BlueAKSSS
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Posts posted by BlueAKSSS
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Nice looking truck!!
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Welcome back to the site!
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I replaced mine when I bought my truck due to the same problem, and they seem to be holding up just fine, or at least as good as the original ones.
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Nice upgrade. Are those diamond plate mud flaps, hard to tell from the pics? If so I'd lose those ASAP yikes haha.
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Selling a single bolt, L92 Variable Valve Timing Mast Motorsports Camshaft, this should fit any GEN IV LS engine with VVT and a single bolt cam. I would guess 07+ 6.2L L92 based engines, like Escalade, Denali, 2010+ LS3 Camaro SS and so on.
Here are the specs and see the link below:
Mast Motorsports High Performance Powertrain Solutions
Part # 914-103
Duration @ .050: 230/237
Valve Lift: .588/.607
Lobe Separation Angle (LSA): 111
All my trucks are GEN III so this cam does me no good! I bought it used supposedly was installed for 300 miles then removed so its basically like new other than a couple tiny specs of rust I noted on some lobes from sitting for some time in packaging but I don't think this will effect it what so ever.
Asking $320 shipped USPS Priority, located in Anchorage, Alaska local pickup would be great as well if your up here. PM me if your interested!-Just to clarify this won't work in a SSS truck but I thought I would post it up in case someone has a NNBS with the 6.2L...
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That looks sweet! Thats the escalade bezel on there right?
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I think its pretty easy to convert a rcsb to AWD like Lile said, just swap in the AWD NVG149 and a AWD front diff from a escalade (3.73) or SS (4.10s) and it would be good to go. That is a pretty decent looking truck, just needs the cladding added.
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I had an issue with the Crankshaft Relearn on my 69 C10 and I think I was able to get it reset by using HPTuners but I don't remember now exactly how it worked out. Good luck on the relearn I know it can be tricky sometimes...
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Sweet gotta love a paid for trip! I'll probably see you around, I'll be at UAA from 11:30-1:30 Monday through Thursdays since I'm taking a summer class...
Yeah you definitely want to find some tires so you don't ruin your blizzaks! Haha
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That is awesome! NIce kill!
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That shift point seems good to me since its got a cam, if you where to pick it up get a real tune and that problem will be gone like the others said. The cam sounds nice!
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Blower motor resistor, happened to a friends truck. It would blow when the truck was off and the speeds where not controllable.
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Matt,
Did you ever try unplugging the battery to see if something might have needed resetting?
It's good that the problem has gone away but I am never satisfied if I don't figure out what the cause was. I just figure it's just a matter of time till it returns.
I had the battery disconnected many times, while I had the fuse block all taken apart and out of the truck. I agree with you I am never satisfied either when a problem just disappears but in this case it must have been water somewhere crossing some connections. Hopefully it never returns!!!
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Good news! May have been moisture somewhere? I hope a problem like this doesnt show up to my shop. Id lose my ass chasing a problem like this. Haha glad to hear it worked itself out.
Oh by the way matt, hows that secret weapon look? The one you were telling me about.
Decide which vehicle to strap it down on?I'm guessing this was a strange moisture issue. As far as the secret weapon goes, I think I will be putting that on my 1969 C10, unless I find some L92 heads for my truck or 57.... Hahaha
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Nice truck! Could you have someone just shoot the rocker panels only and the areas behind the tires? I think that would be a much better idea, when you bedliner something and then go to resell it the buyer will be turned away most likely because they think your trying to cover up rust or other issues. I would fix it right and paint the really bad areas but thats just my opinion.
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*UPDATE! Yesterday I cleaned the fuse block extensively with contact cleaner, compressed air and pretty much found nothing but some dirt. Put everything back together and it still was not fixed still tried to run the starter when on the ignition on position as before. Today I started the truck and didn't check to see if it was still trying to run the starter. Later on I tried it after leaving my final test and work and the problem has corrected itself?? This has to be one of the most craziest problems I have experienced with this truck, I'm just glad it fixed itself and now everything is back to normal.
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Found this thread about the same issue on a Duramax forum. Here the link. This is the only thread anywhere I have found with the same symptoms I'm having.
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Let me ask around the dealership and see what others think..
Let me know if you find anything out, this problem is driving me nuts! Haha, thinking about going out to the junkyard and finding a different underhood fuse block in case mine is not making some connections its suppose to be making.
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I upgraded on my desktop and my laptop and so far it seems I can open old, new, and beta files seamlessly! I haven't done anything with it yet because I haven't needed to but it seems to open and save files good for me on Windows 7. I would keep a extra install file of the beta version just in case you run into issues but I don't think you will. I'm glad to see a new version and it opens up without the annoying beta warning screen each time which is very nice...
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How do these systems work? On older vehicles it would HAVE to be that switch but I know some vehicles work kinda backwards. I remember a Pontiac of some sort had something like 2 relays and if you cut power to both the car starts or something goofy like that. This was when I was going to train to be an audio/alarm installer. I'm really interested in what could be causing this. Has to be faulty bcm or something like that.
The dealer told me that the key sends a signal to the BCM then the BCM interprets it then triggers the relay to start the truck. It listens for a signal from the knock sensors to know if the engine is running or not. If the BCM has funky power going to it or faults it can do weird things like what my truck is doing.
So to add to this I completely disconnected all the plugs on my underhood fuse block, checked all the fuses and cleaned everything with contact cleaner. Still has the same problem...
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Mine was almost the same prob. I changed the switch and put a new starter on and that cured it
I wish it was that simple! My starter seems to be working great and I changed the ignition switch with no cure.
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Just this morning when I went out to start it. I talked to a guy I know at the dealer and he talked to some service guys and apparently it could be a problem in the underhood fuse block causing the BCM to get power from an incorrect source. He said it could be caused from water getting into the fuse box and maybe corroding some connections. So I'm going to fully take that apart later today and clean everything up super well and check everything that I can and see if that fixes my problem.
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Let us know!
Well I replaced the switch which was pretty easy and everyone at the dealer said that had to be the problem as well. Problem is it did not fix the problem still does the exact same thing. I will say though that the new ignition switch really tightened up the key feels like a new truck. So my question is where do I go from here... this is such a strange problem!
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I've got a ignition switch in will call at the dealer so I'll go pick that up. I can't imagine anything else being the problem at this point so I'll give this a try and its pretty cheap. I'll report back once I get it installed.
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Looks awesome, sounds awesome!