the pedal will actually push you back into your seat. Run it as many times as it takes to get a firm pedal back and then run it again just for shits. If you take it to a shop to do it just make sure they don't stop after running it just once. It only takes a few minutes for the self-bleed to complete, and the only labor involved is to step and hold pressure on the brake pedal when commanded to do so. Fresh fluid is always a plus

I had the same issue of a spongy pedal, and i mean spongy. The brake pedal would be on the floor and my truck would hardly stop. I did a small upgrade to the brakes and changed the pads and bled the piss out of the system. The same issues remained and the pedal would be on the floor and the truck wouldn't stop. WTF!! I bled the brakes and bled the brakes and bled them some more with same results. Finally I hooked up a Snap-on Scan computer that gave me access to the ABS, did the ABS self bleed function and felt improvement but not the best. I ended up doing the ABS bleed with the Snap-on tool about 10 times and my brakes have never felt better. After you do the ABS bleed you do have to do one final regular bleed at all 4 corners again as it purges the air and crap out of your ABS and puts it back into the lines. Again if you want great pedal feel and pressure do the ABS bleed with a scan tool that can access your ABS system, and you may need to do it multiple times but the ABS self bleed only takes a few minutes. My brake fluid when I started this was also very dark green, so I do recommend changing brake fluid more often. Brakes on my truck: Baer Eradispeed (larger rotors with relocation brackets for stock calipers), SS brake lines and new master cylinder. Truck stops great now and pedal feels 1000 x better.

Just replace the stepper motors in the cluster, no need to buy a complete assembly. Less than 20 bucks and some free time is all you need

Happy Thanksgiving!!

GHOSTBUSTERS!!!

Its for the Auto temperature settings. Its a little fan that blows on a temp sensor, I believe its only used in vehicles equipped with the digital control head.

What do you guys think of Ravelco? http://www.ravelcosecurity.com/index.html Strong claims they have with a lifetime warranty. Reading the site it seems to be better than just installing a kill switch as without the plug it disables the PCM circuits...

I'm in for 2 Beanies and a Hat, PM sent

From what I understand c-clip eliminators are not for everyday street use. Although after looking at a c-clip rear end its crazy just how little holds the axels in. Moser and Strange both sell a kit, but Moser flat out states not for street use as the bearings will leak and fail with allot of side load (twists and turns on the street). Strange has a c-clip eliminator kit out that is designed for street/strip that uses tapered bearings and double seals that hold up beter to side loads but is a bit more $$. If you use your truck just for the track then mosers eliminator kit would be just fine and cheeper but given the choice I would go with the Strange street/strip kit. I dont know the size of bearing to answer your question tho.

Don't worry Sprayed they arnt coppies of HPM. The pictures sent and P/N search found out that they are just the Dorman fans P/N: 620-654. Probably find them cheaper at summit racing. I think I was looking at PCM of NC Trailblazer Spal kit before I ordered and thats why I was thinking they were Spal. The Trailblazer kit they have is of sheetmetal frame and look great so I was like WTF when I received pictures of the Dorman fans lol. I do have to send them back as the mounting brackets have snapped off during shipping. So Sprayed/Mr. P if you are ever going to make another batch of HPM fans I'm down to buying a set and get my money back from these dormans-Just a thought... Sry SSnewbee for running off topic, but id say if you do buy the dormans order from summit and then buy the harness or get the stuff to make your own harness as stated above. edit- What I paid and what summit lists them for are about the same price.

No pics, Im still in Afghanistan, I'll see if my wife can go in the garage unbox it and snap a few pics

The HPM e-fan kit from Sprayed and Mr P are second to none, seen a couple in person at a Dallas meet. Great kit and Danny/Steve are great peeps to work with. My efans also just crapped out (Not HPM) and now i kick myself for not purchasing the kit when I had the chance a few years ago (If you find a used HPM kit somewhere buy it). I just purchased a kit from PCM for less or now called PCM of NC INC, I have no idea what or how the kit looks/performs as I am overseas right now, but the kit does come with the larger Spal fans. I know Danny and Steve used Spal fans in the HPM kits so thats why I feel comfortable with the PCM of NC kit purchased. I can let you know next month how they are when I get home and get them installed.

Whats wrong with the back window? I wish GM still put the sliding windows in all the trucks or bring something out like the electric slide down one in the tundras. -GWLS

Sorry after going back and looking it was $16 on my old envoice but now they are selling them for $19. but the link is here edit: also to replace all of them you will need 7, not 6 as mentioned above.

Probably a good sign that its your stepper motors. Not that hard to replace either. I picked up all 6 from amazon for 12 bucks and refrenced the "how to" section on it. Just a total of a couple hours and my cluster was back in and working like new. If it turns out to be something other than the stepper motors then you are only out the 12 bucks, but you will have a known good cluster. On my truck it was the speedo and the fuel gauge that went out.

An Acura is a Honda its just there premium brand......funny video tho

I did a google search and came up with this: You outta try one or two things before you disconnect the pump. There may be a 'air pocket' that locks the impeller from spinning. Crack open an air relief valve on the pump as well as on top of the Filter Canister housing. If you hear 'hissing' sound, it means you have air trapped inside. Remove all air and try to turn it on again. If motor just 'humms' after you turn it on, one possibility is that the armature(set of wound-up coils inside motor) is stuck. Shut the breaker and try to turn it loose using vise-grip. If you can free it, turn on the breaker and turn on the power to test. If you cannot free it, bearings might be out. Then, it has to come out and either get rebuilt or replaced. Here are the steps to remove pump motor assembly: 1. Shut power down from disconnect box. 2. Close water shutoff valves(There're usually one right before pump, one right after heater unit and one on the bypass tubing-this is a smaller, usually 1 1/2" flex tubing that bypasses heater assembly for ozonators. 3. Drain water-Make sure water is completely drained from Pump and heater assembly. 4. Detach Pump inlet & outlet by turning counter-clockwise. 5. Unbolt motor from support plate. 6. Demate motor connector to control box. 7. Carefully remove pump motor assembly. It'll probably cost you around $100 to rebuild, pending your pump seal, housing & impeller are fine. My advice is not to shut spa down for 6 months to begin with. My sister made that mistake(actually she didn't turn it on for almost a year) and it ended up costing her dearly. Hope this helps...

I have four guys (that I know of) calling in sick tomorrow just to play all night....its crazy, I like the past games and all but to call in sick and miss out on $300 worth of pay is just stupid in my eyes....its just a game after all. I have played all the other titles on every console and by far the best has always been the computer version. For all you that do pick it up tonight and pull a "all niter" I wish the best for you haha. It will be a kick ass game tho

Like stated above you need to get rid of him. Hell everyone told you to get rid of him the last time you posted about him with the drama....I wouldn't have hesitated to give him the boot if he drove my truck without permission like the last time you wrote about him. Bob listen to all here...you write on this board for advice and I think you should take it. Your money, being a college student, obviously needs to get stretched to make ends meat so kick him out and post up a "roommate wanted" add around campus. You have the power to kick him out with everything being in your name....so do it! Oh and Happy Birthday man best of luck for you.

done....good luck

Hey I'll take the Ipod kit. Let me know how to get you the money. Paypall?

To bring up a semi old topic, I purchased the ARH 1-3/4" long tube headers with HF cats. When I ordered I called and talked to a guy named Nick (Project Manager of ARH) who told me that this system was designed and tested on an AWD 04 Silverado SS just like mine and that I wouldn't be disappointed. I had no problems at all installing these headers. I put the front end of the truck on ramps as that's all I have and the passenger side slipped in easily from the top. The drivers side I had to go in from the bottom and I did not have to take off anything as they slipped right in also. Both me and my buddy were surprised on how easy these things went in. I guess that my only complaint with these is that just like you Mr.P mine did not come with O2 extensions and I would of liked to see them come with some header bolts. I re-used my stock gaskets and bolts. The clearance of these headers is great all around. Everything bolted up without a hassle to my existing exhaust and overall I am greatly pleased with this system. I had no problems on installing these as mentioned in previous posts but then again I purchased the 1-3/4" system not the 1-7/8". I did not have to modify anything on my truck to fit these headers.

The two rear vents are connected to the drivers side. Mine will blow hot air on the drivers side and cold on the passengers every once in a while. I just turn the truck off completely, (as in removing the key and open a door to kill the accessory's) and then restart it and it seems to solve my problem. I think you have a different issue as you stated that yours will blow cold air at first and then get hot. Mine will only blow hot air when it is acting up. This is probably of no help to you but keep us posted if you find the solution.

Hey Chase I think you are in the wrong section for your personalized plate. I just went on the site you linked and am able to put in 7 after resetting the page

One day I will be back in Oregon. I grew up in Oregon City which is just south of Portland. Beautiful up there....miss it.