Bigtoyz97

I seen you got one....but I have a red top optima in my car and it turns it over no problem in -15 sitting outside. And it will sit for weeks at a time without a problem.

So there are only two up for vote now? The Silver Beast and the Black Beauty?

Thinking I might just stick with the 427 probably not going to see over 7k so don't think I need to destroke it any........ I should have my plans finished here in a couple of days. Have one more phone call to make and should have a wrap on it.

I was just curious about it is all. But the article in that link brings up some interesting ways to give you little bit more time to react. But your right about putting money someplace else......just not worth the trouble you could get into. And most the states that make illegal are the ones I'm in so kind of puts it out of reach.

Was reading through the thread on the radar detectors and didn't want to take away from it. But has anyone had any doings with the jammers? Guess the K-40's and Escort one are actually suppose to work. Kind of curious as if they actually work. One of them jams for 10 sec and stops, giving you enough time to hit the brakes and not draw any interest on you.

I putty on top of the piston put gasket on torque heads down and rotate it couple of times take heads off and measure the putty to find your clearance.

I have had a fuel reg go bad on me before.......and do what you are describing. But I would put a gauge on it and see what it is doing. Does pressure slowly go down after its been sitting awhile or does it bleed back right away? And also if the pressure bounce's around a little could be a weak spring in the fuel reg. And what does it do when it is running and at idle, cruise, etc..... Just throwing some idea's for you to look for. On my S10 it always took a couple of primes cause reg got weak and wouldn't hold pressure for very long of a time. But it ran good once it was running. Set over night and you had to cycle the key a couple of times.

Think it was Mechman I was talking to, but if you do an external reg don't go over 14.5 (max) volt with 12 volt batt...........was told you will cook it.

I had read about the check balls after I had did my trans am rebuild. Had heard they were good improvement but didn't know that they wore out. I wouldn't have brought them up otherwise........sorry. Good to know cause I was thinking of replacing them on my trans am 4L60 this winter when I did the billet servo upgrade I've had laying around for years.

Jake is the one who I talked to also........gonna give him my business when it comes to that point also.

cant wait to see this come along.....good luck on your build

Just make sure to have a nice big table to lay things out as you take them out to help keep them in order. And a tranny vice is nice also but not a must. And there is some aftermarket check balls that are suppose to be better than the stock ones that don't deform and seal better also. Might be a plastic of some kind but you will see them on tranny sites.

Ok need some input as what you do. Planning on the LSx block and keeping the bore 4.125 for better sealing purposes. Was told to do STD deck for reliability reasons. Would you just do a 4" stroke or stroke it more? STD has a max of 4.250 stroke. I'm planning on callies billet crank, ultra billet rods, and wiseco coated pistons. The people I'm getting the parts from recommend the wiseco pistons cause they know them well and stand behind them cause they have done a few builds 1500+ boosted hp and they have held up well for them. If you have other good suggestions please go ahead and tell me. Its gonna be a daily driver but want to get into 1/4 mile at some point so want to do it once and do it well. Chase your input would be welcomed also since you've been there and done that. Like 600 or so hp for street and turn it up for the 1/4 mile. 4L80 tranny built with trans brake for tranny. Gonna keep the truck stock till I get everything built and do the swap all at once so I can continue to drive it up to that point. And one more question am I putting this in the correct area? Didn't know if it should go under Build since I'm not actually building it yet.

What I do for sub boxes is take a 1x1x length need and cut it in half diagonally and glue that in the corners also.

Ok at a point when I'm trying to figure out injector type high or low ohm? And will be going on LSx iron block with Fast XFI. I have read that the low ohm injector are more tunable. Any ideas or suggestions on the topic and why.

Wish you and your family's a safe Merry Christmas and a Better New Year. Patrick

I seen one forsale with 340k no rebuilds in it either from what they said.

I'd like to get a couple hoodie's if they are gonna be available still until Jan 1st.

Good luck with your cam. And when you find a guy like him ....they really loose you fast with all the info........cause that is a lot of info to take in. I've worked with Martin from Tick Performance and it is unreal what a person really don't know. Its not so much the duration and lift, it is at when the valve events happen is a lot of it. But not saying the duration and lift don't have anything to do with it. I'm going to have him help me with my turbo LSx cam when I get to it. For my LT1 boost motor it was 231/239 .562/.574 115+5 is what Martin came up with. And the one that is in there now is 220/230 .536/.496 114+4 and he said it was going to be way more efficient. Make more power and better mpg out on the highway. win win I'd say. And S/C and turbo cams are different also cause S/C'ers are self scavenging which I didn't know, and turbo's have a harder time of scavenging.

I was told to use a ANL fuse within 18" of the batt for your power wire for your system. The one (or should say two of them) were 200 amp ones. And then from there goto the caps and use them as distribution blocks. From the caps go to the circuit breaker fuse before the amp. And those are rated off of the amp draw. I had 6 amps and they each had their own circuit breaker off of the caps. I think you can get a 40 farad for couple hundred bucks now and probably take care of your light dimming. When they get that big....... you can kind of cheat and count them as an extra batt. They kind of act like a batt when you think about, they are fast charging/discharging devices is the only difference. And like highvoltamps said get a AGM for it. Specially if your gonna add a second one in the truck or someplace else. The wet cell batt's wont last long because of the vibs from the bass. But everyone has a different in how they want things to look. I personally try not to use distribution blocks, just more crap to deal with. And I always run grounds for audio straight from the batt. And how many watts is your system? Think they recommend 1 farad per 1000 watts of amp if I remember correctly.

Subscibed. I don't know if it pertains to LS motors but they say 10 psi of pressure for every 1000 rpms. And on my LT1 when up to temp I see 40 psi at idle but when I have the supercharger hooked up into the oil system it lowered to 20 at idle. And talked to several people and said that was plenty good for idle as long as it got over 40 psi and was stable. I have melling high volume and high pressure due to the supercharger I had on it and going to twin turbo's at some point. But without supercharger on I see 40 psi at idle and 60 psi at cruise and wot.

Subscribed cant wait to see how it turns out for you. I have a Vig 3200 stall 5 disc lockup in my trans am and love it.

I was having the same problem. A buddy of mine who is pretty sharp on that stuff says if you put a volt meter on and test the battery you should see .20 draw or less. Anything more than that something is on. After the computer kills the current I was still getting same thing .20. So had to go through and check all the electronics I put on and found out it was the MSD box. Even though one wire goes to batt. and they have a remote wire that gets put on a switched lead. It was not working correctly. So to fix the problem I just put a relay in and problem solved. As far as the guy who had car audio..... I would relay all the amps, DSP's, EQ's...... it just makes sure that the head unit has to be on for that stuff to really draw current no matter what.

The 14 bolt will be 3/8 shorter (from axle flange to axle flange) but that isn't the problem......... I don't think anyways. The spring perches are taller on the 14 bolt. I'm sure if you did a search you would come across some more info.

I don't know if it matters anymore or not. But I used one from the old firebirds that were turbo'ed that is 3 bar on my 97 LT1.