A_FUrious

I would be interested.

Bump! Doooo eeeeet!

Thanks! Hopefully they sell quicker then the rotors/pads I've been tryin to unload.. Once I get em off n shined up ill post it up. Like I mentioned before, any suggestions on price would be greatly appreciated. I really have no clue what I can get for em.

18-25k I've seen for an 06. For 03-05 you can buy an AWD. I believe all 06's were RWD only. Cost wise modding can get costly but it really depends on how much work you're willing to do yourself. Off the jump, if it isn't done yet, CAI, LT headers w/CATs back exhaust and tune are absolute. This can all vary depending on minimal rework based on manufacturer. American Racing headers to Corsa sport bolt right up but be prepared to drop 2500 for it. There is tons of info on this sight with a lot of opinions. It's just a matter of finding info that works for your budget and what you want out of your truck. If you plan on beating your BF's TBSS be prepared to spend somewhere in the realm of 10k. Some can do it for less, but if your after an 11sec truck it's gonna cost to do it right. GL on your search and welcome to the site!

RWD blows in the snow. I generally put a blanket on her for the winter. My local speed shop labels the RWD SS's as the "fast" SS.. 'Injection Connection'

Thanks guys. It was eating me up modding too much crap to make it work. Now just to sell the Boss 330's, I will have 5 to sell not sure what to price em at. 950 with chrome locking lugs??? No tires except on the fifth. It has like 40% tread left.

Welcome! Lots of great info here, the search field is your friend!

Yes.. Oh and I know. There is no way I would drive with so few turns. I would have to replace all of my wheel studs from 65mm OE to 80mm to even get close. The issue with that was wheel studs are quite spacific on Knurl diameter and length as well as the shoulder. There isn't anything that would be a direct replacement. Most wheel studs are designed spacifically for certain applications. For instance, the closest "replacement" had a Knurl of 15.67mm and OE is 15.83mm. What happens if I put that crap in and it's weak... I go to put my lug nuts on and that bitch spins loose.... Forget that... I actually decided to buy TBSS reps from NorCal. Keep it stock and just replace my hubs for good measure. Besides, I bought them already.

C-hair... I'm just nervous because of the spacers, and if they allow flexability on hard turns.. Thanks for your responses guys

After trials and tribulations. Which I don't recommend anyone doing the Z06 upgrade if you have Boss 330's. I figured it would be close but not this bad. I've had to add 60mm spacers to get the clearance where it doesn't rub on the caliper. I bought new hubs and wheel studs so I can get more than 4 turns on my lug nuts. It blows cause I can definitely notice how far the wheel comes out of the wheel well. Live and learn. I will probably end up eventually getting TBSS reps in the future. As for now, does anyone know at a very minimum where I would be a safe distance away from the caliper?? It appears I have ~1.5mm at its closest point which is at the center piston. As always, any insight is greatly appreciated. If anyone wants to trade out right for pretty much brand new Boss 330's with Nitto 420s 305/40/22 with maybe 1k miles on them let me know. 22's only. PM me if interested and I'll send pics.

Has anyone here replaced your wheel studs for longer ones? I'm trying to get at least an 80mm stud. The current studs are 14mm x 1.5 x 65mm long with 15.83mm Knurl and 16.2mm shoulder. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Someone please buy these! PM me with an offer.

Ran into another snag, clearance on Boss 330's. I'm in the process of buying new hubs and replacing the wheel studs to 2" so I can slide a 5/8" spacer to clear the caliper. I can't be too pissed since I scored these wheels for practically free. Just sucks, one thing after another.

Sorry for your loss. I'm surprised insurance companies can over rule the term/use of Onstar and at very least get the last known location to police.

It looks like after the mock up I'm getting about 1/8" of the pad over the rotor. It appears the bracket is sitting flush and I don't seem to have any play on the caliper or the bracket. Is this normal? Is there something anyone suggests that I try, so I can get a little closer to 100%?

I'll see if I can make it, I unfortunately am oncall that week so I can't register. I'll try and swing by though. This is a great event with a lot of sweet rides.

Still available. If you hung up on 10 bucks, make me an offer. Brand new in the box n ready to ship. These are 13" rotors and are stock replacement.

I recently was having an issue with the front passenger side brake caliper. One of the two pistons were binding up and not releasing. A little easier to tell since I would get a whiff of that brake pad burning up. Turned out to be a small tare in the boot was allowing dirt/dust to bind up the piston. I first noticed it by a similar issue I would steer off to the right and I definitely felt a lagging feeling.

Great find man! Grats on your new baby! Unfortunately it is of no avail utilizing your VIN to get the production #. GM will gladly send you a letter stating it is truly an ISS, but no production #. Your best bet is that hopefully the original dealership may have it, or info on it. I hear that once it's purchased for the first time, that's when they issue you your COA, along with the production info. Good luck and please keep us posted!

Grats! It's always good to marry your best friend by your best friend!

Don't mind the background nonsense. This is visually the difference in rotor size.

Did you relocate your evap solenoid yet?