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jtmarine02

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Posts posted by jtmarine02

  1. I finally decided to replace all filament bulbs with Blue LED's and upgraded my High's & Fogs with 10000K HID kits. Tell me what you guys think!

     

    I upgraded all interior lighting to blue LED bulbs:

    Here are my Map and Dome lights.

    post-14492-097645500 1306291920_thumb.jpg

    Here are my courtesy door lights in Blue LED.

    post-14492-007242600 1306291985_thumb.jpg

     

    Here is my mirror courtesy lights in Blue LED.

    post-14492-082644400 1306292117_thumb.jpg

     

    Here is the light output of my Blue LED DRL's.

    post-14492-041091800 1306292184_thumb.jpg

    post-14492-070491100 1306292202_thumb.jpg

     

    More pics continued on the next reply...

  2. Nice Kill!:pepsicheer:

    my buddy seen that i just bought my ss fresh from iraq, so had to go and one up me, with the harley davidson edition, real nice truck super charged.... we'd drink together and talk our $hit, about who would win, and well it finally happened... didnt stand a chance, killed em. i have no mods yet either. however wheatley tune en route...

  3. Hey man I see your running LED bulbs on your high beams. Did you need to install an inline resistor or just plug and play? I'm thinking about installing some on my DRL and turn signals, I know you need a resistor for the blinking function to work but wasnt sure about the regular lighting function...?

    The DRL's are a 4114. Same as the 3157, they just don't run as hot....there is a easier and cheaper way to get the same look. White LED's are close and they have them as replacement bulb. The other benefits are they run cooler and last way longer. Kinda gives it that new Audi look :wink:

     

    Got mine on ebay for around $38 ...link

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4114-Hyper-...sQ5fAccessories

     

    post-19289-1259977916_thumb.jpg

    post-19289-1259977943_thumb.jpg

    post-19289-1259977956_thumb.jpg

    post-19289-1259977971_thumb.jpg

  4. That schematic helped a bit! Where did you get it from? I also would like to get a hold of the one for the guage console circuit card if at all possible. It turned out my TBC 2A fuse was not making good contact and TBC 2B fuse was blown. The 2B fuse was blown at the point under the plastic piece where I couldnt see that it was blown; I had to test it to realize it was blown... The fuses caused my dash, HVAC, steering wheel controls, dim switch, cargo lamp switch, and air bag switch to barely come on. If I removed my cargo lamp switch, no lights would work. I didnt check all the fuses since the damn truck's manual is so vague! But now I've got it, thanks. Oh and if you could get me the one for the gauge cluster CCA it would be awesome.(Circuit Card Assembly) My light for my trans guage doesnt get power to it and neither does the cruise control light. I would like to troubleshoot it to fix it and save 300.00 dollars.

    That wasn't hard...

  5. Yeah I'll start there at the dimmer switch. I've PM'd another member who has the output diagram necessary to test the BCM. Hopefully he helps me out and it's something before that.

    No worries.

    K, so for interior lights, two wires seem to handle the lights,

    The brown/white is a positive interior light wire, should go from 0-12volts with the dimmer

    And the orange/black is a negative dimmer wire that goes from open to ground with the dimmer all the way up.

     

    Course I think the bcm controls the lights after the switch, but testing that should be first you'd think...right?

  6. Did you happen to find out which wire in general grounded or which 50 Amp fuse blew?

    well after my $330 bill i found out it was a bundle of wires that some how got in the way of the e-brake as it comes back up. the wire got cut and grounded out blowing a 50amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Not as much as I was expecting to pay, but not cheap either. Thanks for the help guys. Gary

  7. I ended up figuring it out after staring at the board for a while and comparing it to pictures that were on the "how-to" write up. It turns out, when my bud replaced the LED next to the RPM Tach, he over heated that electrical run and blew 2 Zener Diodes. I'll take a pic and post it tomorrow, but for now just know that they are the last 2 DIRECTLY under main conector pins on the far right. These happen to control the voltage regulation to that motor and possibly more components that share that run. As for which others,well that I'm not sure of; I would need schematics to figure that out. Well if any one ever runs into this or any other similar problem with their components in their dash cluster circuit card, refrence this or send me a message. I'll try and help you as much as I can. I fixed Electronics down to component level in the Marine Corp for 5 years, so I'm remembering this stuff the more I deal with it again. Plus If I get stuck I just ask old Marine buddies who worked with me and continue to do that type of work.

    :dbanana:

  8. Chase,

    I'd be willing to buy that but let me further troubleshoot it a bit more indepth. Ive isolated that switch and the lights still dont work with that switch removed from the circuit. However, once re installed they work, but faintly. I have the stock switch that only has the cargo lamp switch and when I use that It does the same thing... Now to find the electrical schematic, any Ideas where I can locate that? I'm going to search the web but if anyone knows, let me know.

  9. Yeah, I have the Stock one that doesn't include the fog switch and it is still does the same. Also, what trips me out is the fact that with a switch in the circuit it works barely, but without a switch no lights period... That wasn't the case before this incident. Thanks for your input man. I appreciate any of it, I've got tunnel vision from thinking on the matter for a while.

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