adams2003

ummm...guess ive been on the wagon for over 2.5 years now just usually do her once in spring before too hot and once before winter too cold. thanks though bout time <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Just referring to the 10 different threads started about zaino the last couple of days. Ill admitt that I zainod my truck a couple days ago as well.

Slim, sounds good. I sent you a pm with my address.

Man, looks like everybody's jumping on the zaino bandwagon. There's definately a reason though, looks great.

Sorry dude, im gonna have to agree with them. But if you like it that's all that counts.

Man that really sucks. I hope you guys take them down in court.

Wow, that truck looks really familiar. Too familiar. Second best looking truck on the site.

There Ford lightning/ mustang 42Lb injectors that are actually 50lb injectors on the SS because of the increased fuel pressure we have compared to ford. Zippy helped me find them on ebay for $220. Here's a link to the auction. SVO injectors I bought the pigtails/risers needed to make them work on our trucks from Zippy for $60. I never installed any of it on my truck because I sold my blower. Im looking to get $275 for everything and ill take care of shipping. Here are some pics.

Link doesn't work for me. What did he get?

Oh ok. Does he have a radix?

Damn, I must be missing something here. Do you have a silverado ss or vho now?

The 4L60E has a standard output shaft and can break under hard shifts. The 4L65E output shaft is hardend and can also break from excessivly harsh shifts, but I only know of one ever breaking and it was because of the line pressure and shift timings he was using with the Zippy kit. From what I've found the weekest parts of the 65E in the case of the SSS trucks is the input drum (cracks right where the input shaft is pressed in), the pump (has been known to internally explode and fail), and the forward sprag (this is something that will break under a hard launch if you pre-load the trans too hard). As for the weight difference, if I recall from shipping the 80/85E is 50-75lbs heavier depending on torque converter choice. There is another advantage to the 80E that will be of a big help and that is the taller first gear. The guys running big power are running into traction problems and making the first gear taller will likely help the truck launch softer for the first 10 feet or so allowing it to get hooked and the suspension to transfer weight. The biggest drawback of the 80/85E is that it has a 4-7% higher parasitic drag meaning that you will lose some of your power to the tires when swapping to the bigger trans. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Im sure this will sound stupid, but if I go with a 4L80 will the input drum, forward sprag etc. be stronger or are they using the same ones from the 4L65? FLT has a 2.75 first gear set for there 4L80.Finishlinetrans 2.75 seems really tall, but I do plan on making a ton of torque so maybe I could take advantage of it. Would FLT's 300m input shaft be worth upgrading to as well? Would that shaft work with this kit? So 4-7% higher parastic drag with the 4L80, what kind of % increase would that equate to (an estimate) as far as power loss % to the wheels compared to a 4L65? Thanks again zip, you the man. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The 80E uses all together different parts from the 65E. You won't have to worry about those parts breaking. I would recomend just using the stock 2.48 gear that the 80E comes with as this will help with traction on the launch. Once you get into the 600hp and higher range the AWD that everyone loves actually begins to make it harder to hook than a 2wd with Cal Trac's and slicks. I am not familier with the input shaft from FLT and after my last encounter with Chuck I could care less if I ever saw another one of his products again. I'll never recomend anyone ever go see that **** for parts or a trans... the 4-7% higher parasitic drag is compared to the 65E. As an example if you had a 600RWHP truck with a 65E, you'd lose an estimated 24-42RWHP when going to the 80E. The upside to this is that with the 80E you can add parts to gain that power back and have less worry about breakage. For example if you were running a 150 shot of nitrous with your 65E, you could run a 250 or 300 shot of nitrous with a well built 80E and not have much worry about breakage. You pretty much can easily get back the amount of power loss from going to the 80E. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Wow, some strong feelings towards old chucky. I would like to ask what happened, but I better not. That's about what I was thinking as far as those power loss numbers go. But with the kind of power I wanna throw at it, I dont think it will matter to much. Ive heard that on the awd SSS we loose about 22% power to the wheels. I was thinking that with the 4L80 it would be around 27%, sound about right?

BE CAREFUL with his radix tune. I wouldn't run your truck hard until you can take a look at it with some tuning software. My truck and I believe Holty's had the PCM4less radix tune, and PE mode wasn't set to come on til 90% throttle. Also, I had about 10* too much timing in the lower RPM, higher load areas... Result, LOTS of KR and crappy performance. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have found that with his tuning as well as Allen and Jessie's. I've done tuning work with unhappy customers from them and found that to be on all 3 different tuners. I even seen one from Jessie that was on a radix where he actually did change the P.E. table, but only to 70%. The radix will get into boost by around roughly 40% and not running in the P.E. under anything more than 1-2psi of boost can be damaging to the engine and cause a major power loss. I've found that most of those trucks where the P.E. table is set incorrectly the trucks were running in the low octane table caused by spark knock under part throttle when the P.E. should have been there. In most cases the owner of the truck had no idea that they were losing so much power from the low octane table. Most just complained that the truck didn't have as much power as it should have under hard acceleration, but not wide open (such as 50-60% or so). Even if the wide open throttle tuning was correct, the pcm had already switched to the low octane table so it's not uncommon to find one only running 10 degrees of timing under wide open. I won't even go into how terrible I've found mail order tuning transmissin settings. It's enough to make me cringe... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I can second that. Zippy helped me gain alot more power and lower my KR from 8 to about 1 (before I sold the blower) over the previous tuner that I was using.

What do you guys recomend for filters? Ive been running AC Delco's.

The 4L60E has a standard output shaft and can break under hard shifts. The 4L65E output shaft is hardend and can also break from excessivly harsh shifts, but I only know of one ever breaking and it was because of the line pressure and shift timings he was using with the Zippy kit. From what I've found the weekest parts of the 65E in the case of the SSS trucks is the input drum (cracks right where the input shaft is pressed in), the pump (has been known to internally explode and fail), and the forward sprag (this is something that will break under a hard launch if you pre-load the trans too hard). As for the weight difference, if I recall from shipping the 80/85E is 50-75lbs heavier depending on torque converter choice. There is another advantage to the 80E that will be of a big help and that is the taller first gear. The guys running big power are running into traction problems and making the first gear taller will likely help the truck launch softer for the first 10 feet or so allowing it to get hooked and the suspension to transfer weight. The biggest drawback of the 80/85E is that it has a 4-7% higher parasitic drag meaning that you will lose some of your power to the tires when swapping to the bigger trans. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Im sure this will sound stupid, but if I go with a 4L80 will the input drum, forward sprag etc. be stronger or are they using the same ones from the 4L65? FLT has a 2.75 first gear set for there 4L80.Finishlinetrans 2.75 seems really tall, but I do plan on making a ton of torque so maybe I could take advantage of it. Would FLT's 300m input shaft be worth upgrading to as well? Would that shaft work with this kit? So 4-7% higher parastic drag with the 4L80, what kind of % increase would that equate to (an estimate) as far as power loss % to the wheels compared to a 4L65? Thanks again zip, you the man.

How much power do you guys think the 4L60 output shaft can handle? Also if the ouput shaft broke, what could the affects be to my truck?

I used microfiber towels the other day when I zainod my truck and they worked fine.

Links not working.

What are you getting paid to do again.

That's pretty good.

Your friend is in for a rude awakening. Turtle wax is crap IMO compared to Zaino.

Im pretty sure I read on the directions that the z5 is for swirls and scratches and the z2 is the final glossy wax. Im sure it doesn't really matter too much, but I did notice today that the z5 does work a little better on small scratches etc. I cant really tell if the z2 actually shines more than the z5 though.

I like that body kit alot.

Arent you supposed to use the z5 before the z2?

Man that's sucks ass. I hate cops like that, my GF had a simular incident about 3 months ago. After some a-hole side swiped her and spun her out in to two other cars the cops tried blaming her for the accident. Saying that really didn't happen, that she was lying. By the way, does your brother still have his SS? Or did he trade it in for the GTO?

Honestly it doesn't take much more money than regular waxing - it's the time investment that's the killer but it is so worth it. You can also get really good results using Der Shiney Stuff as well, it's very comparable and a bit less expensive. Mr. P. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Really its the time that comes into play. Im on my second day of Zaino'ing my truck, but its definately worth it.