Jump to content

STS Turbo Guys


GEAR M UP

Recommended Posts

On stock cubes, I'd stick with the GT67. It makes good power and spools up very quickly on the 6.0 -- you'll be at max boost at 3k rpm. It's very streetable.

 

If you drop some more cash on the block, the GT70 with .96 A/R is where its at.

 

I think I'd want to do pistons at the least -- a nice set of 9:1 diamonds would do the trick. Heck, you'll have the heads off anyway borg_assimilation_faces.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

your gonna work on ya 6.0 also?!!! WTH u must be made of money!!! either that or ur slangin dope again arent you :nono: ... forget that turbo! christmas is comin up... and it would be nice if you spread a little christmas joy to the guys with the stock ss's. wutchu think bout that? :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rods and pistons.

 

Not sure how the GT-67 would preform over the GT-70 when it comes to bigger cubes. Not even sure how the GT-70 performs with bigger cubes, because mine is still not on and may be a while out still. My motor is coming back out this weekend - probably, now that it's home from Jacksonville.

 

The GT-67 would do pretty good, I'm sure, with say a stroker, but your boost numbers could be somewhat limited due to the higher air demands of the bigger motor. Plus, the GT-70 should be able to put you in around 15lbs of boost for a 408ci, which if it's "built", it can handle that and more. So, the logic is, at least in my mind, if it can handle it - get it. The cost difference is pretty minimal, if not non-existent. I know the upgrade was $800, but the GT-67 is also a upgrade. Maybe $200 difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm with Erik. Stick with the GT67 on stock cubes. Lower your compresion to about 9:1 and make sure your rings are setup up for high HP with FI.

 

I'm not sure what the hell I am dynoing nowadays but going by trap speed and raceweight I wuold have been in the 530-550rwhp range in my 5.3L, 8.5:1 CR setup on 14.5psi... You 6.0L guys should be able to top that NP, especially with goo dpistons and rods and rod bolts. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hit 580 calc. fwhp at 7.5 psi on the GT67 -- that is street tuned and uncooled as well (not even meth). Its a calculated number and is partially based on a MAF that is maxed out, so take with a grain of salt. The HPT guys swear the calculation is within 5% of their dyno on their car. Dunno what that's really worth though. I haven't been on the dyno.

 

Rick Squires told me that the GT70 with .96 AR is a good combo for a 408. Should hit full boost at around 3400rpm and support up to 850 fwhp. He suggested not going bigger because of the lag -- the GT42 came on in his 396 at around 4500rpms.

 

On stock cubes, the GT70 is probably too much. You'd most likely not see full boost until 4 or 4.4k.

 

I'll be able to tell you numbers on the 408/GT70 hopefully by the middle of Dec. That is, if I can find a dyno...

 

I won't be getting numbers on the stock cube/GT67 setup. Lost my TCC lining... Since the tranny is coming out again, I'm just doing the build up early.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hit 580 calc. fwhp at 7.5 psi on the GT67 -- that is street tuned and uncooled as well (not even meth).  Its a calculated number and is partially based on a MAF that is maxed out, so take with a grain of salt.  The HPT guys swear the calculation is within 5% of their dyno on their car.  Dunno what that's really worth though.  I haven't been on the dyno.

 

Rick Squires told me that the GT70 with .96 AR is a good combo for a 408.  Should hit full boost at around 3400rpm and support up to 850 fwhp.  He suggested not going bigger because of the lag -- the GT42 came on in his 396 at around 4500rpms.

 

On stock cubes, the GT70 is probably too much.  You'd most likely not see full boost until 4 or 4.4k.

 

I'll be able to tell you numbers on the 408/GT70 hopefully by the middle of Dec.  That is, if I can find a dyno...

 

I won't be getting numbers on the stock cube/GT67 setup.  Lost my TCC lining...  Since the tranny is coming out again, I'm just doing the build up early.

I guess I have two questions. Is this the FLP build that needs to come out? I thought I read you had it put in. And, what is the TCC lining? Never heard mention of that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I have two questions.  Is this the FLP build that needs to come out?  I thought I read you had it put in.  And, what is the TCC lining?  Never heard mention of that.

 

Yep, it's the FLP. The clutch lining on the TC is what we think fragged but Chuck and Chuck (local and FLP) think it was a manufacturing issue at this point. The other possibility is something aluminum in the TC fragged. The TC is coming out and FLP will diagnose it and PI will build a new one based on that. Since there is junk in my current trans fluid, Chuck says I need a new one under warranty -- so I'm getting my old tranny back. The good news from the whole mishap is that Chuck@FLP has developed some billet parts since he did my L5 and will be putting them in the new build.

 

It went last Sunday, but I didn't really know what was up until Wednesday, and its still kinda guess work (but guess work by those two experts) until Chuck@Allpro gets the tranny and TC out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear that. I know the guys at FLP will treat you well though. any idea what the billet parts are, their names? Just curious. I'm waiting for the billet drum, that has multiple pins going through a hardened input shaft. Or, welded together, I don't care which. Then it's wait and see what else breaks further down the line and then do the same for it. Seems like it would be so simple to make a 4L60 that could handle nearly as much as a 4L80. The problem is the cheapness of the parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...