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Had it just over two weeks and now the transmission blew this morning, it is making a fairly loud humming noise so I am hoping it is just the pump that went but I wouldn't be surprised if it was the whole thing knowing my luck.

Going to just extend the harness where it is needed to tuck it away, I have a nice soldering iron and quite a bit of patience so I will get it done eventually. I have a Gopro sitting in my cab, just need to find some time to set it up and get some video.

Well I have it back finally, had a coil pack code pop up the second day, switched the 6th and 2nd pack just in case but I think the wiring harness just wasn't seated fully, it hasn't come back since. I have put about 150 miles on it so far and other than the same two knock sensor codes coming back like they did before it got rebuilt everything has been good. The codes don't seem to be affecting anything currently so I am going to finish breaking it in and worry about it after that. I also have a picture of the cluster in there, I wasn't sure what I would think of it but I ended up really liking it. Next task will be to tackle the terrible wiring job that it currently has.

I was expecting about that. I mostly just need to relocate the main wiring harness along the back firewall and a few small harnesses up front need to go along the frame or something. I have quite a bit of experience with wiring and soldering, so I am pretty sure I can handle it myself, just going to take lots of time. I do our local car shows and a lot of people want to see the 454 once they hear it, so it definitely gets looked at a lot.

I sold mine for $1500 and the guy that bought it removed it himself.

I wish I had time to go down and get them, I could use some of the stuff on them.

Most likely the front diff, very common problem. You will probably end up tossing $500-$1000 on that and other little maintenance if you get it, but I think it's a good deal especially from a dealer.

I've had mine for months at $1500 shipped and nobody has been interested. I'm patient but I am honestly surprised nobody has wanted it.

I'm hoping to do a wire tuck on mine once I get it back, how much time do you suspect it took to get yours done? I want to get mine all back on the firewall out of the way and down near the frame in the front so it's not all over the place.

I have a full kit in black with most if not all of the brackets. Good shape with relatively minimal scratching except for the one piece on the front passenger corner should be replaced. Feel free to make me an offer.

Feel free to make an offer on mine, now that I am about to pay for the rest of my engine I am looking to move the rest of my parts to help pay for it.

Finally got some engine specs, I think I translated everything correctly but I attached the PDF as well in case something looks fishy. It is being hauled down to the dyno for break in right now, should hopefully have it back this week yet. 456 CI Block – GM LSX Bore 4.205 8/8 moly finish with/ tor plate Pistons – JE custom 2.618 4.200 piston to wall .005 comp rate 9.9 to 1 piston to deck .-004 Piston Rings – Total Seal custom .043 moly – 2nd .043 0 3/16 std ten oil Ring gaps .021 top, .021 2nd - + .015 oil rails Rods – Manley 4340 H Beam 6.125 C to C, ARP 2000 Bolt Rod Bearing CL .0023 ACL Race Bearing .010 Main Line – ARP Main Stud Installed + line honed, Main CL .0027 ACL Race Bearing .010 Crank – 4.100 stroke Forged Crank 10/10 Thrust CL - .004 Cam – Howard Hydralic Roller, Duration .050, In 230, Ex 232 Valve Lift In .625 Ex .625 Lob Center 113 degrees. Intake C/L Installed at 108.5 degrees, piston to valve In .265, Ex .200, cam thrust .005 Heads – Ported but West Coast Cylinder Head – 73cc Chamber, In - 2.165, Ex 1.600 V-Spring 1.780 In, 170lbs on seat, open 420lbs, custom cometic head gaskets. Engine specs.pdf

I have to have it towed about 80 miles to the nearest AWD dyno near Seattle, I want it broke in there before I even touch it so it's covered in case something goes wrong.

Last piece of the puzzle arrived today. Tuner has their dyno back and they are hooking everything back up now. Should be going down this week to be finished up. There is another SS sitting next to mine at the shop right now, pretty much stock aside from a supercharger on it and the wheels.

Man that story sounds so familiar, did the same thing last year.

I must have missed that one during my research. I thought the NW was expensive enough, that one is even more.

If you end up going with the 102mm Fast than the best option is the Nick Williams 102mm drive by wire, Fast doesn't make a drive by wire option.

I ordered the Fast LSXR 102mm intake to use with the 102mm. I will have an LS3 intake and 90mm throttle body available after I get it swapped in.

New Xlink fixed all of that for me. I had a 1.0 in there, have a 4.0 now.

The rest of the build actually came in a couple grand under prediction so it leaves me with enough to do both of these, but yea it has definitely had me hemorrhaging money lately.

Well the throttle body hits the water pump, got the old 90mm throttle body back on there and working with the new Xlink at least. Since the dyno is down until next week anyway I just ordered a Fast LSXR intake to match up with the throttle body.

I actually really like that violet, it's different and I think it would look great on it.

Got the Xlink put in, hooked the new intake up and made sure everything is working at least. Will get installed and the rest put on later tonight or in the morning. Called the dyno shop to get an appointment..... And their dyno broke last night. So going to be looking for another place with an AWD dyno tomorrow hopefully, if not I wait a week and get in line of the stuff he already pushed back from this.

Well it's shiny, will know if it does the trick later today.

Posted this on my build thread too, but figured I would update this as well. Pretty sure everything that can go wrong with this has. Motor runs great, but it won't move anywhere. Traced to the TAC module and replaced that. Had it towed somewhere with a Tech II to program the new TAC and it wouldn't program. Towed it back and replaced the wiring to the TAC and now it's showing that the blade won't open on the throttle body. Have a Nick Williams 102mm ordered for delivery tomorrow along with a new Xlink since I have a V1 that people say is problematic.