SS_bnoon_SS

Well, that's where you and I differ... I'm a box builder and an ex-installer. These test boxes are being built so that I don't waste time and materials covering it with expensive vinyl and actually drill and bolt it to the truck floor until I know for sure it's going to sound good in the truck. It's not to say that I can't learn something from time to time (like, sayyyyyy speaker placement to make a tall square 12" speaker fit under a seat ). I'll be building a box for the 12L7 some night next week for sure as it's got better specs than the round series 1 Solobaric I have in there now (which does sound pretty good, but the box is a tic to big)... I've also finished resoldering new RCA leads to my Orion 2150 amp, so more power is on the way too...

What if i said I'm getting almost %70 off <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'd still get something different than the JBL... mainly because I've got hook-ups too and don't pay retail for anything. My saying: "If you paid retail, you got ripped off!" I don't like JBL enough that I would pay retail for something else though, or at least buy something at closeout somewhere online... JBL just doesn't sit well with my ears, but maybe that's just me.

Wait a minute, I think I see how they got it to fit... your box is angled out towards the bottom instead of straight down, which lets the driver sit farther forward than I had planned... Hummmmmm, might have to give that a try...

Mainly because I slid my 12L7 under the seat and even sitting on the floor of the cab the magnet touched the bottom of the seat. Maybe I just need to try different angles. Is your box made of 3/4" wood or thicker?

Which washer did you forget?

Tire Rack.

For the money, I'd rather have MB Quart set, or even go with a middle of the line horn driver set. JBL mids/tweets have never sounded "right" to me. The JBL amps I like just fine, and the Pioneer decks are packed with fun features for an "all right" sounding deck.

What are the speakers , 4 or 8 Ohm? What Ohm load is the amp rated for??? Wiring the speakers correctly is where many would-be installers go wrong, so be carefull, or something will likely blow up.

Creamy peanut butter, the oil breaks down the tar and releases it from the paint...

Welcome to the site fellow Ioweeegin! We should be getting our little Iowa meet together soon. I think Chris (fast4popper) was planning on having one at his house sometime this summer...

For the most part, I don't like wheels with that many spokes, but those look really nice!

Corrected for altitude and weather. Correction factor changes with temp/humidity, didn't you know that??? 2006LS2TB, try brake stalling it up to about 2000 rpm's with your foot on the brake, then release the brake and floor the gas at the same time when the last yellow lights up. This lets you launch at a slightly higher RPM. Also, you can shallow stage (BARELY turn on the stage light and don't roll forward at all once it's lit) to get a better "roll out" off of the line. Both will knock the 60 foot down a bit.

They just don't know how, and/or don't have any experience doing it. Move on to a different body shop if you want it molded. Don't make them do something they aren't comfortable with or experienced at, or you both will be unhappy.

Yeah, hopefully I can figure out what the servo installation would take. Is there a rebuild manual for our tranny's on Ebay that's any good? Is it on CD ROM? Goodness sakes... I'm so drunk right now I can't even remember what trans I have... O.K., time to put down the Jack and back away from the internet. Good night Gracie... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The vette servos are very easy and as Zippy recommended get the billet 4th piston and cover for more holding power. As far as the vette install goes it is very easy and I see no need to have a how too especially if you get the billet 4th piston and cover because there is a picture of the entire stack up in case you forget how it goes together. One thing to not is that there is a steel cover over a spring with a snap ring that holds the cover inplace inside one of the pistons, this needs to be removed and reinstalled in the vette piston. The easiest way to remove your servos is piece by piece. Take a long pry bar maybe 24" long and push the cover into the trans prying against the exhaust. Then use a pick or small screw driver to pry out the large retainer ring. Then pry out the stock cover which can be a PITA. then remove the frst piston which will damn near fall out. Then there is a snap ring on the pin that needs to be removed then there is a washer and a spring. (that snap ring will probably give you hell) Then pull the next tow pistons out and thats it. Switch over the snap ring, steel cover and spring into the vette servo then reinstall the stack just as you removed it all. Be sure that the retainer ring for the cover is snapped in COMPLETELY!!! If it's not it will more than likely blow the cover off and damage the case. I had this happen on my SS and I was lucky the trans destryoed itself after I reinstalled the servos, I was able to get it warrantied. LOL they told me it was a defective case! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> So, with this install, do you recommend just getting the pin extender and counting on using it? Or only with the billet 4th piston?

A whine means a diff is set up to loose in most cases... Get a second opinion from another dealer, or a trans/driveline shop. They should be able to tell you if the noise is excessive.

Wow, something isn't right... The sub doesn't even fit under my seat by itself without touching the bottom of the seat. Does your seat go all the way down and lock with that box??? How much space is there between the speaker's "face" and the floor? I'm a little confused now...

Car Sound? I would never, ever ever ever, trust those hacks! Sorry to be so blunt, but when I used to install car audio "on the side" (prior to working at Audio Plus in '96-'97), half of my business was rewiring their installs! I've seen some of their installs since then and they haven't improved in my opinion... They have used one 8 gauge wire split off through a really nice power distribution block to power multiple 500 watts amps, I've pulled 16 gauge speaker wire off of subwoofers, power wire through the firewall without grommets... the list goes on and on. Unless you know someone there and are getting yourself a great deal on equipment (they do have some decent deals there from time to time), do not ever go there again, ESPECIALLY for installation advice!

I hope he recovers and is healthy... Riding without a helmet is stupid, you'd think a person making a hell of a living wearing a helmet would know the importance of proper equipment!

that is a lie. i have 2 of them w/o raising the seat. I also have 2,800 watts going to them. all hidden behind the seat. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> How in the world did you get it to fit? The sub istself touches the bottom of the seat even without a box...

Ahhhhhh, gotcha, stinky and costs the same. I'll stick with my Dead Zone and Road Kill stuff.

Is that the stuff from Home Depot??? Is Peel and Seal what it's called? Which department is it from???

Yeah, I've always liked the Kicker speakers. As I stated in another post, this one is over 10 years old and still going strong!!!

Just in case anyone else ever wants some, I've always gotten mine here http://www.bakerprecision.com/

Can yopu send them to me too? I've just purchsed pieces and parts from here/there and don't have any install instructions... [email protected]

I broke out the office camera just for you. You can see the part near the center "hump" is quite a bit shorter than the outer panel to make it fit better. I need to space the drive up a bit farther though as I can see where the cone has made an impression in the carpet under the seat already (I could hear it at higher volumes too). Oh well, that's why it's a test box...