WantaSSS

yep got a racetronix wiring kit already. I bought a holley fuel regulator and am not sure if I am going to do rails right now. I say that because I might go with a different intake in the near future so doesnt make sense if for some reason the rails wouldnt work well with the different intake.

Hey all.. I am up grading my fuel system. I am curious how much length I need and what is a good start for fittings ? Going -8 feed and using the old supply as the return. Using a walbro 450 intank and will be modifying the bucket. Just looking for a good starting point for lenth of fuel line and what types and qty's of fittings I should start with? thanks

they fit.. just inside the bed sides under the tailgate. This means you see the "cut away" portion from the cladding. But if it was me I would at minimum buy one of those hitch steps the fit in the receiver.

Didnt check your original post... but did you have a tech come out and fix the original problem? or are we still talking about the problem itself?

If you go with a stall, a large trans cooler is a must. I wouldn't worry about a stall until you have at minimum a shift kit and servos done. But even with a mostly stock engine they help a lot.

It will get a tune fo' sho I see what you did there.... Lol. Nice ride.

That's definitely in the ballpark. You must keep in mind there is naturally a markup on the part and it isn't just labor you have work comp. Insurances, tools , van to maintain, ect. that the company has to pay for . Glad you got it fixed!

Exactly what Sanders said. Hope you get it sorted out. Let us know

Dang just saw this I would of scooped this up in a heartbeat! Where did you have it made and do you think they could make another one?

Fix the defrost board/ sensor and the unit will go into defrost and melt itself. That is how it is designed. It reverses refrigerant flow and heats up the outdoor unit thus melting the ice/snow on it. Like I said I am sure your unit was already running the aux. heat because of the cold weather you are having to keep temp in the house. HVAC is what I do for a living.

sounds like you have a bad defrost board/ sensor in the unit outside. Also it isnt really efficient in that type of weather to run that type of heat pump. I am pretty confident that your system was already running the electric heat to keep up.

nice.. welcome! from a fellow MN SS'er

I personally wouldnt bumper tow anything over about 2000. Get at least a class 3 hitch IMO. Other than that it will do it.. just like others said leave plenty of room for stopping.

Being in the TC's we have e85 most places... and yeah I got a walbro 450 pump waiting to go in.

Turbo in the works went with 80's because was thinking of possibly running e85

Sinr..yeah I would be interested. Thanks

I bought tall 80# dekas to go on the stock intake. From what I am reading I just need to make some spacers and get longer mounting bolts?. Or should I get short injectors? Already have the multi to ev1 adapters for the current injectors . Thanks

Alright ... back to report in... ON Saturday I pulled the other head. The motor turns freely. no "lumps" or hitches in the movement. I stood back and started thinking why this could happen. Nothing was in the motor but when I put the head gaskets on it "locked" up. I started looking at part numbers when I realized the head gasket set sent to me by summit was for a regular silverado ie 4.8/5.3 engine. When I called summit originally to ask what was in the kit then order it they never asked me what engine size. So part my fault for not double checking. So to sum it up head gaskets for a 4.8/5.3 do not work on a 6.0 . I called summit and explained what must of happened and they said they would send out new ones since it was part their fault. I was surprised. thanked them a bunch. So now I am waiting to get head gaskets so I can get this thing back together. Hopefully you guys dont bash me too bad. I know I should been more careful in inspecting the parts themselves and learned a lesson here. Thanks again all for the replies.

I rotated it after pulling all rockers and push rods and it still would not turn over I pulled the drivers side head and then the motor would rotate I did not see anything that would hinder the ability for the motor to rotate I'm kind of stumped as to why it happened in the first place . Not Sure what that means. Should the motor rotate pretty easily with all valve train out abd plugs out ? Does it make sense about at the bottom of any piston stroke it takes some (nothing crazy) pressure to get it to turnover ?

alright everyone I pulled the drivers side head and now I can rotate it around completely seems like a little bit of a lump at the bottom of the piston stroke should just be the rod rotating back around. No items in cylinders or lifter area. but other than that seems free to spin around. Going to order one matching gasket. What do you all think? Oh I forgot to add I have arp head bolts so they just paid for themselves.

Didnt shotgun it.. I had the rockers on loosely and was rotating to get the #1 cyl. to TDC per the instructions I found on lst. Thats when it rotated a bit but stopped. I am going to try to get to it tonight possibly. if not tomorrow for sure. Are the MLS head gaskets reusable? or should I order some new ones if I have to take the heads off again? thanks for the input guys!

Ill take the rockers off and pushrods out and try again and get back to you all. I had the heads off for about 2 weeks. I dried all coolant out of cylinders and then sprayed them down with wd 40 to make sure no rust happened. The heads are completely drained so no coolant got into cylinders when remounted. Plugs were out when trying to rotate. I am now thinking maybe a pushrod out of place. Motor was running perfectly before tear down.

since I have owned it the engine has never been open. I would think that even if there was a tool inside it works rotate more thana quarter turn. I agree in the rust.. no evidence of rust as far as I could see when I reassembled .

Alright everyone. Long story short... hopefully. I am going turbo on my truck and the infamous bolt in the head was broken. This lead to pulling the head. I pulled both because I was thinking of going L92s but didnt. Put the heads back after getting broken bolt out. Have the spark plugs out and rockers all loose and the motor will only turn over about 1/4 turn? know some guys dont like it but am using a breaker bar/socket on the crank bolt. I turned it clockwise (looking from front end) and it went a little and stopped. turned it counter clockwise and it stopped about the same distance. I went back clockwise and it stopped again same distance about 1/4 turn. I tryed to budge it by giving it a little more and wont move past the stopping point. Is it possible rust set in that fast? I lubed the cylinder walls with wd in between. Hopefully no rust. If I pull the heads again will I need new gaskets again?(obviously never been ran/heated up) thanks for your time everyone.