Silverado2469

The turbo will be on in a few months ill have that much time to mess with the tune on my stock truck to learn how to tune. I'm pretty good at picking stuff up. Not to say I'm really smart but I would say I'm average/slightly above. And my dad tuned his diesel so if I get stuck he can help me. He's a longshore mechanic for 34 years I think? And has built probably 20 race cars. Including his 12 second 4x4 3500 4 door long bed. That pulls the front wheel when he launches. He's pretty dang good. But I really want to show him I can do this myself. I'm 21. And he doesn't respect me enough with car stuff. So I'd like to show up one day. And have a turbo'd truck, that runs good and tuned by me. That's why I'm not asking his help in the welding, no the design of the piping or anything. So I'm sorry if my question seem repetitive, or anything else. But I'm going from scratch. And I'm going to finish this. And hopefully by myself.

Ok I'll respond back after I pick up the EFIlive. Thanks for all the info. Is tuning a reality for me? Or should I get it done by someone?

Would an air-air IC under the truck work? So I don't have to pull my front bumper off? Or should I look for a front mount air-air? I wasn't going to run one at all. But I think it will help a lot to have one.

What's a good IAT sensor? And do they just go in the intake? Where the MAF was? Or?

Ya I'm going down to visit my parents this weekend. I'm going to see if I can borrow the EFIlive, and if he can show me a few things on it. When I borrow it. I'm going to buy the lisence. And then write an SD tune without boost, just to get the feel for tuning. Then edit it when I get turbo built. So for an SD tune on a stock truck do I need to buy anything? I'm still a little confused on how a SD tune gets its numbers for the equation. A MAF is easy to understand how it works. But the SD I'm a little confused on. Do I need an IAT reader?

I plan on just building a intake to replace the turbo setup and have a tune for the new injectors to pass smog. Then revolt the Turbo up after smog. So will an SD tune affect that? Or?

Will an SD tune affect my emissions over a MAF sensor? Or does it matter?

What all do I need for a SD tune? I take out the MAF. Do I replace it with a different meter? Or?

Wouldn't tuning for 12 psi then running 6 cause it to run rich? Because 6 psi is a lot less than 12 but it was tuned for 12? Or with a SD tune it does the math right? So it takes your rpm with your VE and that calculates boost right? Then it adds fuel compared to boost? Or am I way off?

Ok I'll look into a front mount intercooler. What size fits with no modification?

If I have EFIlive already but no licenses do I have to buy a certain license for my vehicle. Or any license and my EFIlive will be able to tune it?

It's not the piping. It's having to fab up the mount and edit the bumper to get the IC to fit. That I have a problem with.

Right this is my DD truck and I'm sure I could have a front mount I can keep my AC and all that but the fabrication would be a lot harder. I'm doing a rear mount because I don't know how to weld yet, all the fabrication would have to be taken somewhere to get done. I want to buy a welder soon and learn to weld. Before I attempted a front mount. I know I will switch. But not till I know more about turbo'd. And more about fabrication. I think a rear mount is already above my level of mechanical ability. But I think I can figure it out. And as for piling. STS first came out with a crapy pump that failed all day long. I will be running a turbowerx pump. It's damn expensive. But won't fail. My original pump the mocal pump. Would have failed. But after researching enough I found the right pump. And I've seen videos of rear mount setups. Running 25-30psi and making close to 900 rwhp. And having 0 problems. So I know there's power to be made. I just have to unlock the chest of answers and get it setup right. Haha. I know I should go front mount but I just think right the best bet for me is a rear mount.

Why would a rear mount have heat soak issues? Wouldn't it not because of the distance from the motor. And the ambient air coming from around the truck while driving? And if I built a piece of sheet metal over the "under the truck air-air" that had a scoop upfront catching air and making it flow through the intercooler. Wouldn't that help with heat soaking since the heat on the road would bounce off of that piece of metal. Or whatever I make it out of. Something can stay cooler than sheet metal. I don't want the hassle of a front mount intercooler which is why I'm doing a rear mount turbo so I don't have the under hood heat, I don't have to put a front mount IC on. And I don't have to buy/build a turbo mani. If I put an IC on it will be under the truck. Or even in the engine bay like a TOP mount or something. Which I think would be WORSE than under the truck? Cuz the engine bay gets hot. I think. An IC under the truck mounted at a 45* angle with the front (to the engine bay) is facing up which will catch the air. A metal sheet underneath it to help with road temps. Will work just as good a front mount? I could be 100% wrong and since I'm no expert I probably am. But it seems like it would work just fine? Thanks for your input. If my idea won't work. I womt be doing an IC till later on down the road. Thanks.

I'm not planning on running meth. I think that's why your able to change the psi so much. 4psi will require a lot less fuel than 8-10psi. I don't think even a good tuner could tune for that unless I ran meth. But I'm not sure I have no idea. It just doesn't seem like 4-10 psi is able to be on 1 tune. But I have no idea. Hopefully someone who knows a great tuner will post up so I can talk to them about it if they have ever done it. Or chpspecial will chime in. I hope that's the case. Where I can change anywhere from 4-10 psi. On one tune. Haha.

Thank you! I'm on tapatalk how do I search for a user? Ill see if I can figure it out and send him a message. That would be sweet to talk to someone who is using a very similar set up. Thanks.

Ok ya I figured a gas engine should be able to switch tunes on the fly just never heard anyone doing so. And hasn't really looked into it to much. TBH it just popped into my head as I was writing the post. Haha. It would be cheaper if I tuned the truck myself. BUT I will fork out the extra dough to get it done right. If rather get it done right then try to save 3-500$ and blow the motor because I f-Ed up my tune. It's not worth it. But I want to learn how to tune it myself so I can adjust it when I cam it, and possible spray it. And turn the boost up after I build the trans, rear end, and put a forged bottom end in it. (Years down the road) right now I want to run 6-8psi. Looking for 400RWHP. And if I can have 2 tunes. Then ill have 1 set at 4psi. And a track tune set at 8 or 10. 10 psi should be close to 450-475 I'm thinking. The STS kit claims 150 HP at 7 psi. Which should be what right around 400? I think stock dyno is around 240?

Also I forgot to ask, I know on a diesel you can have a switch. 1-5 or 1-2 for different tunes you can load on the fly. For example. 4psi, 7psi, 10, or something. And if you have a boost controller you can adjust it per the tune. Is this possible for a gas motor? I wouldn't mind having just 2. Where I do a street tune, 4psi. And a drag tune of 8 or 10 psi. Thanks again.

Ok so I'm in the process of doing a turbo build, I've Been doing tons of research, and every time I feel like I have it down something changes, I was going to go to blackbearperformance for my tune, but they moved their dyno out of California. So since my dad has EFIlive. I think I'm going to tune my truck myself. I've never tuned a vehicle, and have a few months most likely before I have to tune this truck, so I have time to learn and hopefully get it down enough to tune it safely. I'm wanting to run 6-8 psi. Out of a t76 rear mount turbo, 60#injectors. And a 340LPH fuel pump. what is easier to tune. SD or a 2 bar MAF? My dad has tuned lots of vehicles so I can go to him for help if needed but I want to do all work to this truck myself. I will be doing the turbo install myself. And hopefully tuning it myself. I'm thinking of getting the EFIlive this weekend. And practice tuning my truck how it sits now so I can practice. But would a SD tune be much different? So far my understanding of a MAF is it send electrical current to a probe that then gets cooled down by incoming air which causes more current to get pushed through the probe to keep it at a certain degree above the air temp. And the amount of current is equal to the density of the air. Is that correct? And SD takes RPM and the IAT's and a special formula to get the density? I know I need a 2 bar MAF sensor if I stay with that. But if I go SD what do I need? I'm no mechanic. And I'm not a tuner. But I'm pretty good at picking up information. If you keep it in simple English as much as possible. And explain the technical words I should be able to make some sense of it. OR if you know of a good tuner in Southern California. I may just go to them if the price is right. THANK YOU all for the help that you have given. And will continue to give. I've learned SOOO much since I've joined this site. And I appreciate the help.

What would it cost for a SD tune? My dad has EFIlive for his dura max, and I'm about to start building a turbo for my truck so I'm gonna see if he will let me use his if I buy the credits, I'm thinking of running 8-10psi. Once I tune a truck, do I get mess with that tune indefinitely? Like if I tuned it before the turbo to try and get the feel for tuning, then just edit that tune for the turbo? Or buy 2+ more credits to tune it for the turbo? Thanks guys.

Well my plan is to build a piece of sheet metal over it that has slits, or is full of holes so that it's "protected" and still works, idk of have to play with that. But most of my roads are paved, not many gravel roads. I was looking at what it takes for an air to water intercooler, and I don't want that kind of hassle haha.

Why wouldn't and air to air work? And how much do you want for the air to water?

Ya makes sense. Thanks. Ok so I hadn't planned on running an intercooler then I started thinking, what if i I ran an intercooler say 27x7x2.5 so it's long skinny, and thin. And I can run it "in line" with the charge piping. Underneath the truck, that would get enough air onto the intercooler to cool the incoming charge. And running an intercooler even if a smallish one is better than no intercooler right?

Ya I thought that would work great. I didn't know if the made one or not. Took me an entire day to find that one. But it's like 60$ euro. Pluse like 30$ euro shipping. I can make a down pipe way cheaper. But this looks pretty sweet. Ill keep looking. Hopefully I can find one. Or I can make one as well. 2 t4 flanges. With a square pipe and a waste gate flange welded to it. Sounds pretty easy.

Would you happen to know where I can find a t4-t4 pedestal with waste gate flange? Like this one. I found this one but it's in the UK. Just wondering if there's one shipped from the United States?