fordsareslow

Not calling you an idiot at all. Sorry if it came accross that way Your right in that if one gas company is selling gas for half the price of another, people would buy from that company. The thing is if you were charging a $1.50/gallon right now, you would be out of business fast because you wouldn't be making any money. You can't sell a product for less than what it costs. Only Walmart can do that

It's just basic economics, supply vs. demand. Think about it this way, if you owned a company, would you want people limiting how much money you can make and what you could charge for your product/service? Yes the oil companies make billions of dollars each year, but in comparison, Starbucks actually reports a higher percentage profit than the oil companies do. The oil companies just sell more oil than Starbucks sells coffee, hence the larger $ figure. The other thing is no one is forced to buy gas. People have the option to choose to take other means of transportation, commute with others, or get a job closer to their house. Like everyone mentioned already, stopping for one day wont make any difference. If we were able to build a few refineries in this country, gas prices would be back down to $1.8X/gallon or less and the oil companies would still make as much money as they do now. Everyone would be happy except the environmentalists

My old Walbro was always at 62 PSI at idle and 58 at WOT. It slowly started to loose pressure. It made it down to 56 PSI at idle and would drop to 52 at WOT. I threw in another Walbro pump and it's back up to 62 at idle and 59 at WOT again. The old pump lasted 7k miles.

Well, I think my stock 60e has finally thrown in the towel. It's been a good 8k miles with the radix and 56k miles overall plus close to 300 1/4 mile passes with 50 or so on slicks. I was racing a cammed LS1 SS camaro the other night and when it went to shift into third, the motor just reved up and the truck fell flat on its face. Since then, the truck slips REALLY bad everytime on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift. The 1-2 shift is still fine and the truck is still somewhat drivable. I just have to really feather the gas on the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts to get it to go into gear. I've tried manually shifting it and it slips then as well. I give it another week or so before it goes out completly. The fluid smells burt so I'm thinking the cluth packs are toast. I knew that the stock tranny would eventually fail, I'm just happy it's lasted as long as it has. What would you guys do in my situation, get a built 65e (like a FLT) or go with an 80e with a shift kit. Both setups will end up costing close to the same amount. I know the 80e 1st gear sucks, but since I already have 4.10's I don't think it will be that big of a deal. My goal is to get my truck into the 11's with the 5.3.

That is pretty neat. That would be the ideal setup when installing the cladding. Each bracket would be exactly where it needs to be and it would probably take a lot less time that my method took me.

Those look like the brackets for the rear bed cladding (the piece that goes right in front of the rear wheels) The long bracket is the one that mounts closest to the cab and the shorter is the one that mounts closest to the rear wheel.

I responded to your PM. All the brackets will need to be riveted to the body (except for the ones that hold the front fender cladding on, they use the bolt that holds your fender to your truck). You will also have to drill new holes in the wheel well openings as the cladding doesn't line up with the factory ones. I would HIGHLY suggest mounting that brackets and test fitting everything before the cladding gets painted. Before you drill any holes make sure the brackets are in the right place. To do this, you will need a couple of hours and if you can, get somebody to help you. Mock a piece of cladding on the truck and get it to fit exactly how you want it. Have your friend hold it there and then get under neath the truck and hold a bracket up to the cladding and against the body of the truck. When you've got the bracket in place have your friend carefully remove the cladding piece while your still holding the bracket against the body of the truck, and then have him mark the holes that need to be drilled with a felt tip pen. Do this for all of the brackets and once your done go back and drill all the holes. This method will work for all of the cladding brackets except for the piece that goes on the doors. For those, you will need to do a lot of careful measuring. You can even tape the door bracket to the truck if you think you've got it in the right place and then test the door cladding piece Once you have all the brackets mounted to the truck, go back and mount the cladding to make sure everything fits to your liking. You may have to do some minor adjusting of the brackets. Kind of hard to explain everything in writing but once you get started you'll see what I mean. Hope it helps.

Nice times What are your plans? Keeping the 5.3? Cam? Headers? I'd be interested in seeing your times with a little weight reduction and some sticky tires

I think he posted on another forum saying that they liked the look of the regular rear bumper better. But I'm not 100% sure on that.

PM sent about the J-Tube. BTW: That is a great price.

There's are: 4 #14's 2 #15's 2 #13's

8 Brackets total are needed for it to be done right and fit like the factory. You also need the new filler pieces that go between the headlights and the bumper. I've got a few pictures along with the part numbers floating around somewhere. Let me see if I can dig them up.

From what I've read, you need a MSD-2400. It comes as a pack of 8. I think I read somewhere on performancetrucks.net that if you disassemble the factory connector, the wires are marked A and B. The new MSD's should be marked the same way. Just cut and spice the wires together to the correct side. I haven't actually done this swap yet, but this is what I remember reading. I'm sure someone experienced in doing this will chime in

How much of a drop in IAT's with a radix can you expect to see with a cooler like this?

Sold

04silveradoclone07ss

There are some round clear spacers between the bed and the frame. You could loosen the bed and try to remove them on the side that is high, and then bolt the bed back down and see if that helps. Also, the gaps will look slightly off between the cab and the bed. The bottom of the truck has the cladding and that makes the gap look smaller than the top.

I emailed them yesterday in regards to this, and this is what they had to say... We are working on the design for tooling for this connector. I can let you know a status update around June. Regards, - The Sales Team CASPER'S ELECTRONICS, INC. 1333 Wilhelm Rd. Mundelein, IL 60060 P: 847.247.0484 x 1 F: 847.247.0483 I guess we will have to wait or build our own like Stewart and chpspecial

That's low fp. I have a weak fuel pump right now, and the one time I took it under WOT it dropped down to 52 psi. It had all kinds of detonation which I assume you are seeing as well. Make sure you get the problem handled quick and go easy on the gas until it is.

Nice pictures

I'm glad to hear your both ok. Also glad to hear about the insurance deal. I need to do that with my truck.

It already is ;) That pic is from last year. I'll have pictures VERY soon

I hope he has a speedy recovery