new cam

[sundowner]

Getting ready to install new cam I will be replacing pushrods as well as springs. Has anyone done this and can you get me some step by steps on this as well. Has been over 20 years since last time I attempted this. Would really appreciate advice/instructions/guidance/ etc. thx.

[zippy]

i could give some instructions, but benkey, slimsoftball, and big tex are probably who you're looking for with experience on this truck specificly.

[BenKey]

The first thing you need to do is to go to LS1howto.com and read the cam swap tech article. It's being done on a car, but it's all pretty much the same.

 

Some of the big things:

 

Don't waste your time on a cheap puller. You need a three jaw puller to get off the crank pulley.

 

Your condenser can stay in, there is room. The radiator can be lifted up out of the way if you have two people, but I found it easier to just take out.

 

Make sure you note the line up of the dots on the cam gear and the crank gear. They are dots - nothing else. There is a closeup of it on the LS1 how to article, but it is very hard to find on the crank gear.

 

Think you'll find just about everything you need to know there.

[slimsoftball]

They are dots - nothing else.

Thanks for rubbing it in Ben.

 

Sundowner, Ben is right, the article on LS1howto is very helpful. It really is pretty easy and straightforward. Changing out the springs takes the most time. My 6'4" frame and big hands makes it tough to get at alot of small spaces. Fumbling with those locks was a pain in the neck also.

 

Let me know if you run into any snags. I am sure Ben, BigTex or I can hook you up. I was just telling Ben the other day that since I made a mistake and had to do mine twice, I am pretty sure I could do it in a couple hours now. Good luck.

[BigTex]

Exactly what these guys said. The ls1howto.com site is a good reference.

 

Get a couple of extra magnets to help you on changing the springs. After compressing the spring, push down the retainer, and use the magnet to get the locks out. When reinstalling them, you can dip the lock in motor oil so it sticks to the valve stem and stays in place better.

 

Make sure that when you pull off the front cover that you rethread the crank bolt and turn the crank by hand until the dots are lined directly up. Then when you put the cam gear back on, just point the dot straight down.

 

I used two different types of spring compressors. I liked the lever bar compressor for removing the spring, but liked the screw type compressor to install the spring. This helped out since I could have the screw compresser loaded with the new spring before I took off the stock one.

 

When you are ready to start it up, let it idle for a minute or so and top off your coolant. For another minute or two, give it fluctuating light throttle from idle easing up to 2000 or so rpms then back down. Once it starts to reach operating temps, you'll need more coolant when the thermostat opens. Then when its finally warm and the coolant level is good, take it for a test drive.

 

Change you oil within the next 100 miles.

[sundowner]

Thanks guys...will check out sight. Do any of you feel necessary to

do new exhaust or shift kit right away (or anything else I am forgetting)? I know it will need retuned. wanting to get this in before allen comes end of jan. thx again

[BigTex]

I suggest you do any engine enhancing mods before the tune. A shift kit or servo can wait because it won't really affect the tune. Now doing some exhaust mods will help the engine breathe better, which increases performance. I'd do exhaust before the tune.

[Farmtruc]

Hey sundowner, great on the install, that's really gonna wake your SS up.

 

I may have missed your post on what cam you are installing, what were the specs again?

 

If you need any assistance, feel free to give me a ring or shoot me an email, I'd be glad to assist.

 

see ya soon,

 

allen