fordsareslow

You can get the Baer Eradispeed rotors and add stainless lines. They would be a huge improvment and a lot less money than the Alumasports.

If you could, I have one more number for you. The 4L80's have a different style bracket for the nuetral safty switch cable. Can you get me the part number for that? TIA again. Bracket

If I were to do it over again, I would do that. I supercharger is cool but there's nothing like a fast NA truck with a huge cam.

With 4.10's at 70mph I'm turning around 2400 RPM's. As far as traction is concerned, get a set of Caltrac traction bars and a set of slicks and you won't have to worry about it. If you use the stock yoke, you need a special u-joint. The NAPA part no. is 240-0447.

Complete from drum to drum

14 bolt IMO. I actually ordered one a few weeks back. Never got around to installing it as my tranny took a dump and I had to return/exchange it for the new tranny. The one I had was GM part #15806746 which is a factory 14 bolt with 4.10 gears. That should be plenty strong. I'll eventually get another one but I'm pretty much broke right now.

I can't believe that someone actually think that it looks good

Just checked, tires are DOT approved. (Tires) I've got the 28 X 11.5 X 16's Let me know when you go and I'll try to get off of work.

That changed. I was going to run the KP 6link bag setup but decided I would rather use the money for go fast mods. I was a little concerned on if it would help/hurt my traction with the bags. I may eventually go with a 4 link setup with coilovers, but that would be WAY down the road.

To run wednesday nights you have to run mufflers. I think the test n' tunes on friday/saturday nights you can run open headers, but I'm not 100% sure. You do have to run d.o.t. approved tires on wednesday nights but not on friday/saturdays. I thought the ET Streets are DOT approved? They've never said anything about them to me before

New times will be very soon. Got the old transmission out last night. What a PIA. Worked from 7pm-11pm last night. It took just as long to get the top bellhousing bolt out as it did to unbolt everything else. Luckily a have a family member with a rack so it made the job a lot easier. Going to bolt the new flexplate/spacer on tonight after work and try to get the new tranny installed. Once I can get it in place, I have to measure for my new driveshaft and start modifying my crossmember. I'm hoping that by this weekend the truck will be back on the road. At the latest, I'll have it at the track on May 16th.

Yep, bone stock tranny lasted around 9k miles with the radix and it finally burnt the clutch packs out of it a week and a half ago. Shoulnd't have a problem with the new tranny. The last time I ran was in October of last year. The mods at the time of the 12.94 pass in the video in my sig were: Radix with 3.3 pulley, Outlaw CAI, Edelrock shorty headers, 4.10 gears, MT ET streets, and a Zippy tune (Full weight including tailgate). New mods that I have to install/finish installing are 4L85e tranny with a 2800 stall, 3.1 pulley for radix, metco 100mm idlers, 05 e-fans, and TOG headers. Once I can get a little more money together, I'm going with the 90mm J-Tube conversion for the radix along with some 60lb injectors. It's going to be tough, but I think I can get the truck into the 11's on the stock longblock

No LT's, no cutout, no converter, 3.3 pulley, and off idle launches=12.9X's I'm shooting for 11's with my 5.3 (stock longblock) Just an FYI, I don't think a 5.3 can handle a 2.8 pulley, I could be wrong though.

Those magazines are rarely right when it comes to track times. My truck was running 15.3X's bone stock and 15.0X with CIA and shorty headers (no tune). The NNBS have a little more horsepower than mine did stock. I agree with Zippy about the times as I have personally seen guys run there bone stock NNBS RCSB trucks and pull off 14.8's-14.9's. With a good tune, CAI, and exhaust setup I see no reason that one can't pull off a 14.25 or so.

It would be interesting to see what times your truck would run with headers, converter, and a shift kit. What kind of car/truck are you going to get next? GL with the sale.

Your fast. Thanks again.

Thanks for the number. Just realized last night that I forgot to get the bolts that bolt the flexplate to the converter. Any chance you can get me those numbers Zippy? Thanks again.

Are you sure? Looking at everyone elses brakes, they all look to be going the same direction as mine

Thanks zippy. I also sent you a PM about the tune.

Forgot to add, I have some other parts I've had for a while that I'm going to install as well. 05 e-fans 145A alt. (already installed) Metco idlers for the radix And Baer Eradispeed rotors (I have them for the front only as I run 16" in the rear at the track) I installed these a few weeks ago.

Here's the part numbers I have so far. The only numbers I don't have yet are the 4L80 tranny mount and the dipstick tube. GM shows two different part numbers for the dipstick tube and I don't know which one I need yet. 19156257 - 4L85e Transmission 15000206 - Converter dust cover 12551367 - 6.0 Flexplate 12563532 - Crank Spacer 12553332 - Flexplate bolts

How about the 4L80e transmission dipstick tube? I was told there are two different numbers. Do you happen to know the part number for the one I need? TIA.

Well my stock 4L60e finally gave up last week. Lost 3rd and 4th gear. I've been doing a lot of research and making a bunch of phone calls. I was thinking of going the level 5 4L65e from FLT but I'd have to wait 3-5 weeks and it would cost me $2,650 for the tranny + $300 for a core charge + shipping + a converter. I know that it is a good tranny and all, but I would have ended up spending close to $4,000 which I wanted to avoid. I ended up ordering a GM Performance built 4l85E tranny along with all the conversion parts directly from GM. I get a pretty good discount from GM so the whole deal ended up costing my around $2,800 for everything and then I'm haveing a shop build me a custom driveshaft with all 1350 components for another $300. So overall, I'll be in my tranny swap for $3,100 for EVERYTHING. Some people don't like the 80's first gear but I think with my 4.10's and the fact this converter is rated to stall at 2300RPM (should be around 2800 with the radix) I should be ok and shouldn't see much if any drop in ET's. Anyways, got most of the parts in yesterday. Going to start the swap tomorrow morning. I'm going to modify my crossmember myself and will start on that once the tranny gets in. I have a list of all the GM parts needed for anyone that's interested. I'm also going to me taking some pictures for a how too. Here's some pictures.... Notice the "Off highway use only" sticker 6.0 flexplate Crank spacer Flywheel bolts I've had this tranny cooler for a year now. I'm finally going to get this installed as well

Sorry, I was in a hurry to leave work when I typed that. The control arm drops down, but it is still connected to the spindle. You don't even have to remove the brakes. When you pull the wheel off, the instructions will all make sence. The first side will take the longest and the second will take half the amount of time. I've done it this way 10+ times on 99+ trucks. I can do it from start to finish in 20-25 minutes per side. I hope this clears it up: 1. Jack the truck up and support it on jack stands 2. Remove the wheel 3. Unbolt the shock at the bottom and top (the shock will just be sitting inthere at this point) 4. Unbolt the sway bar end link and remove the bolt 5. Place a jack under the center of the lower control arm and jack it up to take off some of the pressure 6. Remove the two bolts that hold the lower control arm to the frame 7. Carefully lower the jack (you might have to tap on the lower control arm to get it to come loose from the frame) 8. At this point remove the jack and pull the coil spring and shock out 9. Place the new coil and old shock back into the upper control arm and align the lower control with the coil spring 10. Place the jack back under the lower control arm and carefully jack the lower control arm into place (It will take a little work to get it to line up) 11. Place the two bolts back into the lower control arm (where they mount to the frame) 12. Bolt your sway bar back on 13. Bolt your shcok back into place 14. Check all the nuts and bolts and make sure everything is tight 15. Bolt the wheel back on and move onto the next side

You wont need a spring compressor for the front. Unbolt the shock and the sway bar from the lower control arm. Place a jack under the control arm and remove the two nuts and bolts hold the lower control arm on. Carefully let the jack down and the spring will fall right out of there. Throw the new spring in and bolt everything back together. Very easy to do. You don't even need to lossen or remove the spindle.