.justin.

On the money. My family lives in the Fresno area, used to drive there from San Jose frequently. Don't take 152 from 99 to I5 though. If you're at Belltech (in Sanger), take Jensen down to 41, then head south a few miles to Manning, and take it west all the way to I5... 30-40 miles of a flat, wide, empty road...

That's Reynaldo, not Art. Not to try and steer you away from Rick, but there are some good guys much closer to you. Kushan at Excelsior Motorsports is one and is down in San Diego.

Those numbers are too good. I'd be very suspicious of how the dyno was setup... The numbers are definitely inflated. With drivetrain losses, you'd have to have gained 100hp to be where you're at... not going to happen.

The road runner is a very handy tool, especially on more radical setups where multiple reflashes would otherwise be required. I've been playing with some idle tables the past couple of days using the road runner in my trans am. If you've got any questions about it, I'll be glad to answer. One of the major benefits of using RTACS vs standard autove is that the resulting table will be smooth and natural looking.

Wow, that sucks. Place I went to with my SS in San Jose couldn't have cared less about the radix and outlaw intake...

That is true, but it's going to be rare that you find a smog tech that looks up the EO number to see application.

Welcome aboard

I am very interested, but need to wait until after I buy a house in the next month or two. Do you think your friend can get another set? Justin

I'd mount it as close to the throttle body as possible to try and get as true of a reading as possible. Problem with placing it someplace away from the intake tract is that, while it may be accurately measuring ambient air, the temps entering the motor will be higher. Justin

Hey guys, Just wanted to let everybody that is interested in purchasing their own tuning software know that I'm running a group buy on all V1 products (covers all Gen-III configurations). The thread over there can be found at http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98507 Free shipping on all EFILive products as well. Thanks Justin

Getting ready to buy a house, so the LS7 cam swap into the SSS idea is being shelved. This should make a great blower cam with specs very similar to the LPE GT7 camshaft. IIRC, you'd need an LS2 timing gear, cover and cam sensor to have this work in a Gen-III motor. Believe it was Andy from A&A Corvettes that claimed nearly 100hp gain on a blown motor by switching to this cam from an LS6 cam. Asking $135 shipped. Haven't removed it from the box from the previous seller, so no pictures available yet. Can be provided if needed. Thanks, Justin

Very nice! Do you happen to know what the correction factor was that was used? Was there a weather station at the dyno to accurately capture air temp and humidity? Those two items will make a big difference in the reported torque output. What gear did you make the pull in? Justin

Thanks Guys!

It's not safe to drive with the front shaft removed. The problem with that is when you come to a stop, your brakes will be holding the rear output shaft stationary out of the t-case, but the front output would still be turning. Just remove it when you get to the dyno. It's 4 bolts, 10-11mm, very simple. Justin

PCM4Less Blower tune is a very unnecessarily dangerous tune. There are a number of former customers that can attest to this. Regarding the AWD... You can have it tuned with the front shaft removed, there are quite a few of us here that have done that without any issues. Justin

Whatever you do, be sure that you get a tune from a different tuner. Your pistons will thank you.

No, I mean vehicle braking. The 10 hours I had mine on, everything sounded perfect except when rolling on and off the dyno. When you're in gear and stopped, the T-case will still be spinning the front output shaft.

You'd be fine on a 2wd dyno, just as long as the dyno operator does not use the brakes while the truck is in gear. There are quite a few of us that have done so.

Absolutely do not do that. You will have no gains and likely trip the SES light and default into Speed density. This will leave you with less power, as you'll be stuck on the low octane timing table. If the light does not trip, you will almost surely damage your engine. He said mass air sensor, not IAT...

Yep, sure will. My plans might be changing, I'll know this afternoon. If I'm still coming out, I'll be able to meet up with you at some point on Thursday evening next week. Justin

What are your mods? You won't gain any benefit by doing so, and with the stock operating system, removal of the MAF causes all spark reference to be from the low octane table.

I'm out. I'll be flying into SJ next monday for a few days though. Need any updates?

The radix will be a lot better for towing since it is a roots blower and will make full boost lower in the power band than the sts will.

You won't *need* to do anything, but your transmission will be living on borrowed time. I'd strongly advise a shift kit at the very least.

Magnacharger Radix will do it for you. Will give you the gains you're looking for and is a simple install.