paulguy

No problem. Building the box is easy though. Its the finishing that and little tricks that what's worth reading the how-to. Stay tuned...

Lots a few different ways to do seams in carpet, but they require some skill. I prefer no seams, but it takes some work and maybe a little practice. Start by sanding down all the top edges and sides. I use a 40 grit disc on a d/a If i was to guess, I probably go to around a 3/4" to 1" radius on the corners. Blow it off and test fit. I had to do a little notching on this box right at the back corners because it's so wide. On to carpet. Lay you carpet down(remember there is an inside and outside to the material), put the box upside on the carpet, check to make sure you have enough material to wrap all the sides. Tilt the box back on it's side and spray glue the box and the carpet.(always do both sides). Let it tach up for a minute. tilt the box forward and the carpet is glued onto the top. Spray glue one end with glue on the box and carpet. Start on the corners and pull on each corner out and the carpet will stretch. Lift up the carpet while pulling up and mate the corner. Go to the next adjacent corner and do the same. And keep going till the corners are on. The go in between the corners and pull the material and work out the wrinkles. Once the carpet is adhered to the sides and the wrinkles out, you can glue the underside and smooth out any wrinkles on the bottom. I go a couple inches from the edge. I trim the carpet and inch or so from the edge. Just keep going till it's all trimmed up. If you have an stapler handy, you can staple the edges to make sure it can't peel back. Cut out the material where your terminals are and install them now.(I always soldier my wires to the inside of the cups before i put them in. makes life easier. Done. I just have to finish the logo and I'll upload some more pics when that's done. But other then that, screw the subs in and stuff it under the seat and your good to go.

Well I'm building a box for another forum member, so I'd thought I'd take some pics and do a how-to. Supplies needed; A sheet of 3/4 MDF. Wood glue. Staples or Brad Nails. Carpet. I use metra # AC364. Spray adhesive I use V&S 185. Speakers(need them to test fit). Flat Black paint. Speaker wire(should use 12 gauge). Speaker termainal cup if you want one. Or hot glue. Sandpaper. Screws for speakers. Tools Needed; Table saw. Router or jigsaw. Drill. Brad nailer or stapler. Sander. I use a dual action 6". Tape measure. Hole saw. Pencil. Knife. To start of build a frame under the seat. I like to keep my boxes a couple inches back from the front of the seat, I like to line the front up with the gap in the sill panel and I use that for reference to make sure everything is square.This one is 14" x 57". About 8.5" high in the front and 7" in the rear. Minus the 3/4 top too don't forget. Don't nail it together yet. The angle on the front and back is about 8 degrees. This is how I find the angle. Crude but I get paid by the job so it's all about the speed. Then I run the front and back through the table saw and cut 2 inches off. With a 3/4" bottom, it's only 1 1/4" to the bottom, but the floor dips down farther under the seat. Now I glue and nail the frame together. A little sanding and trimming to get it just right. I'm really picky. Still more to go. Now to build the top and bottom. We have to build the hard part first, these are just 14" x whichever length to get to the hump. Remember each side is a different length. Cutting the holes for speakers should be done first. Don't put them too close to the sides if you have big subs. I'll show why later. If you don't have a template you can use a pencil stuck in a piece of wood screwed into the center of the speaker to draw a circle to cut the hole with a jigsaw. Glue and nail the bottoms on and then its on to the hump...yeah compound angles...fun. But once there finished, then the box is almost done. Subs fit, but they're tight. If you sub is deep then this one(about 5"), no problem, just cut out holes in the top piece for the magnets to go through and cover with wood or fibreglass to seal the magnet up. I don't have any pics of doing that, but if anyone wants to know how, just ask. This is alot of room for a deeper sub, probably up to 7 or 8" deep, like I said earlier, don't put them too close to the edge of the box so that the magnets will not hit the bar under the seat. Glue and nail the top on. Done building and on to finishing This one's getting a logo, guess what it is... Cut out holes for terminal cups now before carpet.

That last diagram is wrong. Switch 87 and 87a around.

Are all three relays ground in high?

6 am? Isn't that alittle early? Jk

Then I'll say it... DON'T DO IT! If you need the cash that bad, then I feel for ya, I really do. But posting on a SSS enthusiast site saying your thinking of cutting yours up pisses me off. There's many people out there like myself restoring old cars and trucks, and to scrap one of the soon to be, most collectable trucks, since the 454ss makes people like me wanna cringe. If you have the room to part it out, then you have the room to store it. It'll never be worth less then it is right now and it'll just go up in value. My 2 cents.

I'll be there

Depends on your brand preference and needed features. Do you need a screen, play dvds, bluetooth, usb, ipod, aux input, navigation? Do you want good sound? If so look for 24bit converter. Most decks have interfaces available to add xm, and you can just use your factory antenna. And you'll need a steering wheel interface depending on what deck you have(swi-ps or swi-jack), and a bose adapter like a gmos-04. Plus an antenna adapter.

I looked into this a bit too. With the radio in the pdm, the system on 05-up trucks can be turned on with a tech II, and probably a bcm flash, and then add the sensors and program them to the truck. My trucks an 03, so I don't know if I can get it to work in mine even if I change the PDM.

So stock bose... I would try re-ground the rcas to the deck chassis. Then if that doesn't work, ground the deck to where the bose amp is grounded. If nether works then a ground loop isolator will have to go in. We're getting together(usually timmys) on the 3rd in edmonton. Theres a topic in the meeting section. Should come out.

Hey man, How's it going? I remember you. I miss those rims. What kind of deck is it? And what else is done? Is it just factory bose?

Looks good. Creative design.

I'm in. Maybe I'll have a subbox to bring too...

I'm a por-15 fan, but fish oil or a wax product is the best, you just have to keep re-applying often. And no matter what, pinch welds seems rust out from the inside, no coating is gonna prevent that. I have an old Chevy Short Box that I don't drive anymore. I used to coat the seems with an oil based rustproofer. The trucks been parked for 7 years(since I got the SSS). No rust yet. I probably have one of the last rust free trucks that style left in the area.

Thats no good. I got some tricks to help get rid of it though. Damn pioneer ...

Yep. That is I.

Do you have access to a different iPod? Usually when I'm having trouble with a iPod interface its the firmware on the iPod.

Welcome. There's not really enough room for 2 12s under the seat. I recommend 10s. A couple r types or kickers downfiring under the seat will hammer. You line converter will work fine. The factory Bose sub is in the center console, just hook it up there under the cup holders. Also you can retain everything with an aftermarket headunit and you don't have to re-wire the truck.

Well that pic isn't great and it's hard to tell what wires go to what pins on the relays. But like i said the coil that needs to be powered is pins 85 and 86. Hot on one side(battery power) and the negative trip(pcm) on the other. In the parallel/series two speed fan harness diagrams that I've looked at 2 relays are used for high and one relay for low. If everything is fused properly, you can use a grounding test light to trip the relays to test, and then without the pcm wires hooked up, you won't risk damaging anything.

How ever the deck is wired won't affect the line outs. Sub out should work. Do you try plugging the rca's in a front or rear output?

And the sub level is turned up?

And why is there a fuse by the amp? Is there one under the hood?

did you turn on your sub output on the deck?

Factory harness or aftermarket? found this diagram http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y28/SnakeOiler/Vehicles/Silverado/Projects/ElectricFans-Take2/05FanWiring.jpg The pcm wires just sen a negitve reference wire to the coil on the relays(85 or 86), the other side of the coil should be hot