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I'm thinking of buying the tru cool cooler for my truck. i am leaning toward the 4590. i have also seen the other one with the bypass.(not sure of part number) which one is better? do you need to run the bypass? sorry if these questions have been asked, but i want to order one today. do they both hook up easy? and last question do the bolt into stock location without any problems. thanks bryan

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Yes this is a great improvement (the 4590 TruCool Max). the bypass is a great idea *exceot&* they've got theirs calibrated at 180-degrees and that's 20-degrees too hot, so don't use the bypass. Since you live up north plumb the cooler in series with the radiator ATF cooler so that the ATF will warm-up in cold weather, and in the winter you might have to take a small piece of tin and block off part of the TC to move the tranny temps up to 130-150 but run it and see. No it does not mount in place of the factory piece, but I am creating a mounting/plumbing kit for this cooler in our trucks (I am copying my own installation), I'm about 1/2-way done with the project so gimme until next week and I'll post some pics of what I come up with.

 

Mr. P. :)

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FYI, If you do a search in this forum you will find a ton of information on the Tru-Cool

 

That being said, it is my understanding that in the colder climates you will want the by pass but in the warmer ones, like where I live, you dont.

 

As far as install goes, I cant really help ya there

 

Damn Steve-O, ya beat me to the punch dude. I typed my response, hit post and your answer showed up before mine. HA!

 

Hurry up and complete the kit dude!

Edited by Champion201 (see edit history)
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...That being said, it is my understanding that in the colder climates you will want the by pass but in the warmer ones, like where I live, you dont...

Ideally, you DO want to run a thermostat (aka bypass), the problem is that Tru Cool has theirs too damned hot; if it was calibrated to 155 I would run it in a hearbeat - I took mine out and my tranny temps fell to 155 and my radiator/engine temps unexpectedly fell 15-degrees as well. AFA running too cold, the way around this is to use synthetic ATF so that it will still be 'watery' when less than 130-degrees - tranny fluid must be thin to operate the transmission correctly and Dexron-III is too thick when it's cold.

 

Mr. P.

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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I just had mine installed i like it alot however the inlets are very small and apparently you cant get an fittings to fit these type of rads i wanted to use custom braised lines it was at the shop and got the sad news but i have to admit i have the bypass on mine and it runs almost 20 degrees C cooler then the stock one.

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I'm thinking of buying the tru cool cooler for my truck. i am leaning toward the 4590. i have also seen the other one with the bypass.(not sure of part number) which one is better? do you need to run the bypass? sorry if these questions have been asked, but i want to order one today. do they both hook up easy? and last question do the bolt into stock location without any problems. thanks bryan

 

I just had mine (Tru-Cool Max w/o bypass) installed last week or so and thus far I haven't seen temps above 130F. I did add a TBTC though, that alone I was told will raise temps 20F so I opted for the Max and synthetic fluid :cheers: .

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i might just wait now because mr. p might be coming out with a complete kit. i think i will hol out for that and just bolt it right in.

Since you spilled the beans :idiot: yes I will confirm, I am copying/refining the installation kit from my truck for sale, I will announce it as soon as I get a couple of volunteers to try it out & verify fit/finish as well as write-up the instructions. The initial product will use steel lines (just like factory) because it's more durable in the long run and costs a whole lot less.

 

SLYDER - don't know what to tell you man, 10-mins shopping through scummit racing I was able to come up with the following list to make transmission cooler lines that will adapt an aftermarket core having 3/8" inverted flare fittings to the stock 3/8" lines:

 

(2) SUM-2200077 3/8" tubing compression x -6 AN Male Adapter Fitting, Aluminum Red/Blue @ $7.95 ea.

 

(2) SUM-220687 Female -6 AN to -6 AN Hose Fitting, 90-degree Aluminum Red/Blue @ $13.95 ea.

-or-

(2) SUM-220690 Female -6 AN to -6 AN Hose Fitting, Straight Aluminum Red/Blue @ $4.88 ea.

 

(1) SUM-230606 -6 AN Braided Stainless Steel Hose, 6 ft. Length @ $24.95 ea.

 

(2) SUM-220667 -6 AN Male to 5/ 8-18 in. Inverted Flare Adapter Fitting, Aluminum Blue @ $4.95 ea.

 

(2) BSP-68220 Billet Hose Separator @ $11.75 ea.

-or-

(1) MFY-2052211 Black Nylon Hose Clamps, set of 3 @ $16.39

-or-

(1) MFY-2052212 Blue Nylon Hose Clamps, set of 3 @ $16.39

-or-

(1) MFY-2052213 Red Nylon Hose Clamps, set of 3 @ $16.39

-or-

(1) SUM-G1883 Insulated Adell clamps, set of 10 @ $8.95

 

So $70-100 depending if you want to go mild or wild. Or you can do what I did and get it mounted in the truck with steel lines, a tubing bender, and compression unions for $15.

 

Mr. P. :)

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Since you spilled the beans :idiot: yes I will confirm, I am copying/refining the installation kit from my truck for sale, I will announce it as soon as I get a couple of volunteers to try it out & verify fit/finish as well as write-up the instructions. The initial product will use steel lines (just like factory) because it's more durable in the long run and costs a whole lot less.

 

Im waiting Trans is cookin!

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