Bigtoyz97

And how many miles are on your O2's I ran into that also on my car.

With my experience with working with gears.... I would just replace them cause I really don't think there is any real fix to them at that point once they have loosened up that far to where they start whinning from use. Cause you start moving the pinion your wear pattern is going to move which ever way you move it and they you set your ring gear again. I dealt with that same vary issue on my car and when I got the ring gear set to the .006-.010 and I was right at .008 in 200 miles the gears went out. And was all highway miles on cruise control so they weren't getting beat on. When you get your gears that (example) 2.9xx number that is stamped on the pinion is the depth the pinion is suppose to be set at from the center of the axles. A lot of people told me just use the shim that cam out of the previous gear set and that most likely will be close for some gears but found out on my new set it was way off. And its just not worth it that you could get stranded not so close to home either and do more damage. I got lucky and my posi wasn't effected. I've been working with autos since my teens and went through auto mechanics school also and no one ever told me what that number stamped on there was for until last year when I went to change my gears.....would have made short work of things vs taking diff apart if pattern wasn't correct. So hopefully this info helps someone else out that didn't know that also.

As it says looking for a full set of OEM SSS rims if tires are shot no problem. Send me a pm if you have a set.

ROFL I can see I'm not going to live this Ferret thing down anytime soon.......

Wish I had some buddies around me that knew about audio and were into them. Get together with a case of beer and build or upgrade systems.

Yeah I see what your saying. I've done a lot of reading on them and from what I understand and I guess I can see what your saying about the spikes and in the end guess that is what I'm kind of saying also. When the bass hits it takes the energy out of the cap to power the amp......and then the batt fills it back up. From my understanding this is where we kind of disagree but from what I have read is that the cap can release the energy faster than the batt's can. And you say with enough batt's you can keep up with drainage that is because you have such a large amount of storage that you wont see a drop that is true, but then you have so much money into the batts and all the space they take. Im saying you can achieve the same end result with less batt's and use of caps. But also believe that you should have enough batt reserve to back your system up. I forget what they say you should have for a ratio of batts for wattage produced. And agree that a lot of people use them as band aids. And I'm saying with a cap the batt fills it back up.....but will admit that it wont fully be completely charged up because you are constantly having draw on it from the bass hitting when you have it cranked up. But your batt's are your reserve is how I look at it. discussions like that are really hard to talk about on a forum and can get kind of wordy

depending how good a converter you have you can have it gone through. They cut it apart with a lathe at the weld and can replace the internals. When I had my stock motor and SC I had them do some work to mine and it raised the stall to a vette's stall and did some upgrades while they were at it. Was nothing big was just the thrust bearing and couple other things. And was only 100 bucks or so but that was 15 years ago. I know if I have to rebuild the one in my car.....that is what Im going to do with that one. Have a 1200 dollar one with 5 disc lock up that you cant get anymore and way cheaper than a new one.

I would think you should be able to tweak the tune for some of it. I have been working on my car and finally got it so when your in town its pretty smooth and soft, but when you get on it .....its pretty firm once you get past quarter throttle. I did have it set up for firm shifts for town driving and I didn't like that. Shifting from reverse to drive or whatever it was just to harsh so I lightened it up for anything up to 1/4 throttle.

lol sorry about that.....one of those late night posts and that is one word that I have to think about and not the worlds best speller........Farad....that looks a little better and less stinky. I will agree with you to a point Tampa.....but in my experience I would use caps every time. I don't think that the batt's unload as fast as a cap does from the research I have done. And when you go get one of those big ones the 30+ farad. They do expand your energy source also. The people I have worked with said once you get past what your system needs its like adding extra batt's without all the extra weight and space. And it also depends on how loud you listen to it also. And you wont notice it as much with sub bass subs....like the earthquake Magma's which were the first of their kind. Now if you go with a more accurate sub like there CP 12's with some BR1070's where it hits you like a freight train..... then you will notice what I am talking about. We ran my system without them and you could tell that it wasn't as tight as they were with them. But we build my system for SQ but we got lucky and hit a grand slam and got one hell of a SLP system along with it. Also in agreement if your going to do competitions .....you need them. I posted my system and that system wouldn't loose charge either and I was at the point where I could have used an extra batt or 2 for what they recommended for the watt to batt ratio, but I didn't have the space for them so we added a 50 farad and they are cheaper than a batt and take up way less space. But now days with the D series amps you can get by with less charging system than you could with class AB amps. They were just coming out with the D series when we built mine. The more I listen to the stock system in these SSS's the more I like the cab for imaging and speaker placement. The Bose is actually pretty good sound for OEM. And darn near at the perfect imaging height. And I see they put the tweeters in the piller and face them towards the windshield and depending how tall you sit in the seat you really get some great highs out of them.

And like Tampa mentioned don't forget to add capacitor and extra batt. And depending if your going to bridge amps probably want to upgrade the alt also. Once you really get over 1000 watts rms it starts to add up. You want to have little extra energy supply hence the extra batt, but also want a quick discharge which helps keep your subs alive if you play it loud. Then the cap comes into play cause it can unload and charge back up quickly. Your subs will take a lot more also if the amp has the current it needs........ cause it wont be clipping. But you will also get a harder hitting bass with the correct amount current availability. Don't know how much knowledge you know about audio. Just putting it out there if you don't. And if you do...sorry about being wordy. I had 3600 rms and had 250 amp alt, 3 batt total including starter batt, and 4 ferrets of cap. But now days you can get 30- 50 ferret pretty cheap compared to back in the 90's you can never have to much cap.

Along these lines they said when I put the air ride in that it will ride a little lower than stock inch or two I take it. Will I be ok...... Letting air out so I can get into it and raising it back up to drive. They told me when air is out DO NOT move it. Take it is because the cv shaft isn't in far enough and that is what happens.

I had that happen once with my car and it's like what the heck did they catch me doing now.

is that single? I'm going twins.

My 600b on my T/A was loud as hell also......if they asked what it was I told them must be the idler pulley going out......lol If you have to ask you just don't have a clue!

Nice look to it!

Those look good!

My car has been in the works for awhile now, just need to put turbo system on it. But switching gears to the SSS once I get back in my business again here soon.

I looked for it in the forsale area also and couldn't find it....would like to get blue one when it comes around again

I am partially wrong there.......I was thinking more of twin setup......my bad. From all my research you don't want to over do it on the exhaust cause then it slows the velocity down and they say to ceramic coat the header also to help hold the heat in better. And or header wrap it.....but if you live up in northern part of the states and drive it in rain or winter......I think it would eat away at the headers if you use mild steel headers. So I'm going the coated and stainless. What I really want is the inside coated. On my car I'm going to do 1 3/4 log but the turbo 58 twins will be right off the log right behind the k member. On my truck thinking of 2" log cause it will be a 427 with twin 71's and should flow enough and do what they recommend for down pipes and to the rear of the car. And your correct on the turbo be more forgiving till you get out of its range.......kind of wish I had did turbo way back when instead of supercharger. Supercharger is a beast off the line even with a lil stock LT1....there was no traction with just 2 wheel drive. And you could still break them loose at 60 if you mashed it. Might just put my little 600b on my truck for kicks for the time being. Sorry I got a little off topic Just through some info out there....food for thought.

I agree with yeah if you don't find what your looking for.

That will do it......had procharger on my car and went at 70k before mine went out.......talk about long ride home at 30 mph and 200 miles away from home at 2 in the morning.

I'm with Aksss I would save up the money or get the parts over time and once you have them all then do it. From my experience I can tell you that you will want to put the boost to it to make up for the extra flow it will do with the heads and cam. And remember not to go to big on the exhaust for a turbo. When I built my LTx motor for my trans am I was doing 12 psi stock motor (9.0 cr) And then when I did my 383 10:1 cr with TPIS/ AFR heads and 224/230 114+4 cam I lost 10 psi........ yeah little disappointed that is was 2 psi (figured I loose some, thougth i'd be at 7-8 psi) Just comes to show that when the engine can flow better that it takes more air to make the same amount of boost. But it's gonna be way more powerful when I get it there. I had a procharger 600b on it and at 12 psi I was 2.8 charger pulley and crank pulley at 7.5 spinning it at 47k and when I get the crank pulley made it will be 8.5 and max it out at 62k and should be at 8-9 psi if I calculated it right.

Well mine is getting fix sooner than later now.....my dad just ran the 4wheel drive tractor into the back of the box. Spring time just go go go and not wait for someone to move it just so things like that don't happen and guess what....yip BINGO we have a winner!

I'm getting rid of the leaf springs.....it will be a total bagged kit as you say. I need it low to be able to get into it since I'm in a chair.

http://www.airbagit.com/v/techzone/fbss_install.pdf That is the PDF for the Bag kit and towards the end of the file is kind of shows the 4 link for this kit. Its kind of different than you think, It doesn't use a panhard bar.