yembo77

Mike put his stuff in a box and sent it from ws! Thanks guys. Yes I'll most likely be getting rid of the drop shackles and keys. Let me know if you want them. I know I need a new bushings sleeve in one rear shackle. Matt

Mgorman79, that would work perfectly as I have the same truck! Text me a price and hopefully they can fit in a USPS box for flat rate shipping. That is unless you live in NY/NJ? I don't know if there was a difference from 04 to 06 but if those dont work out the shackles from the 06 would work too. I doubt the original owner did spindles. Thanks Matt 201-376-6269

Hey I'd come check out the wheels. Text me a location and price. Matt 201-376-6269

If you've lowered your truck and have the stock parts then let me know what you have. I bought my truck slightly lowered and would like to go back to stock height and ride. Respond to this post or email me at [email protected]

So along similar lines, I too bought ,y truck used and have never been able to figure out if it's lowered or not. My current problem is that my rear spring hangers are cracked and I need to replace them. Can anyone recommend a place or brand and part number for this? Are the SS spring hangers different than a regular 1500? Any help is much appreciated. -Matt

Well after a week and a half and Autozone ordering me the wrong shaft, I took the damaged shaft to Driveline NJ in Clifton. Excellent shop! Dropped it off in the morning and I thought I'd hear from him with a price by the end of the day. Nope, he called me and said, it's done, come pick it up. And he put heavier duty u-joints and yoke in! It'll last the life of the truck. Finally back in action. Hope it holds together now for a little while. BECAUSE, while driving the Impala, that now died. Think my opti finally went @ 175K miles. I'm a lucky one for it to last that long. And well, everything else has been replaced, so it's the only thing left.

So you wanna hear what the problem was? LOOL Thing was humming all week. Wednesday night I'm heading home with my wife and her uncle to get ready for Thanksgiving. The truck is humming like normal and then got louder! It was so loud I pulled off the highway and wondered if maybe I was loosing a wheel or something. NOPE. Pulled a little bit more forward in the parking lot and BANG! Dropped my driveshaft off the transfer case! Ended up being my U-joint failing. Got them both replaced and I'll be picking it up today. SO, at least it wasn't another wheel bearing! Check them U-joints and if they clank loudly, replace them! And and just to clarify... I stil have the B-body! -Matt

This is why I need to get into a club. I'm in NJ Beasst Impala SS club and a lot of those guys also have SSS's. SO, I think I need some parts and you guys can be the judge. Stats: 2004 SSS, AWD, 122K odo. 1. When I put the truck into gear, especially going forward and back like in a K-turn, I get a clank like I have a bad universal joint? Does this sound right? 2. Wheel bearing started humming and now at about 65mph the thing is humming like nuts! I'm also feeling some serious vibration. BUT, both front bearings were done about 3 years or 40K miles ago. SO, which bearings should I use? Timken, Raybestos, Moog, or SMK? SMK states they last 100K miles but then only have a 1 year warrantee. Raybestos have a 3yr 36K, and Timken have a 1yr. I don't want to do these again. Why do these sealed bearings suck SO much? This was never an issue on old cars and now it's an issue on every car I own! (except the old faithful 95 Imp SS). I DON'T THINK it's the front diff bearings as that fluid has been changed often and with royal purple synthetic only. I have a 3rd problem but it's not appropriate to discuss it here as it's electrical. Possessed Seat heater!!! Probably bad switch. Please help fellas. I've done some searching but didn't find quite what I'm looking for. I thought I'd find a sticky, but I remember alot was lost in the crash. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!, Matt 04 Arrival Blue SSS 95 DCM Impala SS 01 bonneville gas saver

It's a good truck and good to look at. I've replaced the front bearings, the washer fluid tank twice and an oil pump so far at 119K miles. It's starting to have little problems like the temperature doesn't read anymore and the seat heater will freak out and turn on and off every once in a while, but it's still holding up. Currently though, it's rides like a worn out whore! The steering wheel shimmies like crazy and I need to post it in the suspension and steering section and try to figure it out. It could be time for steering parts and definitely time for shocks. Tire are new and balanced, so it's something I need to research. Matt

I just searched for this and when I saw shimmy at 55mph I said, EXACTLY. My truck is doing this too. Thought it was the old tires, which were bad, so I put on brand new rims and tires and it still does it! I'm thinking the idler is probably shot, but it's interesting it does it at certain speeds. Mine does it right at 55-60 too, and because of that I thought it was an out of balance tire for sure. But they're brand new and just balanced! it smoothes out at 70. So I'm going to look into some parts, but man it's annoying. Actually, if anyone reads this and knows, what is your preferred method for testing steering parts, especially an idler arm. My method is to take a pry bar and rest it on a jack stand as a pivot and then press upward on the ball joints, or linkage parts. If the play is more than 1/16th" then I can tell that it's worn. Anyone else? -m

Oh I definitely will! I need to get an avatar so people know what I'm drivin. -matt

Awesome, and yes, this was my train of thought. I honestly DO believe that this was a coincidence and not negligence on the mechanics part. The WHY, though, is something that I was wondering too. How could it just go? The gears looked fine, but then why did it not pump? Your post just threw a whole new light on the scenario. Thanks. That's most likely the case. I don't have the pump, but when it failed I did check the oil and it was fine. And my oil lines were leaking, but there was no oil level indicator telling me to add oil and it was changed about 500 miles prior, so the level was no more than a half a quart low. The leaking lines were decent, but not blown. I believe you're probably right about the scored relief valve. What other explanation is there. So the mechanic had the same doubts and bad feelings I did. He charged me normal price for the part, not retail, and only a couple hours labor. New pump, o-ring, gasket set, and 6qts and a new filter for $400. We were both happy with the deal. Thanks!, Matt

I'll be there, but with my Impala SS. Now if I only had a car trailer, I could bring both!

Yeah, they did and confirmed it's not pumping oil, but then they also said they don't know why the pump failed? The Check valve wasn't stuck open and the pump looked functional, but apparently the new pump has done the trick? I've researched the pickup tube o-ring now and I wish they would have called me to let me know they were doing this. I would have had them do the timing chain too while they were in there. I'm at 100K miles now, so it would have been $35 dollar insurance. -m

OK guys. Everyone has been screwed in their lives, including me. So please chime in here and tell me if you think I'm getting the shaft from a mechanics mistake. I've driven 5 chevys to 200K miles! I have NEVER replaced an oil pump. I went to a mechanic with a bent wheel stud on my SSS. He notices my oil lines are leaking. They really were, so I said go ahead and change them. I drive it home and then to work the next day and stop at McD's for breakfast. Come out from McDs and I go to start the truck. The oil pressure is zero and the chimes are screaming! I shut it off, check the oil and it's full. I figure it's the sensor so I start it and listen and slowly the lifters start to tick. I shut it off. I know it's not getting oil. I towed it to the shop. Now the mechanic says it's a total coincidence, but the oil pump is shot. I drove in there needing a wheel stud and now my truck has no oil pressure! ???? I call bullshit and negligence. He said the new lines came in a sealed package. I HAVE to think something happened, even if it's not their fault, but SOmething blew that pump. Maybe it wasn't primed right? I don't know. I won't get screwed again. BUT, this is a reputable mechanic? I know he is. Many people I know trust him, but I feel they had to have made a mistake. My thoughts, I'll pay for the part, but not the labor. That's fair. I'm getting a new pump, but THEY have to admit some fault. What should I do? Livid, -Matt

I think life should be re-evaluated when you have to make a speech about leaving a message board. This is all a hobby, don't make it something more than that, like a relationship. Keep it cool with other people and let opinions just be said. Who cares! It's a friggin truck! A metal truck which you enjoy and provides transportation. Not family, country, or other important things you can't replace. We share info, stories, and hopefully helpful advice and opinions. Perspective... is all I'm sayin. -m

myembada on aim.

The wedding is Actually in Hallsville off 459, I think. Some friends of her parents have a Ranch called Hunt Villa.

Sweet! That sounds great! Looked at the some of the other acceleration vids in your photo bucket and the in cabin sound is awesome. Do you have trans work done or is that just a PCM tune? The shifts are right on and very different than stock. And you're in Longview!! LOL My fiance is from LV too and I'll be getting married there in October! What a small world. Matt 04 AB Silverado SS 95 DCM Impala SS 93 Snow-Commander Bonnie!

Right. Your geometry stays the same and the mounting points for tie-rods, control arms, etc. are all the same, but within the spindle, the bearing, and wheel along with it, is relocated higher up, causing the wheel to ride closer to the body. The only change is the angle of your axle shaft, unless the drop spindles are a drastic drop, which they're casted taller than the stock spindle height, and then the upper control arm angle might change. Drop springs, smaller shocks, cranking down the torsion keys, ALL result in your car riding in a permanent compressed suspension position, which changes the geometry, and causes issues and premature wear.

No takers on my sweet photos? LOL Mr. P? According to your descriptions...these is some drop spindles! That's not 3 inches of clearance, Clarence. -Matt

So I take my truck in to get an alignment and my guy says he can't get the camber bolts to move! Now...there's no reason why they should be frozen, but the truck now has 100K miles. Does anyone know what I can do to remedy this? Are they even adjustable? I can't put heat to them without melting the bushing, so what can I do? Long story short, the toe is now set straight, but I'm worried I'm going to wear the inside of my new front tires out because of a slight negative camber, most likely due to drop spindles. ALSO!!! How many leafs are factory for the rear leaf springs? I think I have 1 or 2 less!!!!! My truck only has 3!!!!! I bought the truck used and I'm finding out new things everyday. Thanks, Matt 04 AB Silverado SS 95 DCM Impala SS 93 beater bonnie!

Does anyone know if this truck is an SS or not? JUst kidding, I like it! I agree, go with the black rims, but I'm starting to like all black and no metal lip, wether chrome or aluminum. -m

EXACTLY! I was in my shop, had everything at my dispose, and still nothing! I wanted to put the word out before I went torching or beating the snot out of it with a mini sledge. Wow...how dumb. I think mine is probably rusted or corroded on place. I can't see it up in there, but it must be some kind of spring loaded latch. -matt

I'd love to, but I think shipping for these would be $500. You're smart wanting the local sale. BUT, they're exactly what I'm looking for! Bump for sweet wheels and nice brakes! Thanks, Matt 04 AB Silverado SS 95 DCM Impala SS 93 beater bonnie!