SS_bnoon_SS

That area wasn't large enough to mount a compression grommet, which holds the wire better and keeps it from moving around compared to a regular push through grommet.

I just rounded the corner off at the hump... I didn't need a perfect fit back there anyway as the rear is where the sound exits this configuration. Is that what you meant?

No, not yet. If I end up liking the box, I'll cover it and take some finished pics. Basically, the sub sits on about a 10 degree angle facing downwards and slightly towards the back... The box is just a touch to big right now, so I'm going to drill a hole and inject some expanding foam into one of the corners to fill it up a bit. The external dimensions are 21"L by 13" wide and 9" on the front side and 6" on the rear side... BTW, Walmart vinyl?!?!?! Don't think so. It's no match for a high quality two way stretch vinyl from a real interior shop. 12+ POWER! The sub is powered by a ZX350 Phoenix Gold amp for now. I'm trying to reassemble an old Orion 2150 (broken RCA leads) and will probably swap it out soon. Plus, the old Orion SX series amps are black and brushed aluminum, which will look good with the truck colors.

Well, I have one 12L7 square sub right now and it's brand new... (it wouldn't fit without raising the seat. The sub I installed in my truck is the old round "first run" solo-baric that I've ran pretty consistantly 10 years old... It's a little weaker in the suspension control area than it used to be (gets a little muddy at higher volumes if I bump up the bass frequencies to hard), but it's still a great sounding sub. How's that for longevity? 10 years+... at 500-600 watts depending on which amp I ran (I had an Orion 2250 to each one for a while, then dropped down to an Orion 2150 for each, now it's on a Phoenix Gold ZX350 (small amp, but it has to be, otherwise the factory amp/speakers wouldn't be able to keep up). In my experience, subs don't blow or have power handling problems unless people push them into distorsion by over driving the bass frequencies trying to get every last ounce of thump out of them. I've used Stillwater subs in probably 10 different installations of my own over the years and loved every one of them and never "blown" one with one exception, the other "first run" 12" solo-baric that blew from a partially shorted speaker wire. I even had very good experience with the "Stillwater Blues" entry level subs several years back.... Now, I'm not saying that Stillwater is the end all be all of subs. I've had and like the MTX subs, Orion subs, JL Audio, Boston, Cerwin Vega strokers, Rockford, etc... each with their own distinct personality.

Fixed now. My camera makes the images a .JPG file sometimes, other times it's a .jpg in lower case letters instead... weird... BTW, ignore the dirty engine bay... I put on over 1,000 miles last week!

I'll have to disagree with you there P. I really like the old Kicker competition series, the old processed paper cone Rickford Punch subs (you can still find some new or well cared for ones on EBay from time to time. Both were/are great 10's with quickness and the ability to go low (the kickers go lower). The JL 10W6 is killer, and the W3 sounds great (on a lower scale). Given the proper space, two 10's will out perform an equal quality 12" any day... more cone area, probably better power handling split between the two, quicker response... the two 10's are winners all around... That being said, I have a single 12" Kicker solobaric... cause that's what I had available. The other solobaric bit the dust when the speaker wire shorted out on a previous install.

After having some initial problems... I finally have it working properly and decided to take some pics of the initial installation. I made a small bracket to hold my circuit breaker. I mounted it by replacing two existing bolts (the ones that go to the factory battery connection block) with studs/nuts. I covered the leads with heat shrink tubing to better hide them in with the other factory wires. I'll be putting black split loom on them as well, but didn't have enough to do the job right now... Here's the large compression grommet mounted in the firewall. I used a stepped Uni-bit to cut the hole... Finally, a vehicle that doesn't require you to lay flat on your back under tha dash catching hot shards on your forearm and facce to drill through the firewall, LOL! Don't forget to improve the factory ground wire!!! I used 4 gauge (same size as power wire) to go under this factory fender brace bolt... Here's the sub box as it is now. Single 12" Kicker Solobaric (series 1 round). Downward fire, sound exists towards the rear of the cab to lengthen the listening path to the ear for deeper base (lower bass notes are longer and you need to be farther away to hear them properly). Nothing is covered for now, (still testing the box) but everything will be in a matching vinyl (Chris, fast4popper, found a nice Toyota vinyl for his at a local uphoulstry shop that he used in his). I'll be using construction adhesive and some brackets to mount a sheet of 3/4" MDF to the rear cab wall to mount the amps/X-over/EQ's to and covering that in vinyl too. I've already done the rear seat fold down trick, so that part is done... It's about damn time... I've had this thing a year almost and this is the first round of stereo install I've done on it...

I figured it out. I must have bumped the deck a little harder than I had though when I took it out of the dash, or perhaps when it was facing downwards while disconnecting the wires. Just FYI to everyone out there: Eject the discs before removing the deck for a PAC24 install so that the discs have no chance to slide around in there. If it ever does happen to you, don't worry, you can probably fix it easily, just as I did. Here's what was wrong... Remove the head unit from the vehicle. Then, remove this one 5mm bolt from the back of the head unit. Then, use a flat tipped screwdriver to pop up the top cover... (several placed need to be popped lose to raise the lid... Lift the lid once enough of the tabs are popped lose... There were two discs sitting slightly farther outward than the other discs... Popped them back in place with a micro screwdriver... I then reinstalled the lid and put it back into the truck and powered it up. The head unit recognized the discs and was able to function normally. Yeaaaaaaaaay! Now it's time to fire this mother up and start testing the box, cross over points, EQ/AMP installation/etc and get the install all tied up.

Yes, I did that several times... I'm going out now to see if I can take the radio case apart. I think that perhaps a disc got knocked out of place when the radio was being taken in/out of the dash and is jamming it up somehow... maybe... grasping at straws at this point.

After installing my PAC24 unit behind the deck, everything works great except I can't turn on the CD player (it had 6 discs loaded before disconnecting the head unit and hooking it back up through the PAC244 unit). I can't load discs, I can't eject them (it says "No Discs"). The most I get is a flashing disc in the upper left hand corner of the display for a few seconds like it's throwing an error of some sort. Is there a reset somewhere, or am I looking at cracking it open to fix it? EDIT: Also, I had to steal a seemingly unused pin from B2 position to use at B3 for the amp turn on since there was a broken pin there (used PAC 24 unit). There wasn't anything in the factory harness side of the B2 position, so I doubt that's it, but I've heard of weirder things happening...

Yeah, hopefully I can figure out what the servo installation would take. Is there a rebuild manual for our tranny's on Ebay that's any good? Is it on CD ROM? Goodness sakes... I'm so drunk right now I can't even remember what trans I have... O.K., time to put down the Jack and back away from the internet. Good night Gracie...

Heheheheh, you said load... Glad you had a hitch ball that didn't let go when the rear end was off of the ground. I had one pop loose on me one time when the latch came off of the ball... busted the wires clean off and popped a few fuses... Luckily that wasn't on the SSS though. Glad you had fun and made it home safe with the load!

SOLD them on EBay, though the sale may fall through if I can't figure out what to do for tempoarary rims until my Centerlines get off of backorder.

One way to find out if it's a deck or wiring problem would be to switch the speaker leads at the deck side. Swap the leads going from right rear over to the left rear, and from left rear over to the right rear. If the problem stays with the same speaker, then you know you have a wiring problem in the dash, under the carpet, or possibly a short in the door or something. If the problem switches to the other side speaker, then you have a deck/source problem.

Is there a "how to" for the vette servo? Or is it easy enough that nobody needs one? I have the parts, but hadn't planned on doing it yet, but will if it's that much easier with it out...

I had my wheels up on EBay and they were purchased for $1200 shipped. All was fine and dandy until my Centerline wheels were backordered 2-3 weeks... The guy that purchased my rims has given me until Monday to ship them or give him his money back and that's kinda hard to do until I have other rims/tires to put on my truck. My solution is to buy *CHEAP* 15" rims (as in 15-20 bucks each MAX) and use some 15" snow tires that I have in the garage just for a week or so until the new Centerlines get here. Does anyone know if there will be any problems fitting the 15" rims on my truck? They're coming off of a '79 Chevy 4x4 with the proper 6 X 5.5" lug pattern and the offset/backspacing is acceptable for something so temporary... but the brake clearance has me worried...

LOL! At least their profits are going towards Chevy power!

Most people running the TB converter report no heat problems with it. If it's not needed, it's a waste of time/money. If I'm not comfortable with my trans temps after swapping it out, a larger cooler will go on. The shift kit will go in eventually. I have to get the "two person" stuff done first so that I'm not wasting any of my friend's time as he's just as busy as I am. I can handle the pan work myself, so it will be done at a separate time. Being basically stock, I'm not to worried about turning up the line pressure physically just yet. I've got tuning in it right now to up the line pressure and I don't have my own EFI-Live *yet* to change those settings back in order to be ready for the physical line pressure changes...

Also, for the broke bolt... I could care less about that one. Headers and custom built exhaust is also in the near future. If something breaks like that, it will be temprarily welded back on.

No, I'm not doing the shift kit at the same time, no need to as the tranny pan isn't coming off for this install. The truck will be on jack stands (truck sized ones that can lift it high enough to clear). The trans will be lowered to the ground and the converter slipped in right there under the truck, then reinstalled. BTW, are you talking about the top center trans bolt being a stud? I wasn't aware the engine oil dipstick had to come out to drop the trans... the trans dipstick I could see, but the engine oil dipstick?!?!?! SSThunder, no upgraded cooler will be added unless temps get out of hand after the install. The TB converter doesn't add enough slippage to really bring on the heat in most cases like a higher stall would. It also depends on how much towing you do (me = none) and which climate you live in (me = midwest). Anything under about 200 degrees max temps and I'd be happy.

I'm waiting with baited breath to find out what your problem is. I'm installing a TB Stall in a few weeks, then doing the billet servos, metal accum. piston, and a few other things a few weeks after that. I went to www.superior-transmission.com and only saw a bunch of products being listed... no help there...

Well, I'm a few weeks away from attempting my TB converter installation and wanted to know if I should take the time to take pictures of everything or not. I couldn't find a "How To" anywhere on it, so I thought I'd throw this out there. Does anyone have any other last minute tips before diving in? Extra parts that I *need*, like gaskets, torque to yeild bolts, or anything else that could be unforeseen? I know I need the basics, like fluid/filter... I've searched and found the basics, but nothing really in depth regarding anyone else's self installs... Just for reference, in my version of the converter installation, I will be lowering the trans/transfer case as one unit with a cheap Harbor Freight trans jack and assistance from a friend. Beyond that, it's only nuts and bolts!

I don't use anything availble at the local auto parts store because almost all of them use petrolium distilates as the base because it's cheap/easy. The petrol base is what dries/cracks the leather/plastic/vinyl, not alcohol as drako stated. I use Auto Armor water based products that I buy from the local detail shop's commercial counter, because it's a brand the pros use. I only use that a couple of times a year when conditioning is needed. For normal cleanings, I just use HOT HOT HOT water and a regular wash cloth to clean the dust/etc. I don't really like the "wet look" for my interior though...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}> Every speed junkie's dream! x 2