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.justin.

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Posts posted by .justin.

  1. fresno is about 2.5 hours from san jose. then add another 30-45 minutes to get to synergy in newark.

     

    :withstupid: On the money. My family lives in the Fresno area, used to drive there from San Jose frequently. Don't take 152 from 99 to I5 though. If you're at Belltech (in Sanger), take Jensen down to 41, then head south a few miles to Manning, and take it west all the way to I5... 30-40 miles of a flat, wide, empty road...

  2. Art - you know, i did think about that one... unfortunately, the shop i am going to doesnt use HP tuners... i will be going to synergy motorsports which is about 5-6 hours away at somepoint in the next month, just depends how soon all the rest of the crap i got for my truck gets here - and they will do a real in person dyno and street tune...

     

    Rick at synergy is one of the best tuners on the west coast... he has to be for my lazy ass to drive 6 hours for!!

     

    mods going on this month:

     

    Pro Wheels forged 22's and tires

    New complete suspension and drop - going to belltech to do this

    NOS NX kit

    Headers + cats

    triple gauges and pod

    New tune

    cant wait...

     

    That's Reynaldo, not Art. :jester:

     

    Not to try and steer you away from Rick, but there are some good guys much closer to you. Kushan at Excelsior Motorsports is one and is down in San Diego.

  3. Well i finally got my 98 Z71 dyno'd today here are the numbers 307 rwhp and 362 rwtrq are these good for this model with these mods? :cheers:

     

    Those numbers are too good. I'd be very suspicious of how the dyno was setup... The numbers are definitely inflated. With drivetrain losses, you'd have to have gained 100hp to be where you're at... not going to happen.

  4. Anybody used this on an SS yet? Is it worth investing in? I just got the V2 and I'm looking at getting the roadrunner setup to make future tuning a breeze (for the blower / cam / exhaust / etc installs)...

     

    anyone tried this with RTACS yet?

    and sorry for digging up an old thread, but I figured i'd do this instead of making a new one...

     

     

    The road runner is a very handy tool, especially on more radical setups where multiple reflashes would otherwise be required.

     

    I've been playing with some idle tables the past couple of days using the road runner in my trans am. If you've got any questions about it, I'll be glad to answer.

     

    One of the major benefits of using RTACS vs standard autove is that the resulting table will be smooth and natural looking.

  5. mine did.. :banghead:

    i could not find my paper work for my TOGS when i had it smogged. luck i was given a YOU WILL NEED IT NEXT TIME. but he passed me anyway. there getting tougher up here, smog cops are busting a lot of places over stupid stuff. one guy i know was fined $2,500 for not checking the timing on a 83 ford pu.. :nonod:

     

    :seeya:

    Wow, that sucks.

     

    Place I went to with my SS in San Jose couldn't have cared less about the radix and outlaw intake...

  6. I maybe be wrong, but if you run even mid length headers for a 5.3, on a 6.0 you can also get dinked. Because I believe the EO number *can be rated for specific applications. For example, it could just have a 5.3 on the EO and not have the 6.0 I gave up trying to find good headers that will actually provide gains, pass smog regs and inspections in the people’s communist state of kalifornia. :banghead:

    That is true, but it's going to be rare that you find a smog tech that looks up the EO number to see application.

  7. Yes; I want to do this too. I've read a lot on ls1tech about this, it is well discussed there. You might also search PT for a how-to :dunno: I know on our trucks the IAT sensor in the MAF suffers heat-soak really bad. On N/A application (as ours) we want the IAT out in clean air, but in boosted apps you want to read the actual post-intercooler temp...

     

    Mr. P.

     

    I'd mount it as close to the throttle body as possible to try and get as true of a reading as possible. Problem with placing it someplace away from the intake tract is that, while it may be accurately measuring ambient air, the temps entering the motor will be higher.

     

    Justin

  8. Getting ready to buy a house, so the LS7 cam swap into the SSS idea is being shelved. This should make a great blower cam with specs very similar to the LPE GT7 camshaft. IIRC, you'd need an LS2 timing gear, cover and cam sensor to have this work in a Gen-III motor. Believe it was Andy from A&A Corvettes that claimed nearly 100hp gain on a blown motor by switching to this cam from an LS6 cam.

     

    Asking $135 shipped. Haven't removed it from the box from the previous seller, so no pictures available yet. Can be provided if needed.

     

    Thanks,

    Justin

  9. Is it safe to drive around with the front shaft removed? Or should I have it removed once I get to the tuner? (the tuner is probably 30+ miles from where my garage will be)

    It's not safe to drive with the front shaft removed. The problem with that is when you come to a stop, your brakes will be holding the rear output shaft stationary out of the t-case, but the front output would still be turning.

     

    Just remove it when you get to the dyno. It's 4 bolts, 10-11mm, very simple.

     

    Justin

  10. I plan on getting it dyno tuned, not sure if they can do an AWD though?

    Is PCM4Less a bad tune? I've read nothing but good things about them.

     

    What else should I get for the tranny? Since I'll already have it apart?

     

    PCM4Less Blower tune is a very unnecessarily dangerous tune. There are a number of former customers that can attest to this.

     

    Regarding the AWD... You can have it tuned with the front shaft removed, there are quite a few of us here that have done that without any issues.

     

    Justin

  11. You mean dynamic braking? Like the Dyno Dynamics?

     

    No, I mean vehicle braking. The 10 hours I had mine on, everything sounded perfect except when rolling on and off the dyno. When you're in gear and stopped, the T-case will still be spinning the front output shaft.

  12. Absolutely do not do that. You will have no gains and likely trip the SES light and default into Speed density. This will leave you with less power, as you'll be stuck on the low octane timing table. If the light does not trip, you will almost surely damage your engine.

    Crazy ricer mod to trick the PCM into thinking it's colder outside, which adds more timing. Not worth a poo.
    He said mass air sensor, not IAT...
  13. I know this is an SS forum but I figure who better to ask. I have an 07 Nbs Z71 4.8L that I would like to Supercharge. Im wondering what is all involved reenforcement wise? I want to run low boost (mainly for towing and DD) and gain around 75-100HP nothing outstanding. Thanks for your input.

     

    Magnacharger Radix will do it for you. Will give you the gains you're looking for and is a simple install.

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