TurbochargedBerserker

Update with the manifold installed: For return systems: Updated Parts list: Adapting the stock fuel lines: 3/8" x 4 3/4" Quick Disconnect "sending unit repair line (NAPA 730-4938) 5/16" x 4 3/4" Quick Disconnect "sending unit repair line (NAPA 730-4937) 3/8 tube to Female -6 AN adaptor (EARLS 165106ERL) 5/16 tube to Female -6 AN adaptor (EARLS 165156ERL) Tools needed: Mini Tubing cutter (NAPA service tools 2107) (2) -6 AN line wrenches For the fuel rails: (3) Russel Endura 3/8 pipe to -6AN 90* adapator... pn RUS-660841 --> 2 for the crossover line, 1 for the feedline connection on the end of the ds rail (1) Russell Endura 3/8 pipe to 6AN straight adapter... pn RUS-660461 --> connects the FPR to the end of the pass side rail 17" length of -6 AN line --> to connect the return line to the 90* fitting on the bottom of the FPR FPR of your choice (1) 90* -6 AN Male / Male elbow --> connects the FPR to the return line (1) -6 AN plug --> to cap the other feedport on the FPR. Some pics: View of the feedline connected to the end of the DS rail. In the fore ground is the extension to allow the return line to connect to the other rail (read line). View of the FPR connected to the return line, with feed line in the bg. Close up of the FPR connection to the return line. Wide view of the FPR and lines connected to the factory lines. Front cross over line. Sorry some of the pics suck -- huge humidity today, too much for the camera it seems.

Axles, brakes calipers, caliper brakets, axle plates... I ordered my housing from GM. It was from an 03-06 2500 HD / 01-06 1500 Crew.

31 isn't old! I was talking to a friend of mine who's my age (38) and we've decided that 45 is the new 24!

Everyone knows Scandinavians build fast trucks ;) Man that's one bad ass ride.

Will do. Gotta take one

Hey Tony, I posted a how to with part numbers on converting the factory lines to after market rails. Real easy.

Slow down fellas I have one on the truck at the moment and do not need an elbow hehe http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/sh...ighlight=victor

Have you guys looked at the Vic Jr? Very easy install. No mods to pulleys, water pumps, etc. Plus it's a spider design, so "less heat soak" (although I'm with Jon on that part).

If you're still thinking about heads, give Richard at west coast cylinder head a call -- real down to earth guy with some killer head programs.

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They also don't look like stubbies (which means an easy mod to the fuel rail mounting points).

Sounds like they are not FI tuners. Make sure you find someone who has some FI experience and get another dyno tune imo.

I hear that. I'm the king of down time for the truck lol. 408 + juice sounds pretty fun FI can be a PITA to tune, but an in-person or dyno tune sorts all that out in a hurry. Just something to keep in mind in case you get that bug again in the future ;)

Maybe this is why you are getting tuning related replies: But no worries man, we're all just bummed for you and trying to help sort stuff out. FI and tuning are hand in hand and I would have asked who did your tuning without the quote above ;). What are your plans now? Someone mentioned going back to stock? This could be an opportunity to go big if looked at in the right frame of mind

ouch! That happened 4 months ago? Who did the tuning?

Who did the tune?

sold

New turbos = new injectors for me, so someone gets a nice deal: Delphi 75lb/hr (at 43.5psi -- they become 86.6lb/hr at 58psi) low impedence injectors. They require a peak and hold injector driver. I used the acceleronics versafueler module and found that these injectors idle better than moto 60 high-zs. These injectors will support 1100 hp NA (BSFC = .50, IDC = 80%), 1000 hp SC (BSFC = .55, IDC = 80%), and 850 turbo (BSFC = .65, IDC = 80%). All hp numbers are flywheel. These run $479 brand new. They have around 1000 miles on them. $350 OBO shipped.

That article is silly. As I mentioned in the other thread: there are no transmitters in EDRs. The only transmitters on cars are Onstar, Lojack, your CB, and your cellphone. No one can read your EDR as you drive by. No one can read your EDR without a court order in most states. Not to mention that an EDR doesn't know who the driver is. At any rate there are much easier ways for the big nasty Orweillian State to start autoticketing you, and ones must people believe they must have -- cellphones. BTW, we all have EDRs in our trucks now... Oh yeah, everyone with Onstar or a Nav system has GPS too.

Our trucks do 5 seconds. I believe some fords do 20 seconds, but I haven't seen any GM vehicle that records that long (not that I've looked hard). No EDRs record 100 key cycles -- some PCMs may take data for that long on diagnostic tests, but that's a different thing. As far as I am aware, no car I know of is equipped with an accelerometer, or a gyroscope, so no car can figure out if you are doing .5 gs or not

Wrenching on my 92 GT... Did longtubes, lifters, heads, cam, pushrods, injectors and intake manifold. First I was putting on the water pump (after several days working on the car in the Florida summer heat) and snapped a wp bolt. Got it back out with an easy out and moved on... I was on the last intake bolt, and snap... bolt broke off below the level of the intake. I freaked out a little because it wasn't a clean break at all (didn't look like the easy out would grab) and the rest of the bolt looked like it was down in the brand new head... After I got the intake off, it was an easy fix with vice grips. Then I remembered they were torque to yeild and ordered a new set lol

Yep thats what I did with the tank too. That's why the fire freaked me out a bit hehe

Read your how to before I started ;) I have an punch for my air hammer, so I may not try the hammer bash unless the punch is a pita. BTW the guys on PT.net recommend cutting a cross-hatch or two in the rivet heads then attacking them with an air chisel to get whatever remains.

Just something to note: These boxes record the last 5 seconds of data. They don't record what you did at the drag strip, unless your run was 5 seconds ago. They don't record what you did yesterday or last week. They only useful information ANYONE can get out of them is what happened in the last 5 seconds of driving before the airbags deployed. Can it be removed? Not if you want your airbags to work. The airbag controller uses the information gathered to deploy the air bags properly. IMO there is no reason to panic. If you're worried about government surveilance, they can figure all this stuff out from your cellphone anyway (with a warrant -- your location within 3 feet can be tracked in to the 911 system, it wouldn't be hard to calculate your speed give the the time it takes you to get between two points). And that's only if the satelites (which can read the number you are dialing off the screen of your cellphone) don't happen to be tasked on your area at the time. I guess if they can't figure enough out from those two sources, they can get a warrant for Onstar and lojack data. BUT you gotta ask yourself: Just how important am I to the federal government? Unless you are a big time criminal, you aren't even on their radar... At any rate the data has to be read from the black box which has a limited time buffer an **no transmitters**. Solution for thos feeling especially paranoid? Leave the truck idling when pulled over, or put your blinker on and take 5 - 10 seconds to get to the side of the road. Then keep track of how many officers demand to see your black box.

I don't know wtf is going on... I've spent 4-6 hours cumulatively (mostly with the air hammer) and don't have a SINGLE rivet head off. I've tried various things on three different rivets, all to no avail. So far the only thing that seems to work is a grinder and I'm a little leary of throwing sparks all over the plastic gas tank lol. I do have one rivet head about 50% off (cut off wheel mostly) but can't get to the rest of it with the COW. WTF? Using a torch with a cutting tip, I hit the rivet and started to heat it up... IMMEDIATELY all the effin wax starts to smoke and sputter all over the effin place. I get the rivet hot enough and hit the o2 jet: Poof the frame rail bursts into flame lol (all that sputtering wax -- god damn those chevy designers to waxy hell). Crouching in the wheel well, this seemed bad to me especially right next to the gas tank Beat that out with my glove and kept at it a bit. The stupid rivet isn't even scarred... These rivets ARE carbon steel aren't they? How the hell did you guys get them out? Grinder?