2003_SuperSport

If your dropping the tranny for the converter you might as well change out the reaction shell for a beast one and put in some kevlar bands with some eagle clutches... and if you do all that you might as well put in some billet shafts, new reverse drum, and all new seals and you'll pretty much have a level four or five trans for under 2K if you did all the labor yourself... Thats what I did... I fried my stock clutches and reverse drum and bands and replaced everything with updated parts, rapter servos, transgo full reprograming kit and a 3000 stall which I thought would be fine since I have a roots blower making more low end torque, with the exception of shafts (douh I regret not replacing the shafts while it was apart)... BUT!!!! it has worked perfectly for over 3K so far...

I have always heard never manual shift as the CPU is designed to shift better and faster, and always race in 3rd so you don't burn up your OD clutches... I used to always run my truck in D with a maggie and servos and fried my clutches and reverse drum and bands... rebuilt with better parts and started racing by putiing in 3rd and no problems so far

Anyone know the size rims and what size tires those trucks are running? I kinda really like those daytonas and the white letters and the more I look at it the more I want it LOL... I know Daytona's runup to 17" but whats on these trucks? I think a 17" with a fat slick style tire with white letters would look and perform awesome plus less mass for quicker times? My rims are ugly but came with the truck in 2004 and the dealer didn't have the stockers and the truck only had 27K on it, so I am always looking but I dont want stockers either...

I love the look of the tires and white or yellow lettering... I've considered doing 18" Daytona rims and white letters... I think it would be BA... The bumper is hideous but give the guy credit on the 90's tailgate theme sporting to the world of tuners and ricers in Japan that he drives American and proud of it. CHEVROLET!!! is all those ricers see as he blows buy them LOL....

Thats F*%#ing SICK!!!! Makes me want to convert my AWD into 2WD so I can do smokey burnouts too... But you wait in the next five years I'll do the same video but with all four tires doing that LOL... But awsome vid I love the sound of the truck and those dumps are sweet with the exhaust rolling underneath... My father would kill me if I did that in his garage and would be scrubbing rubber off with a tooth brush LOL

I have just purchased a NX express kit as well and plan on spraying about 75-100shot ontop of my Radix... I am thinking anything under 150 a shark nozzle would be just fine... I'd highly recommend a SAFE System for your kit.... This way you don't have to worry about your factory injectors, fuel pump, etc... straining to hard or failing/clogging and melting down your motor... All it is, is a external fuel tank with its on pump and solenoids and about a gallon to 2 gallons of whatever fuel you want (race fuel for best results and safety of detonation)... I hear the fuel last or 2-3 10lbs bottles of NO2 before you have to refil it but it also has a gas gauge on it so you can check it anytime you want.... To be 99% safe I would get the window switch, WOT switch, and fuel pressure switch LOL and I think single stage is fine up to 150shot but traction could be an issue out of the whole with 2wd so maybe a prgressive controller ramping from 50-150 would be best for your application... and congrats bud... things you may still IMO need if I were you... -NX SAFE system -Progressive controller -Shark or Pirhana Nozzle - bottle opener unless its within reach -Nitrous arming switch -Fuel arming switch -Purge button (I believe its included already in your kit) -appropriate relays -switch panel and mounting location... -Scale to weigh bottle before and after you fill it... (don't want to race someone and start surging the spray and running super rich and Losing LOL) You may need more or less but this is all I would get to be 99% sure nothing will go wrong... Nitrous is awesome and not harmful if done right and safely.. S/F James

Ok, I am familiar with tuning as I have Hptuners pro... But, I am a complete newb to nitrous. I have read enough to know what to get and how to safely use it... The only thing I need to brush up on is some tuning tips... I have a radix making 9-9.5psi and I am running SD tune... I only plan on at the absolute most is 75shot maybe 100 once or twice at the track and I plan on running a SAFE system so I dont strain my current fuel system... I also plan on running my DO meth kit still with and without spraying Nitrous... So that also is another safety net for octane and detonation... So with the tune since the SAFE already supplies the necessary fuel do i need to make any tweaks to the VE tables or PE... I have also heard that for every 50hp shot I need to pull 1-2 degrees of timing in the spark advance high octane table in the RPM window I have selected to spray in... I have also read that no timing is necessary for such small shots up to 75hp.... I would hate to pull too much timing since I won't be running nitrous all the time but I dont want a melt down quite yet lol... So any help or info you guys have please share... I would appreciate any advice or reading material you guys may have...

For what you want and probably ever need unless you want to go 11.5 or less in the 1/4 is the 112/122 or 1900... A complete 112 can be had for 3-4K and an 03' SSS will need a inline fuel pump or upgrade the internal... The maggies come with and use 42# injectors which is all you need for your setup... If you ever need more info PM me as I have and am doing everything to my MP112 Plus I am your neighbor here in MN LOL

The hardest part for me owning a blower besides the mounds of money I have thrown at it to make it faster and more efficient is- I live in a small town and everyone knows my truck by now and no one wants to race me not even the corvette, camaro, mustang, and ocasional lightning guys... No one wants to play with me Now with my new power adder I will never have the chance to run someone when they see the purge ploom LOL....

Like I said previously my only clip is over 4 years ago I guess it was with a camera but it is still kinda crappy but it gives a small idea...

not another one down...

Your testing the limits SHHHHH^%%$T?!?!? HAHAHA J/K... I'll be testing the limits with my MP112 2.8 pulley, cammed, and stock bottom end with meth injection and a 75-100shot of nitrous I just picked up for this spring.... I am hoping mid 11's as well I think boom goes the tranny first though.... Man I can't wait for you to finish this build cause thats the route I want to go When I have the funds and time to swap blowers...

You know Patrick, if you ever decide you have any extra parts or accidently order double you can always hook a brotha up LOL ... I wish I was a RB like you ...Can't wait to see this build in person bud... S/F

I only have two (underpowered by a 900W Rockford Fosgate) 10" Kicker Comps subs downfiring underneath my rear bench seat and they sound awesome for only getting half the RMS they can handle... The box was unported when I initially installed it and it sounded good but then I ported it and it was much better IMO... I don't need much bass anymore just a good sounding system, and this setup pounds hard if I crank it up...

I will be looking you up soon TSA for some info on a 80e swap... I'll be spraying some juice this spring down the ole' SSS's gullet with the 10lbs of boost I already have LOL... This 65E might not like it much "transmission"

FYI- this is engine tech link try the bolt on section... To answer short--- Magnaflow, Corsa, Borla, with an x-pipe... All three are awesome. There are tons upon tons of exhaust questions and answers on this forum... Use the search first and if for some reason you can't find anything just go through the bolt-on section and you will find exhaust threads on just about every page of the 138 pages we have so far... S/F

It's called "Country Rap King" Free song..

That is so pimp LOL... That is my favorite rap video now just because of the SSS, the song is bearable tooo... I am so stoked that this truck is loved by so many and only seems to be getting more and more popular and rare...

MY SSS is a NUN so it can't have another boyfriend LOL... So this virgin is mine forever cause I aint ever selling her... And I as well will be that old man with the old 850-1000hp SSS at car shows...

I doubt its the PATC parts... But anything can happen and even the most credited part and transmission companies can have flaws in there parts that slip by quality control... With that said I myself have built my 4l65 with PATC Raptor parts and have had no problems yet but only have maybe 5K on the tranny in 4 years LOL... What the problem sounds to me is you may have fried your clutch packs but everything else held... If it was input output shafts it wouldn't move... I am pretty sure you are using PATC Beast sunshell, that bad boy is nearly indestructable, so that shouldn't be a problem... You have reverse so I would guess your reverse drum is entact and that your flex band is alright, Unless you never upgraded to the kevlar high energy flex band.... To fry good clutches like alto red eagles you would have had temps over 230' since thats what they are rated too... So many parts so many guess lol... If you had all good parts from aftermarket clutches, sunshell, reverse drum, bands, input output shafts, shift kit, servos, etc, I don't see why you would burn up a tranny unless default parts... I have alot of pony's going through my 4l65 with raptor parts, shift kit, servos, and 3000 stall with the exception of billet shafts (douh facesmack dummy me) and it has held so far... I know those shafts are going to snap one of these days, I just hope its not when I am out of town racing some corolla... LOL

They all are really rare when you think about the 8-9Billion people in the world and Chevrolet only produced just over 20K total... Now subtract the totaled ones and the onse that are driven to the ground with 200+ thousand miles etc... I bet there is maybe 1-2K left with less than 75K miles world wide so yea in 10 more years this truck will be nearly impossible to find below 100k and orginal not a clone...

What Bigtoyz97 aka Patrick is trying to say about open and closed loop is: A vehicle will always start out in a open loop operation with rpms above 400.. which is a predetermined air fuel mixture set in the programming until engine temp coolant reaches a certain degree... Once that certain degree is met the ECM/PCM goes into a closed loop thus reading actually AFR from the O2 sensors and adjusting many times a second to give you optimal fuel economy at partial throttle and cruising operations... Once your throttle is above roughly 75% or WOT it then goes into Open loop again to a predetermined AFR from your PE table.. FYI, Whats up Patrick?

No problem here... I completely removed my bumper and replaced with BSER Roll pan, I also completely removed the tire and winch assembly and had no problems whatsoever at 53K... But I have not driven in any salt or snow for the life of the vehicle and only summer driven on nice days so not a spec of rust anywhere besides casual surface rust... With that said I have my tire winch and mount that I'd sell you if you need one....

Nothing recent.. The only clip I have is my E-cutouts opening on my Sh*tty Iphone 3G from 2007 on Youtube... Thats straight dumps from the headers where my cats used to be...