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Dyno Graph AEM Brute Force CAI


Meegs

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I like my Brute Force, but I have never owned the Outlaw nor have ever seen one inperson. But here are the Dyno graphs for HP and Tq to put a few questions to rest. Also the filter element is a DRY one which by default means there is no oiling to do.

 

http://trucks.aempower.com/pdf/dyno/21-800...0L%20Torque.pdf

 

http://trucks.aempower.com/pdf/dyno/21-800...0Horsepower.pdf

 

 

this is only a personal service announcemet. if you don't like the numbers go flame someone else...........

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can't believe you can say that with a straight face. the filter is in the innerfenderwell and scavages air from the wheelwell and not the engin so....It pulls air from 360* from the fenderwell and has a block off plate so no hot engin air gets contaminated with the cold air. Unlike other kits that have a small opening that have to "suck air" (resistance) from the fenderwell.

 

Oh and smartaz...I graduated NDSU with a degree in Civil Engineering and currentally work as the construction manager for 8 small citys that do not have there own engineering department. I have done bridge design before. After graduation i took my commission as a lieutenant in the 82nd ID airborne, airborne ranger infantry.

 

~So what was the purpose for your smartaz comment at the end??????

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can't believe you can say that with a straight face.  the filter is in the innerfenderwell and scavages air from the wheelwell and not the engin so....It pulls air from 360* from the fenderwell and has a block off plate so no hot engin air gets contaminated with the cold air.  Unlike other kits that have a small opening that have to "suck air" (resistance) from the fenderwell.

 

Oh and smartaz...I graduated NDSU with a degree in Civil Engineering and currentally work as the construction manager for 8 small citys that do not have there own engineering department.  I have done bridge design before.  After graduation i took my commission as a lieutenant in the 82nd ID airborne, airborne ranger infantry.

 

~So what was the purpose for your smartaz comment at the end??????

 

:dunno: Some people are a**holes, I guess.

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can't believe you can say that with a straight face.  the filter is in the innerfenderwell and scavages air from the wheelwell and not the engin so....It pulls air from 360* from the fenderwell and has a block off plate so no hot engin air gets contaminated with the cold air.  Unlike other kits that have a small opening that have to "suck air" (resistance) from the fenderwell.

 

Oh and smartaz...I graduated NDSU with a degree in Civil Engineering and currentally work as the construction manager for 8 small citys that do not have there own engineering department.  I have done bridge design before.  After graduation i took my commission as a lieutenant in the 82nd ID airborne, airborne ranger infantry.

 

~So what was the purpose for your smartaz comment at the end??????

First off, a "true" CAI would be totally enclosed in it's own box. This means basically a box with two holes in it. If there are multiple pieces to form that box, like maybe the hood, on like a K&N style intake, which the AEM seems to emulate, then it's not a true CAI intake. Second, if the box is metal, then it also doesn't qualify because the temperature of metal is easily changed by the ambient air temperature, like what may come from under the hood. A "true" CAI is made of a material that doesn't heat up.

 

I am glad that you are educated. I have a Bachelor's of Science degree myself, although I'm not sure what the point of posting that info was. Also glad you're in the military. We even have that in common.

 

The results they posted on their website may be correct for the vehicle that it was done on, but unless you were there when the dyno was done, no way to say for sure. Shorty headers claim 10-15hp with most manufacturers, but most of the time you only see about 8hp. All I was saying is that if they claim that much, doesn't really mean much unless it happened on your vehicle with you there. They can "claim" all they want.

 

Wasn't trying to be a smarta$$. But, still not sure of the point of your thread. Sounds as if you were debating with someone somewhere on here and decided to answer the debate, but decided instead to start a whole new thread. I assume it was due to the fact that someone was not very happy with theirs and decided to sell it? Only got that by your, "if you don't like the numbers go flame someone else.." comment.

 

So, who was trying to flame you when your post/thread was the first anyone was debating about how much/little hp the intake provided?

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So I finished my 648rwhp mustang and needed a tow vehicle. I got sick of open trailers and trucks that I was not sure if they would even make it home from the track. Hence my reasoning for the SS. I just got plain sick of cheap tow vehicles. So i decided to get rid my car that got an average of 30mpg and buy a truck as my daily driver and tow vehicle. OK on to the next point. In a previous comment somebody said the nOObs are irritable. you don't know me and I don't know you but i would not feel out of place saying i almost could guarantee I have built more hobby cars than most. Yup sure I have 20 some odd posts but fail to see where that affects the price of tea in China. So now if I can stop defending myself for a moment we could get back on track for the purpose of my comments. I work sun up to sun down and don’t feel like putting a bunch of effort into picking out bolt-on performance items that gain a hand full of rwhp at best. So I use the search button and do a little research of my own. From what I gathered I saw many saying the “Outlaw” is the only way to go. Cuz there was G-tech data to back it up. G-tech data!!! I might be the only one chuckling about that but I found it humorous. And on that same thread it was shown the Volant actually scored lower than the stock air box. Then comments were sparked when the Ram-Air fabricators chimed in. I guess I saw a bunch of banter going back and forth and all roads lead to the Outlaw as the ‘best of show’ but (almost) never any talk of the AEM or others.

 

And for the comment that plastic materials don’t “Heat Soak” is completely not true. Back 100 years ago in physics lab we did an experiment for ‘specific heats.’ The cliff notes for a 3 hour lab can be condensed to the following.

 

Find a metal chair. Take a temperature reading on the metal. Then ‘feel’ it with your hand. Find a plastic item. Take a temp reading on the plastic. Then ‘feel’ the plastic. All the temperature reading will be ambient temp. The metal will feel cooler and the plastic will feel warmer. This is due to specific heats of materials. Heat will flow from your hand to the chair. The result will be your hand loosing heat and thus the feeling of ‘cooler’ temps. Heat ONLY/always goes from Hot to Cold!!!! Myself as well as some of the ‘old timers’ will remember when (or we still do) throw a 5lb bag of ice on our intakes to drop the temps of them. They may even talk about “cool cans” which is a coffee can filled with ice and your fuel lines are wrapped around the ice for a few coils. If you think you need a plastic box with 2 holes in it to be a “True Cold Air Intake” then somewhere someone failed in teaching you the principals of physics.

 

End Meegs rant.

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was not trying to piss anyone off Meegs it just that maybe you could have worded your post a little diffrently it just sounded like you were trying to retalliat*spelling* against someone that said something bad about your intake when no one did. no hard feeling man let all just have a :cheers: and :chillpill: we are all friends here :thumbs::chevy:

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You need some thick skin to be around here. Many people joke on here. Stop taking everything so personal.

 

Dude, if you like the AEM that much, by all means strap it on and move on. I for one, will do what I feel I need to do for the most hp out of my truck, as I am sure you will. I will not squabble over 3-4hp anyway.

 

All you did to back up the claims of the AEM was post dyno results from their own website. Post some dyno charts taken by someone other than AEM and I'll give more credit to the claims. I certainly hope that in all your hoddy car building, you haven't judged what to buy/not to buy by the results posted on the manufacturer's website that you have purchased from.

 

I will agree to disagree on the plastic vs metal. If I put both items in the sun, I'll feel the heat on the other side of the metal, but would be surprised if you even felt warmth from the plastic on the opposite side. I guess your theories weren't observed by igloo cooler makers. Guess they should have been using metal all along. Coleman used to make some metal ones, but also used plastic to insulate them from the external heat from the metal. Oh well.

 

To each his own, I guess.

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lol yea....i don't want to E-fight anyone! I sometimes have problems communicating over the interweb. I guess it is hard to tell the 'tone' of peoples voices when all you can do is type. I guess I got intimate with the SEARCH button and congered up in my head the whole intake argument and got excited about the Brute Force. And kinda expected people to call FARSE on the graphs or try and nit-pick on the small details.

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the metal coolers had glass liners. also there is a very low R-value in single wall pipes.  which would be different than insulated igloo coolers!

 

i could be wrong but

you proved Benkey's point

the metal (metal chair) does transfer heat faster and better from one object to another (your hand)

and plastic does not .

 

so wouldn't be to say that under hood heat could transfer to

the cooler air (hot to cold) around the filter actually rasing the incoming air temp.

 

then plastic would resist the transfer of heat ? (insulate it from under hood temps.)From hot to cold or at least slow it down.

 

that's why besides weight decrease they make plastic intake manifolds to insulate the heat of the heads and engine away from intake manifold. (air temp)

 

dustyn

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