04CHASE

wow man hopefully works better for you , my bro n nlaw just went through the same thing where his friend borrrowed his truck , crashed it and the adjuster came out and gave hom decent cash to where it will now have a long travel kit.

i have the intention on putting some custom 427 twin turbo emlbems i had made on my goodmark cowl when i get it repainted , i had them custom made in the ss silverado font but it sucks since my motor will now be a 436

still unsure why i lost the headgaskets , it could have been a big boost spike which is doubtful , the twin walrbos could have been on there way out and not have been enough but i have done multiple pulls an the afr has been spot on . so im doing a few things there and going with a lot more fuel . the reason i tore the entire motor down was from the previous yank failure when it balloned , it pushed the crankshaft into the block resulting in a worn thrust bearing . so lucky i did do this other wise i would have been spending another 4500 on new crank and block. it wasnt a big deal just doing it right. you can continue to use your stock parts and have unreal results on the dyno , until you put down some big numbers at the track and set some records im not impressed. anyone can make a spectacular dyno number . ill continue to use quality parts so if i do have a failure i dont loose my entire motor and rather a gasket . but at these power levels it only takes a millisecond to have a failure and it happens reguardless of who and what you know. you as anyone should know this . ill be back and bigger by the end of the summer.

ill see you guys next year with my ss , im so pissed i had to work instead of attending the event . congrats to your wife greg i had a feeling she would do well.

wow it cant get much worse than that. sucks ass man . something similar happened to my bro n law on friday as well. he let an employee of his go pick up a load for his shop , the dam kid ended up smashing his tundra into a nice ass boat headed to the lake for the weekend and a mercedes suv , totaled the tundra , and the guys boat. i had to let him borrow my truck so now im truckless as well. at least your safe brad , time to get some upgrades to the ss .

dam i bet i would have dominated that event , oh well next year for sure. what were the winners times in each category? 0-60 and 1/4 specifically?

looks like some clean black trucks , i wish i could have made this event looks like it would have been cool to meet a big portion of the members. should have had it in ca , we had spectacular weather 78-82 the past three days with sunshine. ive been taking full advantage and doint yard work all of them

dougs cutouts are the ones i have used and mine do not leak after 4-5 years of using and using them . they are all astainless with a different style of opener. though they make them differently now and should work similar but able to fit in tighter spots . they will cost you though. the reason the others leak is there has to be some clearance for the "butterfly" to open and getting it to seal will require some sort of gasket to rest against when they are closed. which is non existant to withstand the temps they see. the dougs have springs and ball bearings to keep the plate sealed against the opening. which works alot better , not perfect but you will not hear them leak.

looks legit man , i wish i could join you guys . i just wish i had my truck to drive for the summer , its down for the count right now .

No I never did . Id be willing to bet the wilwoods wil stop a bit better bigger front rotors which may actually hurt with more rotating weight but more surface area to grab so it would be pretty even but wilwood uses a 4 piston rear while I have the larger 2 piston rear . I have considered doing a rear z06 caliper but I do run drag radials and have to brake swap when changing wheels. So keeping just the front changable isnt too bad. I have actually got the process down so well that I can bleed the brakes by myself and get all the air out. I was pleasantly sursprised from when I put the 6 pistons on that I got some air out I didnt know was there . The truck stops immaculate right now Sent from a pay phone

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=221367

got the motor tore down and inspected , everything looks amazing . the pistons are very clean (thanks to methanol) and it appears i lost both head gaskets not sure when it was or how long they have been like that but i did find some other things im glad i did . rich tuning will eat spark plugs and i needed to replace about half of them so i definately was loosing power. i am actually learning how to build the motor and doing it all myself with some pointers from a my friend/owner of cbm. its really not too bad but just to be safe im going to tear it completely down and replace all bearing and clean all the passages. as i found some debris in the pickup from a hack job seal job the trans shop did replacing the rear main . im ordering new cometic mls gaskets tomorrow and he has all the clevit bearing in stock , i may be doing a little modifying to the headers on my turbos as well but still unsure as i really only have a week and then a week to break in and beat on .

instead of re wiring or adding resistors you can just change out your flasher unit for an electronic unit.

gaskets are custom since it has 6 bolt heads. it also uses 1/2 studs in the main head stud which is alot bigger than what comes stock on the LSX block . i had to work late today so no further progress. tomorrow should have it all torn down and have a solution .

sounds like a bad ground imo. there is a few , try checking out the one under the driver seat on the frame . that is a common spot to get a bad ground and it goes to the bcm.

well bad news and good news , bad news is i lost a head gasket , m i tested for hydrocarbons in the coolant as well as some heavy tell tale signs white smoke from the exhaust and smell of coolant . i know why it happened though im just surprised it took this long . the good news is i got the entire truck tore down today and the motor is already out. im pretty proud of that , after getting off @ 3pm i went and got er done . im having some help from some friends at cbm here ( good friends shop) and he was nice enough to have one of his best guys pull the turbos out for me so all i had to do was the intake and motor . not bad for one day . tomorrow ill have the motor tore down and head gaskets ordered. i was also chasing a weird oil pressure issue on start ups so it was inevitable it had to come out . hopefully no scores though. im pretty sure the bottom end is fine , just replacing head gaskets is going to be enough. ill also get a chance to inspect the mains and rod bearings which i expect to look great. as far i saw the intake ports were absolutely spotless , not a touch of carbon build up . gotta love meth injection. with any luck ill have it running again by next week.

thanks guys i actually have some not so fun work ahead of me . it seems i have my first big bug to work out , turbos are coming out as well as heads. seems i lose a head gasket after some spirited driving . good thing is i know exactly why it happened and everything should be fine . just have to get it back together asap to make truckin throwdown. should have it all apart by tomorrow and know exactly what im up against.

great idea but good luck getting any clutch to hold with the weight of the truck , maybe driving it like a sissy but any spirited driving even on a stockish ss i dont see any clutch holding up

ive had one locked recently and still no recourse or getting it pinned as i asked. guess its ok to be a thief .

pm sent

i give you props on one thing , you have your 408 running consistant for a long time and thats hard with a built motor , but man upgrade your dam pump and no more excuse's . you have a scsb with a 408 and nitrous , 13's is sad . people with ecsb are running that with a 5.3 w a cam . we know you can do it but just havent seen it yet man . get a pump and tune it for a 200 shot and have some real fun.

and check it ladies and gentlemen the first ever weight reduction i have done , this is the stock exhaust heat shield under the bed , it weighs about 1.5 lbs ROFL i did get a chance to weigh the truck and without me and no gas (1/8 tank) id say with me and the gas i race with (1/2-3/4 tank) 5700 wouldnt be out of the question which is a dam pig imo its still quick enough to take this car out , it was my first real kill and it was a dam slaughter , its a challenger srt-8 with a widebody conversion that through the wrong rev at the wrong truck , i had about 5-6 legnths on him after he got the jump in 3 seconds or so . he quickly exited the freeway with his head hung low. he soundled like he was magnacharged but with the cutouts open the turbos probably had him saying omfg and last but not least , not truck related here is my new tool ill be using to make some way cool stuff another craiglist steal , i got this for cheaper than i could turn it in for scrap (it weighs 2k+ lbs) and it looks and works like new . ill be posting the 4 link build and bose lux upgrade soon . also the best part of everything posted here , i have done every single thing , no one got paid but the people selling the parts. god thats a good feeling. jason , i love your sig BUILT NOT BOUGHT "

now on too the interior mods , i went with a bit more hydrodipped carbon fiber , defrost vents,homelink addition to the overhead, rear seat belt covers,seat controls,e-brake handle, and the suicide door overhead latch covers. I also added dual aeroforce gauges (thanks to the owners for the help on their product which is something everyone should have) , i added some custom SSS emblems to them for a little custom look as well as installing a homelink console since im getting new garage doors finally. I also added the stock lighting for 194 bulbs(used leds) that came in the 99-02 trucks that gm deceided to delete in 03 that go in the foot area of the driver and passenger. I had some suede from my previous interior make over and thought the passenger airbag would look great covered to match the rest of the interior. (dash bezel wasnt fully seated) i also added a new cluster since mine was broken in a previous situation with a bad seller/installer 140mph and 7k rpms with blue led back lighting i then was so upset about that deal i bought the led's and soldering equipment and did the conversion myself , which is not hard but time consuming if you do it right and add extra led's to avoide hot spots . i also added some other touch's i havent seen yet such as using red rectangle led's to heated seat buttons when they are on ( i love little details) (top was stock led's and lower is the new red ones) installed (ac controls with lots of extra leds (notive the pic with it apart and lots of led's , a stock one only has 3 bulbs per side i had 4 hrs into this part alone hard to see in this pic but this is the added footwell lights but it makes a big difference this is the part you need to do this , just tap into your stock lights(small box under the drivers footwell , remove the cover and the bottom lower wire(black and grey is what you need ) notice i did not do the stock radio , i just picked this up on craiglist , its a escalade tnr lux nav i will be added the lux amp as well i only paid 300 bucks for it with the gps antenna and nav disc so i cant loose my 6 disc changer was also damaged in that last transaction that went south so i couldnt load/eject or play any disc's , i just got the 6 disc changer to go in the lower center console cubby (stock mounts) as well , and im still in search of the lux amp to complete that . ill be doing a write up on it as well since you get alot more bass from the stock bose with a better amp and head unit . ive always wanted more sound but no aftermarket stuff . this will get me both and beleive me the lux upgrade is well worth the sound . ill be doing the led upgrade on both of these as well. although i have tested the nav screen and it has blue led's already.

ok so i have been putting a ton of time in the SS again . ive done alot including getting ripped on my interior and then getting fed up with other have learned to do it all by myself. first i did some color changing , powdercoated alot of parts, leanred how to r&r brake caliper , lost a thumbnail learning to remove pistons (use a 2x4 in the caliper or a piston compressor when blowing them out with air) had to re seal all of them and remove all powder coat which isnt to hard but must be careful with the stripper and not ruing your new coating. i also had some chrome on my wheels chipping so i deceided to change them to all black and make the brakes pop with the gm orange . i also changed the shopman bowtie to all black and thought it would look good with the added orange accent's, also powder'ed the dam lug nuts and center caps. needed some new rubber so i broke down and bought the 305/40/22 bfg kdw tires which are freaking awesome ive still not finished the 4 link but that is about half way done(coil overs are the threaded body qa1's im using but without a spring) the custom brackets ill be using are cut and on the way , i just need alot of time to measure , measure and measure more to set up the anti squat just over 100% to get the rear of the truck lifting or staying exactly where it is on a hard launch to keep weight on the front to help the front grab as well as pushing the rear axle into the ground for traction . ill start with suspension i ditched the mcgaughy knuckles for djm control arms (upper and lower) stock knuckles , heim tie rods and all new pitman and idler arms w pivot assembly , the new idler is also forged and not cast although imo it wont make a big difference but should outlast the stocker by far. i also swapped in double adjustable qa1's (adjustable rebound and compression) so i can set them to not lift for launching at the strip , i previously had limit straps and this should do even better and be much easier to adjust as well as being good on the strip and on the road course. next was the rear suspension as well as me wanting to go a bit lower to help get the center of gravity down to help in the corners. dropping one more link on the hanger got me to a 4" drop and from previously riding in other trucks dropped 4" in the back i had felt some bottoming out on the bump stops and didnt want that in my truck so a c-notch was necessary . a saw-all made this an easy job imo . only part that i didnt enjoy was drilling 24x 1/2" holes in the frame , hopefully if i ever do another one ill have my mag drill. i swapped the included bump stops from the c notch to a longer softer beltech stop so it would keep it from hitting hard( although @ 4" it never will) i also completely eliminated the stock shock mounts and made my own adjustable versions. i got the lower mounts from competition engineering and the uppers i fabbed a cross member with 1.5x .125 tube with shock tabs and moved them outward as far as possible while still leaving room to run the qa1's as coil overs since the version i got are a threaded body and i am going to be 4-linking the rear soon as mentioned , im going a different direction than most and am going to make the trailering arms on the outside of the frame this will allow me to keep the stock tank and still run a bit wider tire in the rear . i still will need a small section added to the fender wells to clear tire though. ive got some cool ideas on the link to possibly make some kits as it may be bolt in . the coil overs can be welded for better angle or possibly used in the stock location although not ideal and here she is all done in the rear with new color on the brakes, wheels , and lug nuts i had to add some safety equipment aka driveshaft loops to be compliant with the rules and did so using the minumum 2" wide , 1/4 thick steel flat bar on both drive shafts , im still making two more for the other u joints but this will technically pass for now , still need a cage but its not ideal for me and still enjoying this thing. pics of my helper mechanic too (above) suspension unloaded (below)suspension loaded (below) front shaft loop (its a fixed position so i made it fit alot tighter) and my #1 helper both shaft loops are 100% bolt in on any stock SS , the front may need to use a larger loop on a stock ss since my shaft is a bit small diamter now here it is with the new suspension out of the garage for a quick picture

i have none except flaco , a few have subscrubed to mine but i dont upload too often.