Cramer

Whatever kit you purchase will tell you the best location. A nozzle is effective in the intake tubing but placement and style of nozzle depends on the manufacture. You generally want it to be far enough away from the throttlebody to create a fill of the tube for best mixture and atomization.

Right here. Better pic almost done with this side.

Speaking of Astroglide!

Do upgrade the injectors. Your prob running borderline on them as it is. Don't try to run a nozzle through a spacer plate. It isn't designed to do so. Do run a window switch or controller. And why switch the intake manifold out just for a single nozzle nitrous hit? Tune it and build it to the largest hit you plan on doing and be done. Also I forgot to mention that you will also need a purge kit to be safe also. Look into the NX Proton system that came out recently. The solenoids are self contained and wiring is minimal with the kit.

Prob need some injectors and a fuel pump. Retune is needed also. Depends on your shot you run. Maybe mid to lower 13's get that spacer off and sell it and put the money for something useful. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

What other mods do you have done?

Damn this is a good deal. I almost snatched them up a while ago. Now if I could make up my mind on what I will do with the front. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

One thing that is to be taken into account is the pressure that is flowing through the tube also. It takes more pressure to flow through a 5" tube effectively than it does with a smaller tube. Exhaust is flowed by pressure waves unlike a liquid. A exhaust tube which is to large will have no or little velocity to essentially expel gasses and will create pressure walls. Just like blowing through a straw vs blowing the same amount through a paper towel roll. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

Money sent for 2. Thanks Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

Jon stay away from a single plane intake. Run the Holley Hi/Mid- Ram, or the FAST. Equal length runners and more plenum volume, along with better air distribution than the single planes. Now if you want to run a Accufab TB i'd go with the single plane but that's another story.

I want 2 of them. I won't be able to PayPal you till tonight since my app isn't working on my phone. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

Think the plug your talking about is for fog lights. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

A spun bearing could be a culprit if it rotated and blocked the hole. I doubt it is the reason since you have good pressure and then when it warms up it drops. When they put the new pump on did they replace the o-ring? I would take the filter off, cut it open to inspect for bearing material, and do am oil change again. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

And they came to a conclusion that it has a cracked head how? By any chance did you use a Fram filter? The head is not pressurized by the lubrication system. The oil travels through the lifters, up through the push rods, into the upper valve train, and returns through the passages in the head itself. If you are using a Fram filter replace it with a Mobile1, Wix premium, K&N, or another top brand. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2 And by the way here is the oil flow through the engine.http://www.hotrodlane.cc/GTO/Lubrication%20Description.htmSent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

First of all you will need some special tools. Spring height micrometer, spring pressure tester, caliper, spring remove/install tool, and dial indicator, and base plate, and some basic tools you prob already have. I will try to do a write up on it this week when I get off work for the week. Btw if you need some thinner spring seats I have some from Brian. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

I think I have all the info in another post for pushrod length checking. I could give you a walk through but it would take to long to type on my phone. I worked with Brian with setting up my heads with his springs and will try to give you that info when I get off work this week. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

I have the coil covers I don't need anymore. My intake cover has been modified and painted so that is staying for now.

I was told it was the Q-trim with the 67mm ex wheel by Rick. I never ran the part numbers of the turbo but I think I know where the registration card is for it to check.

If you would have mentioned that earlier in the year I would have. I actually bought a truck about 20 min north of you for a daily over the summer.

It is a 70mm but a very reliable and capable turbo. It is equivalent to most 76-78mm turbos. No it's not a BB turbo. I have been thinking about selling if for a while now. Figured since I have the new build, a garage going up, and want to build my own big boy turbo kit I might as well put it up for sale now.

If its still around. I need to get rid of a ton of parts to free up some space. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2

Hey all. I have had this kit for a few years and have not put it on. This kit is brand new with all the hardware from Trick Performance Products plus extras. I purchased the kit as a non-intercooled kit and added a intercooler and all the piping. Here is a description of the parts included and I will throw in all the little odds and ends that I have sitting around for it. This kit is not bolt-on and go. I was in the process of routing the intercooler tubing when I decided to put it on hold, and the down pipe does not go past the firewall. This also does not include injectors or fuel pump. Turbo and stuff Trick Performance log style manifold turbo kit with a MP T-70 .96ar mandrel bent tubing with 3" dp. Also the stock drivers side manifold that was modified and wrapped with all the hot parts. Wastegate has been moved to the log manifold just before the turbo. 38mm gate and 44mm BOV. Not sure of the brand but Rick said it is a Tial knock off that he has put on a hundred builds with no problems. Also a turbonetics Godzilla BOV and flange that is used. All hot parts wrapped with titanium header wrap, and I made a custom stainless steel heat shield that doubles as a blanket. (silica insulation on the inside of the shield) Intercooler is a 32x12x3" a/a with 3" tubing all the way, with blue silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps. ( still have to route the tubing) Downpipe to turbo and back to the 3" in/out with v-banded end to turbo and a O2 bung welded in. Oil feed line to the turbo and the adapter to the housing. Fuel cell bulkhead fitting for oil return line to the pan, and the hose and fittings. Autometer Phantom Boost gauge Caspers fuel pump hotwire kit Brand new NGK spark plugs. I know for sure I have more parts for it laying around, and will include them in if my full asking price is met. My initial purchase was over $3000 plus the parts I bought. and that put me over $4000. I am looking to get $2850 PLUS Shipping. I would prefer not to split the kit up at this time and sell it whole. If you want more details feel free to PM me. I do have tons more parts I can include in the purchase for extra but the time it would take me to post everything would be way to long. So if you are looking for anything else let me know. I prob have it. I will only accept PayPal or cash in hand. I will take a itemized shipping detail with pictures and description and the parts will be shipped in atleast one box. More than likely two. I mind you that this kit has not been mounted on a vehicle, but there are a few used parts, and parts that were mocked up but not ran.

I would ask them about what they stock. Some muffler shops only carry stock replacement stuff and rarely deal with custom setups.