fordsareslow

You'd have to modify the rear doors, the rocker panel, the cab corners, and the bed pieces that go infront of the wheels. A lot of work and $, but it can be done.

I don't mind the front ends, I just can't stand the ugly wheel wells. The black trucks hides them a little bit but I still don't care for them.

So I take it the Dr. X harness woulnd't work with the TBSS/SSR TB?

VERY adicting game. I was told "This is way too awkward! Some gentleman you turned out to be." when I followed her into the bathroom to go pee.

Thanks Just FWY. I think that truck looks great. I think the guy on pt.net said it runs high 12's or low 13's (can't remember). The only thing that looks off is that it looks as though it is missing the rear cladding pieces. It could be because of the roll pan he used or maybe it's just the picture. Either way the truck looks great. Same here, that's why I've been hesitant about the cladding install. I'll be affraid to take it to the track and get the cladding chipped from the burnouts or drive my truck anywhere as it is still a dd. I still want an 11 second timeslip with the stock longblock 5.3 and I'm not going to stop with the performance mods until I can get it. Once I can get it, I will go back and finish the exterior and buy something else as a dd.

Try giving him a call. As stated above, he isn't on the site much.

My friends tranny just went out in his 01 GMC. His truck is stock so he didn't need a high performance built one. He bought from GM and had installed by the dealership a new one with a 3 year /100K mile warrenty for $200 more than all the local tranny shops wanted just to rebuild his. I think he paid somewhere around $2600 installed after tax and everything.

Do you just need the stock tube that goes from the TB to the Air box? If so I'll make you a really good deal Never mind, I think you need the actual intake manifold...

Looks a little different from when I was last there I may need a few pieces. I'll give you a call later today

Just throwing this out there, but I once had a slight vibration. I did everything to try to figure out what it was and I couldn't figure it out. It would only happen over a certain speed. It ended up being that the stock rubber tranny mount was broken. The rubber split right down the middle. I switched it with a polyurathane (sp) and the vibration went away.

One last one zippy When I pulled the pinion yoke out to change to the billet one for the 1350 u-joints, the pinion seal came out with it. I tried going to all the local auto stores around here but they all gave me the wrong seal. Can you get me the GM part number for a new pinion seal? I have a rear end from an 04 silverado SS? Thanks again in advance

Anyone have any suggestions on settings? I'm no expert, but I believe I should set it stiffer in the back and softer in the front to help weight transfer. Is this correct

That's actually a pic from when they were installed on the guys truck. That is part of a Caltrac traction bar. It doesn't have the bar itself installed so the heim joint is just hanging down.

Well I just picked up some new shocks tonight. I bought some QA1 adjustable shocks from a local guy off of performacetrucks.net (LINK)Here is the info on them: I'm hoping to go test the truck with the new tranny, TOG's, and e-fans this weekend. I'm going to throw these on before I go so I can see how well they will work. Any one a shock expert? If so, where should I start with the settings?

I saw that website when I was looking for parts for my swap. I ended up having Zippy help me get some part numbers and I ordered everything directly from GM. I get a pretty good discount so I ended up saving a lot of money. The part numbers I used are all listed in my conversion thread. The only parts you can't get from GM is the harness (you can get that from speartech), the shorter driveshaft (I had a custom one made with billet 1350 yokes and u-joints), and the crossmemeber (I modified mine myself).

Is your truck lowered?

Here is a pic of the wheels/tires. I'm keeping the wheels (16X8's). I used wheel screws to hold the tires so I wouldn't have to run tubes. MT says that you have to run a minimum 8" wheel with them but I think I've seen people run them on the stock 16X7" wheels. I'm going to run them next weekend with the new tranny combo and see what RPM's I'm crossing the lights at. If I am at a good RPM I'll be ordering some new ones in the exact same size. If I've got some RPM's to spare, I'll order the 26" tall ones. These have a lot of burnouts and 1/4 mile passes on them. They should be ok to run for another 30-40 passes or so but I'm no expert. I'll try to snap a pic's of the tread that's left so you can make your decision. As for price, I'm pretty open so shoot me an offer once the other pic's are up.

What size tires? I have a used set of MT ET Streets. 28" X 11.5" X 16". I only have two though.

2006/2007 Silverado SS grille in red: 15276050

If you can find a whole rear end out of a SS truck that will work. That's what I'm running now. I bought the rear end out of a wrecked truck and sold my stock 3.73 rear end for the same amount of money. So the mod only cost me my time to pull the rear ends out of the trucks and no real money out of my pocket. Rivierakid: The 4.10's made a HUGE difference over the 3.73's. I can't even imagine what it would be like with 4.56's I'm surpirsed you only picked up 300rpm's. I picked that much up switching to the 4.10's... You need to head up this way and bring your truck to the track to lay some times down.

Thanks for all your help Zippy. Sorry I didn't get a chance to talk to you for too long today. I know your busy. Let me know if you need anything. Thanks.

How is the finsih? Any scratches? Post some pics if you can. I might be interested.

I'd say it's the tune. I also live about 10 minutes from the track so I used to go all the time. Try leaving around 1100-1200 RPM's. I found the truck always launched best and had the best ET launching at that RMP. What kind of 60' times are you pulling?

Looks great. What are the specs on that 4L80? Also, I noticed the billet flexplate. It looks like it's curved like the 4.8/5.3 ones, but it has the 6 holes for the 4L80 style converter. Is that what it is and you can run it with out the crank spacer or do you still need the spacer?