Silverado2469 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Ok so obviously 6.0. I get it. But cheapest 6.9 I can find is 1100. I find 5.3's for 300~ all day long. I can then buy a rebuild kit for it. With dome pistons to bump up CR. and have a brand new motor for 1000~. A mild cam like a comp 218/222 .560/.570 (I can't remember the exact cam, but this is close to the spec). Ported 862 heads, bigger valves, etc. and have a 400 rwhp truck easily. For around 2k and since I have a 5.3l the swap would be a 100% swap no changes at all. And can pass the CA smog. OR. I can buy a 6.0. Hopefully find one for 800. Or so. A rebuild kit about 700-900$. So that's about 1600$. And that's a 325-345 BHP. so around 280-300rwhp. A mild cam. Like a TR220. Or something like that. And hand port the stock 317's. and get 400rwhp. For 2000+ for a brand new 6.0. And possibly CA smog issues. What do you guys. What's the easiest route for 400rwhp. N/A. Was going to go turbo. Had a kit lined up. But it fell through. So I decided I'm just gonna do a mild motor build to learn more on how motors work, and have the experience of building one. Motor will be built on an engine stand if that matters. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 The easiet route for 400RWHP is a decent cam, cylinder heads, full exhaust and a tune. You dont have to get crazy with compression.... Will you be doing all the work, or having a machine shop match up bearings and clearances for you, then doing the rest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverado2469 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Can I match bearings, and clearance myself? Never built a motor before, I'd like to do everything myself. (All that I can) so are you saying to stay with the 5.3. Or go 6.0? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 You can make well over 400hp using a 6.0 with just a cam, headers, and a great tune, you dont' even need cylinder heads.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 If you plan on building a motor, bigger is always better in the long run and you wont kick yourself later for not going larger. I have built several motor myself, and I leave the clearancing etc to the machinist. I normally let them assemble the shortblock as well, I would rather have them find a issue than trying to figure out why something isnt right when the motor is running. Talking to your local machinist is a good idea anytime and they can give you better options and benefits of doing something one way over the other. I would go with the 6.0. You also have to ask yourself what other future plans you might have for the engine? If you think you will say add a supercharger, Nitrous etc later on, building the platform for that future plan is necessary. If you dont then you might have to do the motor build all over again to support the future mods and have the motor perform the best. Building a engine isnt just buying parts that will fit it... Every part has to work in combination with each other to make power and not hurt it. Its literally a science and takes sometime and thought to make it work and perform. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverado2469 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Ya I don't plan on having it done for a few months. And I probably will go with a 6.0. I'm really hoping a junk yard will have a used 6.0. Lq4 or lq9 doesn't matter ill be rebuilding it either way. So I will decide on piston choice then. How much is it normally to get the short block assembled? An estimate is fine until I can contact a machine shop to ask about pricing. I figured with a cam, tune, headers a 6.0 should be close to 400. But that's probably an aggressive cam? I do plan on throwing nitrous on it probably somewhere between a 75-100 shot. Only on track days. And if I don't have to do heads that would be awesome. I may by a short block. And buy a set of 243 heads. And then but the intake for it. Do you guys recommend electric water pumps, and everything else? Or the stock stuff is better for a DD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) Ya I don't plan on having it done for a few months. And I probably will go with a 6.0. I'm really hoping a junk yard will have a used 6.0. Lq4 or lq9 doesn't matter ill be rebuilding it either way. So I will decide on piston choice then. How much is it normally to get the short block assembled? An estimate is fine until I can contact a machine shop to ask about pricing. I figured with a cam, tune, headers a 6.0 should be close to 400. But that's probably an aggressive cam? I do plan on throwing nitrous on it probably somewhere between a 75-100 shot. Only on track days. And if I don't have to do heads that would be awesome. I may by a short block. And buy a set of 243 heads. And then but the intake for it. Do you guys recommend electric water pumps, and everything else? Or the stock stuff is better for a DD? A average price on line hone and assembly is about $800. That is you already having everything needed and the block hot tanked, cleaned inspected and ready to be assembled. 400 HP to the wheels with a cam, exhaust and a tune would be a with a decent sized cam. You have to remember that making the power isnt that bad, its going thru the AWD system driveshafts, differentials, the trans and the wheels. Heads arent needed to get to your goal, just heads and a decent cam can get you there. Since your building the motor, its better to get the nitrous pistons, rings and a nitrous cam. While your in there get some rods as well, along with ARP bolt hardware. Im not going to lie to you, the smallest build will get pricey. Especially with all that rotational mass and nitrous you want it to hold up under load. I built a small 383 Stroker for one of my camaros, the motor wasnt anything extreme. It was a carbed motor and SBC parts in that generation are on the cheaper side and I spent 10K with me assembling it and tuning it myself. Edited March 19, 2013 by Blown 346 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverado2469 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) I have a 4x4. Not AWD. I'm a RCSB. But ya I know it's gonna be pricey but I figured under 3k. Or around 3k for 400hp. 6.0 complete engine. From pick your part. 300+ taxes. 40$ core charge. Lq9 rotating assembly. Is 800. That's 1200 for a complete lq9 6.0. With my headers. And exhaust. I'm expecting 300 to the wheels. Easily. Now if I get done pistons. Out compression from 10:1 to 11:1. I'd guess a gain if 20 hp. So that's 320-350 rwhp. A mild cam like a tr220. Or a comp 218/222 ill be at or above 400. Right? So: 1200-complete block 11:1 on 91 octane. Install is free. Comp cams run about 300. Stings, pushrods another 300. So for around 2200~ I can have my 400 horsepower goal with cam, headers, 6.0block. With a 60e. That's without the cost of honing the block, balancing the assembly, etc. so lets say 2600 total install and that's 400 rwhp. Does this sound crazy? Or is that a realistic goal? Obviously something's may come up. And price may change. But I feel like that's realistic. That is of course if the junkyard has a complete 6.0. All of there motors are 300+ tax. Edited March 19, 2013 by Silverado2469 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 I would say over $3000. cams alone are closer to $400, Pushrods are $100 to 110. Gaskets, fluids, You will be over $1,500 just with machining, hot tanking and inspecting the block, line hone, shortblock install. Thata half your budget. A normal cam swap with just parts is about $1,200 without install. By getting domed pistons you then have to worry about valve to piston clearance even if the pistons are fly cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 :pop: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverado2469 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Ok. So I think to save money. Gonna try and find a 6.0. With lowish miles. Then just put a cam in that. Get as close to 400 as I can with stock heads, bottom end, etc. and start saving up to pull that motor. Drop the old 5.3 in it again. And build the 6.0 into a 427 stroker. And call it a day. So I forget his name but the guy said he has a guy who can get me a lq9 for 1500. Cam is another 1200~ that's 2700~ and should bet close to 400 rwhp. Maybe not as close as I want it to be. But close enough till I get more funds to build a 427 stroker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 I myself wouldnt use the LQ9 to build a 427. I dont think you will have enough metal between the water jackets. Only sonic testing the block will tell you. You will need cylinder sleeves. The best bet would be to go with a LS3 LS7 block. Others have done it, but would it be a little easier to do it with a LS3 or LS7 etc, Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverado2469 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 Ok. I thought to get a 427 it's .060 over? I was assuming .060 over wasn't that much to take out. If it is. Then ill just do the 408 like people do with these motors. Either way. That seems to be a better idea. To save money now but still give me some decent power to keep me "happy" for a little while. Haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 My buddy wanted to do the same thing with his LQ9. The machinist said he hasnt seen a LQ9 pass the sonic testing to go as large as a 427. It can be done but I think you will spend more doing it with the LQ9. Yes .060 over would make the LQ9 a 427. A good 408 build can make just as good power as a 427. if you want a 427 Go with the LS3,LS7 or Save for the LSX block. You can even go as far as a 454 if you wanted to. I have also seen people go with a 422 C.I. with the LQ9. I know going with the 427 and either boosting it or using N20 the block isnt as strong. You can go with the 422 or a 418. There are other possibilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverado2469 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) Ok that makes sense. I know I've seen some serious numbers come out of these 408 motors. And can easily be made to have over 600 I'm sure. So ya I think I'll buy a lower mileage lq9. Cam it. Headers exhaust, CAI. Call it a day. Then. Save up. Build the trans, transfer case, beef up the 10 bolt a little. Then build a 550-600 HP 408. Thanks a lot for all the help. This is a hard thing to decide on. Just a week ago I was going to just turbo this 5.3. But the guy seems sketchy. So I don't trust it. So I decided to just to build a motor. Now what can to run, it's gotta be able to be smog legal. In CA. And I only wanna spin the motor to maybe 6200. I'm thinking the Vinci trucker cam. 216/222-115 (I forget the lift. I think it's like 56x/57x) would be a nice cam, would keep torque low, and spin right around 6200-6500 max. But is that big enough to get me close to the 400 mark? I think the TR224 wouldn't be a bad cam, but i think that would take to much torque away? i I plan on just putting the I6 TC behind the 6.0 to stall around 2800. And I don't think that's enough stall for the tr224 to be super happy with it. But I could be wrong. Any tips on what cam? Edited March 19, 2013 by Silverado2469 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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