shadowsniper3006

sorry man, it's been on for over 25,000 miles, no reason to take it off now. Just wanted to let you know the performance vs cost of it. Brad

my ASP wobblies to....but it has been on for around 25,000 miles with out a problem. Not that 200 bucks for a tenth is bad....but that 200 bucks for a different mod can net more. Tune, headers, cam, heads, lighter rims.....

make sure it's worth it to ya...only got me a tenth. Brad

that was on stock 20's in street trim, but no tailgate. Spare full interior everything was there. It was not with me in it, it had about a 1/4 tank or a little less and it was on the scales at route 66 raceway in IL

i weighed in at 5100, 03 ss AWD I'll throw my 2 cents out there to, i've been down this weight road before on the dodge website...The silverado is lighter, no mater what version rc or Ext. There is no debating it. If you try to compare the Ext cab ss to the QC ram the verdict will always be the same the ss will win, because of weight and gears. I hate to compare apples to oranges but the only fair way to compare the 2 brands is the reg cab 2 wheel drive hemi to the AWD SS(the 2 wheel drive ss is a touch faster then the AWD...some times). There will always be the chevy guys saying it's not fair to compare a ext cab awd to a reg cab 2 wheel drive and they're right, it's not apples to apples. The hemi guys will alway say if there ram was lighter it would stand a chance...and they're right, but that isn't apples to apples either because it weighs what it weighs. So take out of this what you will, but the point is there is no fair way to compare these trucks and doing so only gets guys mad. Brad

That answers more then one question for me, if you can't tune em then thats why guys are sticking to a pretty small cam. Thanks Brad

so here is a question that i really don't know the answer to....can a truck be 4x4 and AWD? Or is that not a true AWD just 4x4 on demand? Brad as long as your here, what are the specs on the 6.1 cam? All the hemi's seem to be using it isn't there any other options?

soooo after the week and a half wait that they told me i called again, and now it's going to be another week wait to get the rims that are 5 pounds heavier then the ones i ordered.... Brad

I had a feeling i was behind... My nova is not much to look at, it was a budget build. It's just a 350 chevy punched .030 over. Internally balanced, trw pistons, stock crank, chevy x rods, AFR heads, and a pretty mild cam around .531 lift. The trans is a built th350 with a 3000 stall and a reverse pattern manual shift valve body. The interior is pretty much cleaned out, but we still have all the door panels, dash and 2 bucket seats in it. Running a 10 bolt 4.56 rear end on 28x9.5 slicks. 12.2 on motor, 11.4 on gas you sold your car....to buy a trans! What trans? Brad

they may not be functional for racing...but they sure do look good. Hope the DR give you some more bite, I'm swapping rims and tires to, saving 35-40 pounds per wheel and going 3" smaller. Brad

ok so now what you said makes a lot more sense. No the SS is not built to run with the L or SRT, it was however built to be a loaded sport truck that can also tow your car trailer, take you hunting, tow your boat, or be a reasonable winter driver. Although the performance is not that of the L or SRT it has it's own perks that those 2 really are not meant for. By the way any idea what your times would be in the quarter? Brad

Stick: ok so what do mean add more. it's got the same HP as a hemi and touch more torque. It's got AWD(never offered by dodge for the trucks) or 2 wheel drive, and 4.10 gears. It's also got a 3" lower performance suspension. The X-cab SS stays with or beats the reg cab 2 wheel drive hemi...so tell me where they should add more? By the way what do you drive, what is your ET, what are your mods and where do you live so one of the SS's can line up with you. Don't think I'm coming at you...yet, just trying to see what your background is so i know who i'm dealing with. Brad ok crazy mopar guy...I'll bite I've got a 76 nova that runs 11.4...how far off am I all in fun Brad

what ever Frank charges you is worth it! He did the cam and head swap on my truck along with breaking it in, tuning it and installing the gauges. Not only did he do a good job on the install, but he worked for a couple of weeks to get me a custom grind for the goals i have, along with his continued support after the fact. Brad

FYI The fuel pressure sender that Frank talked about, works great! I use it to monitor my pressure at high rpm. I had Frank install the socal mount and it looks killer! Guys have gotton into my truck and never knew the gauges are aftermarket. It really does look stock and the switch for the power is great when you don't want to have the lights on.

i showed no et gain whats so ever. None from a launch and none from 1/8 to quarter. The only thing i noticed was it doesn't make a difference now if i hot lap the truck. It used to be 1 to 2 tenth faster on a cold motor, now it doesn't matter. On a cobra, who knows, from what i gather it makes a big et drop on a hemi. Brad

same 60" i'm running Brad

nice runs zippy! How about some pics of the new ride. What are your plans with her, just what you have listed or are you going to add some more "go fast" parts? What kinda 60 foot time? Brad

WTF???

i'll give you that...the trucks looks great

hope you have better luck then i did getting someone to show up....i posted on the dodge web site and didn't get one reply. Change anything since you last best run? Brad

i was going to ask the same thing??

ok here are the part numbers i used(or should have used in the -6) these part numbers are for the aeroquip fittings. you can buy them new if you want, or they are reusable so if your ok with some scratches i just found that ebay has a lot of em. i used the AQP racing hose which is just a braided stainless line Hose: 1 piece at 18" and 1 piece at 26" in order COOLER to adapt cooler to -6 AN 2x male-6 to 3/8 npt: FCM2005(make sure that this comes with a crush washer because it seals on the pipe threads and washer not on the inverted flare) From cooler fitting to hose 2x female -6 to hose 90 degree swivel: fcm4032 HOSE end of hose 2x hose to -6 female straight fitting: FCM1012 end of hose to end of hard line adapter 2x Flare union male-6 to male -6: FCM2052 (needed to adapt the 2 female ends on the straight fitting and 3/8 hardline fitting) from end of hose to stock 3/8 hardline 2x -6 AN Female to 3/8 in. Tube: 165106ERL (this is the only earl's fitting i used. i used this one because it is the best fitting for the job. The others will work, but this design makes it easy.) I'm sure Earl's fittings and line will work just as good, but i have a Aeroquip dealer by me so that is why i used them. The earl's fittings i ordered from summit. Remember that using -AN is a very expensive way to do things. It looks killer and function is the best, but it will cost you. Don't be afraid to do it your self, it's all easy. Making the lines is not that bad. If you decide to cut them, wrap the area you want to cut in duct tape. wrap it so your cut line is in the middle of the tape, like your cutting the duct tape in half, this will stop the braid from coming apart as you cut. Use an abrasive wheel to cut through it, whether it is on a chop saw or die grinder a saw blade will fray the braid and be a pain. Once the lines are cut(if you choose to cut them, the lengths i said above will work), unwrap the tape. at this time you need to unscrew the -AN fitting half's(seperate the fitting you will be using). Then put a little anti seize on the end of the braided line(OD on the braid) and on the part of the -AN fitting that goes inside the line(this will be clear when you have the fittings in your hand) . Take the cap of the -AN fitting and put the line into it all the way until it bottoms out, twisting it on like a screw helps. Then put the cap/line into a vise with soft jaws/vise with a rag over the cap/vise with anything to protect the finish(unless you don't care), or if you don't have a vise use the appropriate size wrench(being careful not to scratch the fitting). Then stick the other half of the fitting into the line and push down while you start to screw it in, the threads will catch and it will get progressively harder to tighten as the part of the fitting that projects into the hose starts to seal the further down it goes. Screw the fitting down until you get between 1/32 and 1/16 gap between the cap and screw(other half). don't go until they touch, it's not needed. Then you can repeat this again, again and again until you done. Hope this helps and hope i didn't leave anything out.

i don't think the ls7 will fit the stock lq9 manifold. If i am right the ls7 is 90mm TB with a 4 bolt pattern and the lq9 is a 78mm TB with a 3 bolt pattern. The wiring harness is also different. Brad

let me look them up tonight, a couple guys have ask so I'll just post everything. Brad

my pleasure Brad