1FASTBRICK

If he doesn't make them any more, I will just make my own mold.

That's sick!!!

Check the grounds, especially if the heads were rebuilt and they painted them. The TB plug wires also become brittle and it is possible that 1 of the wires broke. Here is a Diagnostic Trouble tree I found. DTC P0641 Circuit Description The powertrain control module (PCM) provides a 5-volt reference to the following sensors: The throttle position (TP) sensor 1 The accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor 2 The engine cooling fan speed sensor The AC pressure sensor The fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor The oil pressure sensor (OPS) The PCM monitors voltage on the 5-volt reference circuit. If the voltage is higher or lower than required, DTC P0641 will set. Conditions for Running the DTC The ignition is ON. Conditions for Setting the DTC The PCM detects a voltage that is higher or lower than required on the 5-volt reference circuit. The above condition is present for 1 second. Action Taken When the DTC Sets The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) when the diagnostic runs and fails. The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores this information in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records. Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail. A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes. A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic. Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool. Step Action Values Yes No Schematic Reference: Engine Controls Schematics Connector End View Reference: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector End Views or Engine Controls Connector End Views 1 Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls? -- Go to Step 2 Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls 2 Important If the vehicle has a cranks but will not run condition proceed to step 3. Observe the Freeze Frame/Failure Records for this DTC. Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds. Start the engine. Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records. Did the DTC fail this ignition? -- Go to Step 3 Go to Intermittent Conditions 3 Turn OFF the ignition. Disconnect the throttle body electrical connector. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly Replacement . Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. Measure the voltage from the 5-volt reference circuit of the throttle position (TP) sensor 1 to a good ground with a DMM. Is the voltage within the specified range? 4.8-5.2 V Go to Step 5 Go to Step 4 4 Is the voltage more than the specified value? 5.2 V Go to Step 8 Go to Step 6 5 Connect the throttle body electrical connector. Disconnect the air conditioning (A/C) pressure sensor. Refer to Air Conditioning (A/C) Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Replacement in Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning. Measure the voltage from the 5-volt reference circuit of the A/C pressure sensor to a good ground with a DMM. Is the voltage within the specified range? 4.8-5.2 V Go to Step 10 Go to Step 9 6 Monitor the DMM while disconnecting all other devices connected to this 5-volt reference A circuit one at a time. If voltage changes when one of the above components are disconnected, replace the component. Refer to the appropriate replacement procedure. Was a component replaced? -- Go to Step 12 Go to Step 7 7 Test the 5-volt reference A circuit for a short to ground or for any sensor low reference circuit. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct a condition? -- Go to Step 12 Go to Step 10 8 Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. Test each 5-volt reference circuit and the fuel tank pressure sensor signal circuit for a short to voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct a condition? -- Go to Step 12 Go to Step 10 9 Replace the throttle body assembly. Refer to Throttle Body Assembly Replacement . Did you complete the replacement? -- Go to Step 12 -- 10 Test this 5-volt reference circuit for a short to the TAC motor control 1 or 2 circuits. Did you find and correct a condition? -- Go to Step 12 Go to Step 11 11 Replace the powertrain control module (PCM). Refer to Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Replacement . Did you complete the replacement? -- Go to Step 12 -- 12 Clear the DTCs with a scan tool. Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds. Start the engine. Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records. Did the DTC fail this ignition? -- Go to Step 2 Go to Step 13 13 Observe the Capture Info with a scan tool. Are there any DTCs that have not been diagnosed? -- Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List System OK Document ID# 1252378

It's not. GM never had the badge in Chrome. You can order them from Ebay for cheap. They are similar to the real SS badge but they are chrome.

Is yours AWD or 2wd? That maybe the difference. I will have to dig up some pictures but I have an 05 and an 06 module 2wd modules. Can you clean the top of your unit and see who the manufacture was? I know one was Kelsy Hayes but I forgot how else did the modules.

interested to see your SS Build.

As much as it shames me to say this, I doubt anyone will take the time to create a registry. Unfortunately It's just a novelty to most and there do not appear to be enough true enthusiast out there. I can tell you none of the Trucks that I am currently aware of had consecutive Vin numbers. A few Have been destroyed beyond reasonable repair. Including but not limited to T-bone, Rollover, tagged front and rear, or tagged extensively in the front or rear Compromising the frame and cab's structural integrity. I also have seen some Theft recoveries through the auction striped to a rolling shell and a bed. Some times they have motors and sometimes the don't. When they're that far gone, I wouldn't want it.

Buy OEM or if you want solid mounts, there is a memeber named funkster on performancetrucks.net that manufactures and sells them. You can find him in the member made section on that site. The korean knock off mounts don't last as long as they don't have a good rubber compound.

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/88019-wtb-carbon-fiber-radiator-cover/?hl=%2Bcarbon+%2Bfiber+%2Bradiator+%2Bcover I would be in to order one as well.

If you still have the Vin and can find anything that reminds you of the number like an old Photo or something, let me know.

OEM. There a little over $200 at the dealer. It's hit and miss with the chinese/taiwan replacements. I have found Some leak right out of the box, Some leak a few months later, Some leak a year later, and Less than that actually work as described... Sure they will give you a new one if its defective, but they won't pay for your time or wasted coolant. Do it once and do it right the first time! While you're at it get a replacement T-stat and check the hoses.

What number was your truck?

The exhaust was all hacked up from one of the previous owners. A catback was the most cost effective route to repair it.

Did you have the COA with the truck?

Interesting. I had a sidewall blowout on one of my LS2's too a few months back on the fwy. Less than 1 year old. Tires were properly inflated. I was stuck on a trip and only had a Walmart near by. They were the only ones open at 7am. They only had 2 types in stock so I was limited. I think I went with the General Graber. Been a while, I have to look. I have Nexxen on my other truck and they Suck.

Turns out the DJM's don't clear Corsa or Magnaflow exhaust kits. I have Magnaflow kit so that's not going to work. A few have said the Belltech rear hits too at least with the Corsa and does not clear aftermarket diff covers.

It's just a standard Silverado owners manual. They did not have a specific owner's manual for the SS and you can still get them through Helm Inc. You can by the manual itself for $25 Or $35 you can get the portfolio with the nylon pouch, Manual, and the warranty information just like you would have received from the factory in the Glove box. http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?Make=CHV&Model=SILV&Year=2003&Category=2&class_2=CHV&mk=Chevrolet+%26+Geo&yr=2003&md=Silverado&dt=Owner+Manuals&module=&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=15107156&itemtype=K

Shows a theft 08/27/2011 and Shows Recovered 07/07/2015. I guess the Insurance company wanted to keep it a clean title so they could get as much money for it as possible.

You don't like the Chrome knock off 55 series??? I am not sure how it has a clean title, but that is clearly not an 07 body!!! Let's not forget the Regular 99-02 tailgate with no SS body mouldings, the missing SS center dash emblem, and the cheap chrome center cap knock off's either. They also put a cheap bed liner in it to boot... You can't tell from the pictures and I am not sure if they fixed it but it also had standard textured plastic replacement door handles instead of the factory painted ones. I can't remember if the head rest are just standard or if they were correct. They have changed the pictures so you can't tell.

You should see some of the junk for sale out there in that price range. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/ctd/5382740836.html This one takes the cake... It was a theft recovery and I saw it go through the Auction. They Paid $13k for it at auction plus fee's and transport. It's listed as an 07 even though it's clearly an 03-05 body, Supposedly has a clean title even though it has a CA blue tag replacement vin and is missing alot of correct SS parts. He has already starting to drop the price. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/ctd/5367450407.html

Personally, I don't like the way the rear one mounts. I also think they were designed more for lowered applications where as mine is stock height. That's why I am looking to see if there is any interest in bringing the Hotchkis kit back. It has the largest front bar available where it makes most of the difference. I realize these trucks weren't meant for Autocross, but the look you get passing someone rounding a bend like frwy on and off ramps, transitions and so on is Priceless!!! Also those sudden lane changes to avoid accidents or road debris make it hard to control these heavy pigs as well.

I think they were $30 at the dealer and it came with the lid.

Found this thread regarding the rear sway bar showing how it's mounted. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/34174-hotchkis-rear-swaybar-installed/

I don't feel the other products on the market are any better. I believe the Hotchkis kit had the largest Front bar available. I believe it was as it mounts forward. It also clears the 14 bolt rear end unlike one of the other brands. I just don't remember which one it was.

Correct. Larger front and adds a rear bar. The pricing I was given was the list sale price. I am sure it would be cheaper but I would then have to sit on the kits. Like I stated earlier. I could possibly see doing 10 kits as 3 would already be used. However I am not sure how much interest there would be in the product. I would have to pay up front and sit on it until they sell.