TurbochargedBerserker

did you figure anything out on this there beefcake <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Got side tracked getting the front axle dropped (gd mfing ball joints on the center section froze Finally rented a gear puller and drove the damn things off). I *think* it hooks up to the fuel tank?

Wow thanks for the nice links SS LS1. Awesome!

Wheel time... I really need 20x12 to fit the width I'd like to run.

This is commonly called the "purge canister" or the "vent canister". Basically it recirculates gas fumes back into the manifold so they can be consumed. I'm not sure what it hooks up to at this point, but will know in the next few days ;)

Would a housing from a 1999-2001 2500 work?

Please see: http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/sh...905#post3382905 for some mock ups

Well, just got off the phone with 2 other custom wheel shops... Both say 20x12 with 345s will fit the truck no problem as long as there is no camber with the planned 4" drop. Of course, if they don't they recommend I "ebay them" lol This is getting more frustrating the more 'experts' I talk to, rather than less lol

Hey Krambo can you take a shot from the rear showing the clearence between the tire and the spring? Thanks, E

Input please ;) http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=368724

DOH! They will stick out about 1.5"... Did some more measurements and spoke to a custom wheel shop. We have 13" of clearence back there which means: 10 inch rims (which are really 11"??) and a 305 tire is the max without finagling.

Hm... I just called Advanced Driveline here in town -- they are the guys who rebuilt my rear end after the hit-n-run. It has: Eaton gears, Mosier 30-spline axles in the 10-bolt case. They recommend going to a Detroit locker and keeping the 10-bolt until it breaks, or going with a 14 bolt 9.5" case and a locker again. His main concern with the 14 bolt is the weight, and said that if I don't need it, it's a waste of weight. Makes sense, but I don't really want to have another link in the drive train that I'm just waiting on a break in to put in the right thing lol. Switching to the locker and microniting the gearset is ~$525 and we can step up to a 35 spline axle. Good news is the 14 bolt set is within $50 of that.

f*ck yeah!! I've missed being able to do a righteous burnout

They also consider it a "semi floater" I installed an Eaton LSD with 400lb. springs and carbon clutches. It works bitchin and wouldn't trade it for any POS locker (nope not even a detroit) If you were to find the 400lb springs are not enough they have 600lb springs and 800lb springs. I find the 400lb springs to be perfect for the street if I go slow or normal speed around a corner it will allow it to slip if I nail it around a corner I get a bit of lock up, from a dead stop it will always spin both. IMO the 14 bolt is the best thing GM has done for the trucks. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hmmm.... I was looking at a trutrac for a bajillion dollars... Guess I'll call around tomorrow.

Yep. A Stage Parish (hehe) from Chuck.

Yep I'm thinking of 345/30-20s in the rear and 245ish 19s up front. I need to meaure for back spacing tomorrow, but at first glance, and using the centerline of the stock tires, it looks like these will fit.

Yeah My left one needed to be replaced (was under warranty though). I can sell you a really low mileage set if your not under warranty. I replaced mine with 2wd hubs, so I have a set here. They have about 500 miles on them <{POST_SNAPBACK}> what was the reason for the 2wd instead of 4wd hubs?did you replace the whole assembly or just the bearings? thanks <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'm in the process of converting to 2wd (too much power for the AWD).

Is that a whipple? Do you have whipple electronics and the extra injectors?

These trucks are 10-bolt G-locs, correct? In other words, I need a new rear diff for 2wd mode?

Yeah My left one needed to be replaced (was under warranty though). I can sell you a really low mileage set if your not under warranty. I replaced mine with 2wd hubs, so I have a set here. They have about 500 miles on them

Will 345/40-20s fit? How about 345/30-19 What's everyone think of Michelin Pilot Sports? To be clear: I know they won't fit the rims. I'm talking custom rim with the right backspacing wearing this tire fitting into the wheel well.

Amen ;)

BTW those connectors are glued in place. You can use a heat gun to loosen them up (but don't melt the plastic!).

10 MINUTES?!?! You must work for a nascar pit crew Ben! It took me all of an hour and I didn't even get a break! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Got mine off in 30 minutes, and disassembled the fuel rails as I went. It gets faster the more you've messed with it

Nope. Summit for the Earl's stuff.

There are a few vendors out there charging around $140 for this mod. It really chapped my 4$$ as I knew the parts were probably worth $50. In addition, one vendor is telling people to cut a fuel line... Anywho, this is the method to convert the factory fuel lines to -6 AN fittings so you can use aftermarket rails. All in all this mod will cost around $50, depending on pricing at your local autoparts store, and where you get a short length of -6 AN line to connect the two rails in front. Parts list: 3/8" x 4 3/4" Quick Disconnect "sending unit repair line (NAPA 730-4938) 5/16" x 4 3/4" Quick Disconnect "sending unit repair line (NAPA 730-4937) 3/8 tube to Female -6 AN adaptor (EARLS 165106ERL) 5/16 tube to Female -6 AN adaptor (EARLS 165156ERL) Tools needed: Mini Tubing cutter (NAPA service tools 2107) (2) -6 AN line wrenches And away we go... Quick Disconnects: Take the QD and cut it close to the bend: Once it's cut, unscrew the red end of the Earl's adaptor, and remove the little brass ring inside. Slide the red end on to the QD pipe, and the place the brass ring inside (orientation doesn't matter). Making sure to keep the assembly towards the end of the pipe, thread the blue end into the red end (pinching the brass ring between them) and tighten using the AN wrenchs. Be careful not to over-tighten! Repeat for the other tube. Once both adaptors are built, slide the quick disconnects into the factory recievers and viola: Once the intake is installed, connect the feed line to the end of one fuel rail (I chose the passenger side) and the return line to the return port from your FPR. A single -6 AN line is required to act as the cross over line between the front of the two rails. I will update this with pics of these last steps as the pics become available. Special thanks to Slowhawk at Dez racing for helping me with the name of the quick disconnect tubes ;)