TurbochargedBerserker

Ben, if your injectors where set at the adjusted flow rate (for the 65psi), you should be able to reset your IFR and keep pretty close to the same VE. If you left the IFR set for 58psi and tuned out the richness with the VE, you really want to redo the VE table anyway.

Great to hear Greg! About that 40ish woman... RUN!

LOL. My wife laughed and then said "that's horrible!"

1slow01Z71 used an eagle 4.1" crank and had some serious issues with it -- think it went to the machine shop twice and had to be be welded on in the end...

This is a complete conversion package only at this point. Will not work on a coil spring truck without additional parts! What you get: NVG149 transfer case (bolts directly to a 4L60E or 4L65E) SSS rear drive shaft front drive shaft front axle with 4.10 gears mounting hardware for the axle (has a little arm on the passenger side that bolts to the frame -- you need to replace the long bolt) front axle shafts front 4wd hubs with less than 500mi (replaced under warranty) stock fasteners minus the long bolt mentioned above) All parts except the hubs have 15k miles and are in perfect working condition. I converted to 2wd due to power levels. $1199 OBO. Shipping paid by the buyer (likely will require fedex freight). SERIOUS inquiries, PM for shipping quote please

Polished Garrett GT-67 (good for ~650 hp) with around 3k miles -- SOLD Flange = T04E Turbine is a P-Trim Impellor is 67mm, with a 3" inlet and 2" outlet Turbine A/R is .96 Non-polished Garrett GT-70 (good for ~750-800hp) with around 2k miles -- SOLD Flange = T04S Turbine is a P-Trim Impellor is a 70mm, with a 4" inlet and a 2.5" outlet Turbine A/R is .96

Leave the stock heads alone, IMO -- they are great straight out of the box. If you land a windfall and have extra cash, buy a set of aftermarkets.

Nice build Adam -- general ballpark, what will the motor cost?

Same thing they told beserker. If you don't beat on it everyday...who knows? I would guess your MPG is going to be about 11. Mine is around 12 with moderate driving habits. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No one told me 600 -- my build was an experiment to find the max hp a 65 could take. I believe Chuck steers everyone wanting more than 500rwhp to an 80E with good reason. Mine lived about a year and 1/4 counting Orlando heat (and some days last summer tranny temps hit 210ish sitting in traffic), and when I pulled it still had great clutches, bands and most of the hard parts (the tabs broke I htink).

Yeah I've always liked black on black, but was unsure how it would look on a red truck. Makaveli had their wheel designer do some mockups (what you see above) to give me a better idea what it would look like on a red truck. I'm really diggin it... Plus it will match the black accents I have already

I like the black so far. Don't mind the funky wheel -- they tried to simulate the drop on the truck hehe

When I think 408 and 18psi I keep hearing the Tim Allen "Man Grunt" noise. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I rewired it!

The reason people say the lq9 is no good for boost is because it has high compression (10.1:1) and generally speaking, this limits the amount of boost you can run. HOWEVER, with something like a magnusson radix that is going to put out 10psi-ish max, it's about perfect. Also, any FI that you are going to keep under 10psi, it's a great setup -- loads of power. A 402-408 adds ~40 ci of displacement, which means more power NA, or FI, just build the motor (or have built) to suit your plans. For example, the LQ9 in stock form puts out 345 crank HP. A built 408 is probably in the 500-600 range at the crank (depending on compression etc).

Exactly. I made my 600hp run on motron 60s @14 psi. They were just too tight for the 18psi I was aiming for.

Yeah, that second post he mentions he was at 90-95% IDC with the 57s. AIR, 90% is flat maxed (90% means open .9 of the time and the injector needs the other .1 to open and close -- 80% is a much better IDC target -- it allows you some room).

I didn't think he hit 18 until he put in the 96ers.

I installed them at the same time. I'll have to look at the other side. Oh and I forgot to mention that this is all with the truck in the air and the pass side has the shock out (stylin concepts sent the 2wd shocks) while the other side still has the stock shock. Ok this is probably normal based on what you said above, but I'll check out the bars and such anyway ;) Thanks for the help Jon!

Thanks Jon -- about where would the arrow be? It did go together it just still feels loose hehe. I'm wondering if I got the arms in too tight (espeically the upper).

How much boost are you guys gonna run? 60's should take you upwards of 13-15psi at a reasonable IDC with your set up I'd think.

First, don't trust your electronic gauges guys -- they have +/- 5psi variance in most of them (straight from the manufacturers mouths btw) and are affected by ground loops, etc. Giggle your ground on the sender around and see if it changes the gauge reading. Put a mechanics gauge or a mechanical gauge on the truck and get a base line. If it is 57-58psi at idle, call it good, and keep your eye on the variance with your gauge. Your truck won't be at 10.5psi with low fuel pressure, but it pays to check everything out imo.

Start here imo: http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=356429

I put my suspension back together today and ran into a weird thing. The passenger side got new ball joints (which translates to a new upper control arm and a new ball joint pressed into the lower) and as a result I had the passenger side torsion bar completely off the truck. When I reassembled it, I put the upper on, then the lower and then put in the torsion bar. I went berserker-tight on the hinge points of the control arms. Here's the weird part. As I put the torsion key in on that side, there was 0 tension on the key -- The key was parallel-ish to the crossmember, but I didn't need the gear puller *at all* to reinstall the key. With the key reinstalled even at the previous tension adjustment (which was more than the other side btw), I can move the bolt side to side which pulls the key around. I can't do that on the other side (which did not have the torsion bar removed or the control arms) at all. I removed the key again and tried installing it rotated another hex-face, but then the key sticks out of the crossmember about 45* and didn't seem like it would be easy to get the gear puller on there. The other thing is that it doesn't seem like the torsion bar is doing much to support the c-arms. Now, I didn't put the wheels back on yet, so obviously haven't set the truck on the ground. Sound fishy to anyone or is this to be expected until the weight of the truck hits it? BTW, beltech 2" spindles and beltech 1-3" keys were installed.

Just what the title says ;) please post em up

No idea what I'm doing with it yet.

For Kenne Bell, see the Whipple Twin Screw entry.