Black03SS_NJ

Email sent.

Sounds great, but it is in place of what were nice incentives. So in actual dollars, the warranty is costing the buyer $2000 or more in lost incentives.

Don't think I can make it all the way down there, but here's a pic of my SS at the museum when I was down picking up my GTO last summer. Maybe next time I'll actually have a chance to make it inside!

TTT - I won't turn down a reasonable offer.

Probably not going to be in your price range, but I'm probably going to be selling mine. Check out my garage and send me an email if interested.

Drove the '07 Av this morning and it looks like I will probably be ordering one in the next few days. Thus I've got about 6 weeks to sell the SS, so please let me know if there is any interest. I'd hate to have to trade this thing in.

I've suddenly got the bug for a new '07 Avalanche, and thus I'm thinking about selling my '03 SS with just about 37k miles on it. It's garage kept and is mint, has about 10 coats of Zaino. It's got close to $10k in mods on it including ARE 22s, 285/45 Toyos, brand new Baer Brakes (less than 1k miles), hawk pads, earl's lines, and super blue fluid. Mods are too extensive to list here (see my garage), but include PCMforLESS tune, Hypertech 160 stat, x-piped exhaust, Volant, Line-x, Hotchkis bars (brand new), and a Joe Gibbs spoiler (brand new). Properly maintained, and just switched to all Royal Purple fluids about 6 months ago. Would consider included hardwired Valentine One and Prodigy trailer brake controller if buyer is interested. KBB, Edmunds and NADA say that retail is 26,800, obviously not including mods. Given the current market, that's probably a little unrealistic, but at this point I'm just seeing if there's any interest. I'm driving the Avy tomorrow, so then we'll see how serious I need to get. Please email, post, or PM if interested.

I'm considering selling mine, mods are in my garage (link in sig). Going to need a bit more than $20k, though. I'm in NJ too.

I've had good luck with Zaino tire shine applied with a foam pad, and Stoner's aerosol tire shine. The Meguiars aerosol isn't bad either, but that tends to get all over during application, rather than while driving. Don't try to put that on while it's breezy.

Stoner's Invisible Glass + microfiber towel works well for me.

The only thing that comes with the Baer kit are the rotors and the brackets - not a single bolt or shim. Everything other than the brackets and rotors is stock. I'd probably call the caliper movement excessive, that's my concern. The caliper bolts are torqued to factory specs, BTW, which isn't easy with Torx bolts. All 4 of my GTOs had rear window issues - it's par for the course with GM A-bodies. The drain holes filled with dirt, water was held in the window channel and rotted, then water went in the trunk and rotted the trunk pan followed by the rear body mounts. I've yet to see a NE US car without this issue. I was going to go the LQ9 route with my PT car, but I just couldn't bring myself to put corporate power in a Pontiac. The other GTO owners would hang me. For what it cost me to build the 421, I could have had a new LS7 and change left over.

My Baer brakes, Hawk pads and Earl's lines have been on for about 1000 miles now and, for the limited investment, I'm impressed with the improved pedal feel and braking improvement. Here's my issue: I wasn't able to get the front calipers as tight on the brackets as they originally were. If memory serves, they are held on by size 60 torx bolts, which I got as tight as they will go. When they aren't too hot to touch, I can still wiggle both front calipers ever so slightly (with the truck parked, obviously). No problems at all out back. And I'm not sure if it's related, but even after extensive bleeding, I haven't been able to get the brake pedal to engage as high off the floor as it did with the stock brakes. I like the brakes to feel like they are "right there" when I hit the pedal, and I've got some travel I'd like to get rid of. There's been no noticeable effect on braking from the loose calipers, so I just want to make sure there isn't some other problem. Thanks for the help.

Actually, the flat-black hood could look cool if done properly. Ford and Dodge made it work in the '60s.

How about you just reimburse me for the $15 worth of tickets I bought and we'll call it even? Seriously though, congratulations, that's awesome. I'd blow it on a new ZO6 and a supercharged '07 Tahoe to tow it to the track.

I've towed that much with the SS, and embarassingly, with no trailer brakes. Now that I have them, I'd never tow something that big without them. But for 30mi, I'd say you'll be fine. I'd probably pick an odd time just to minimize traffic, maybe a Sunday evening or early AM. Might be a good time for a switch to synthetic trans fluid if you haven't already.

I've seen a white Tahoe SS in the Wilmington DE area, well done. Can't recall if it had the cladding, last time I saw it, it was dark out.

I really wanted to leave my wedding in the General Lee (I know someone who has an original from the show), but my wife nixed the idea. Can't say that I blame her. Tell me that wouldn't have been sweet with the tires spinning and dixie horn blaring...

This is an excellent suggestion. I always double-check my trailer wiring with a jumper box and a buddy. Before you go nuts rewiring, check your truck's trailer harness ground carefully. My uncle and I share a car trailer (he has a newer Z71) which I wired. Trailer electricals worked fine on my SS, but lights were screwey when hitched to his truck. Turns out his trailer harness ground was not making good contact with the frame. Everything worked fine after the ground was cleaned up, which is a testament to my wiring saavy.

Thanks for the tip - first thing I did. Don't you know on the way to the dealer this morning it started working again? So I'll probably just keep driving and make an appointment for diagnosis.

AC's been acting up lately, it wouldn't blow cold when the truck was still or going slowly. Before I could get it in to get looked at, it went out completely tonight. Fan still blows, but no AC. I'm guessing it's electrical, the temp on the auto climate is VERY bright, and when I cut it off altogether, the recirculate button stays lit. Oh well, I'll take it in first thing in the morning. Oh, and I just went over 36k yesterday, I'm at 36047 right now. Just my luck.

Pretty sure the different intake designs would prevent the use of Vette engine covers on an SS.

My understanding is that the 0% does not apply to the Duramax trucks - 1500 light duty only. And no '07 Tahoe/Suburban/Avalanche, and of course, no Corvette.

I hope the 4th time is the charm (5th if you count the stock wheels)!

Favorite? I'd have to say the original muscle car, the GTO. I like the early models best, but I can appreciate them all. Most beautiful, I'd have to say '63-'67 Stingray Coupes are the most appealling to look at.

SS part number is 2230. Best price I could find was $409.99 through the last TByrne group purchase, can't remember whether shipping was included or not. Install wasn't hard, but I just didn't have the time, so I had a friend do it. He charged me $80, not too bad.