Jeff B

I was actually considering making one from fiberglass building on the stock one.

I have called 7 or 8 places and the closest thing to working is Axiom in Tacoma. They have a Dynopak? hub dyno so wheelbase doesn't matter. But they don't have the hub adapters for our 6 lug hubs. I wonder how much those adapters cost? Maybe we can get enough local SSS guys to go in on a set or something.

Was it double sided tape or was it actually glued on?

Thanks. I'm not sure what I am doing with a shift kit, yet. My local guy that is a well respected 4L60E/65E builder for F-bodies recommends billet servos, accumulator and a vacuum modulator. From talking with him he has done some work with local AWD SSS's also.

Thanks, I did a search before I posted and saw that list. Neither place in WA can do our long wheelbase.

How does the stock tailgate spoiler/cap attach to the tailgate? How does the Intimidator spoiler attach?

Am I supposed to be looking for a TBSS converter or the one for the 6 cylinder?

Progressive means that as you compress the spring or twist the torsion bar, the stiffness goes up the more you compress or twist. That makes for a soft ride over little bumps, but the suspension stiffens up when you really push it and the suspension compresses more. Usually the coils will be closser together on one end of the coil. Linear means the spring compresses at the same rate over the entire compression. This makes for a solid feel all the time. Pretty much all torsion bars are linear. You would have to have tapered torsion bars to make then progressive. Most manufactures use progressive springs and nearly all competition uses linear springs. If you remove the stops then your truck will be linear in the front, but probably too soft. You could probably compensate for this with large sway bars or stiffer torsion bars.

Where are you guys getting your trailblazer torque converters? Part numbers? Price? Thanks

Anyone blown a stock transmission with just CAI and full exhaust?

Its supposed to sit on the bump stops. The torsion bars are not progressive, so to make the suspension progressive it uses the twist of the torwion bars and the squish of the bump stop.

Thanks for the reading. Looks like I'll keep looking for a 4 wheel dyno.

Can you drop the front driveshaft for dyno runs without damaging anything? What are the risks?

Are shift kits interchangeable between the 60 and 65?

Whats the difference between the 4L60E, 4L65E and 4L80E. Do they all work with the AWD transfer case?

Anyone know of an AWD dyno in the Seattle area that can do our trucks?

According to their website: "Our mufflers flow very high CFM, and they sound crisp, sharp, & aggressive." The mufflers don't neck down like the old sidepipes did so they are pretty much straight through. I see what you are saying about the louvers, but I seriously doubt my stock LQ9 really needs dual 3" pipes all the way back. I'm not saying I'd see high gains from these, but I don't think they would cause a loss in power at all.

Because the local GM dealer tried to sell me a non SS bracket and couldn't find the part number for the SS one. I have had nothing but bad luck with them and parts in the past as well.

Title says it all, let me know if you have one.

Are the shocks a pair or a set of 4? What do you want for them?

I don't know if they are directional, but the muffler you listed is a single in and dual out. EDIT: OK, I just looked at the Magnaflow website and they are reversible. It will fit fine.

I have chambered exhaust on my corvette and would love something like that on the SSS. Sounds like the old sidepipes from the 60's. Does anyone have them on their truck? Here is what the corvette sounds like with them. Corvette Chambered Exhaust The corvette has a 5.7 LS1 and no cats so the SSS should sound the same, but a little quieter. Here is what I am thinking, running two 3" diameter 30" long mufflers downstream of the cats and either side exit in front of the wheels or dual side exits in the stock location. The only thing I don't like is they aren't stainless. http://www.classicchambered.com/

Look under your truck and notice the big ass bars running back from the lower control arms. Near the end of each torsion bar, you will see a bolt hanging down. It will be backed out a little bit. Loosen it to lower the truck and tighten it to raise it.

No, you are only adjusting ride height. The torsion bar still has to twist the same amount for the same bounce and rebound.

Ahh, the Michigan. I did 6 years on that boat before the conversion.