SS_bnoon_SS

Yeah, it's cheap right now, until the government regulates it... Actually, until they figure out HOW they can regulate it... but com on man, you've got to be able to adapt to the changing times. Over the past 15 years, I've been a copper splicer, a fiber splicer, a telephone switch tech, a Frame Relay/ATM tech, and now I'm doing IP telephony. I've got SIP soft phones and a net cam and can make free phone calls to home when ever I'm on the road just by VPN'ing into our company network. We work with I3 products (http://www.inin.com) to provide VOIP, HMP, TAPI, or plain ol POTS lines off of Windows based server phone systems to our customers. Being Windows based, we can adapt to just about any other Windows programs for Unified Messaging (screen pops, your voice mails come as an email, our system can read your new emails to you over the phone, etc). Being in developement/engineering, we know exactly what we CAN do to commit fraud, we just have to choose not to. It's not to say that I don't know how to commit fraud with any Nortel or AT&T Central Office switch either though... It's all easy, once you know how the things work.

No, turning the adjustment bolt does not change the spring rate. Think of the adjustment bolt/keys/pork chop as a weight jack. It will change the height of the vehicle by changing the angle of attack of the spring, but the spring will retain almost exactly the same stored energy with minor differences for weight shift (front end goes down, it will carry ever so slightly more weight). Unless you lower it enough to rest on the bumpstops, your springs will have the same stiffness as before. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Actually you would be wrong. The reason is because the tortion bars have preload on them from the factory which makes them act stiffer than they really are. When you release the preload then the spring will be softer once the preload is released then yes it will have the same spring rate at any other ride height. Your ride will soften a bit but not much to make enough of a difference IMO. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> O.K., you got me there. Preload would be minimal in both weight jack situations and torsion bar situations as you stated. Preload only refers to how much tension is on the spring at topped out suspension travel, of which there is still a pretty good amount even after lowering the stock keys. I still want to change my torsion bars. Maybe a trip to the salvage yard some weekend to strip some 3/4 tons springs...

Got any install pics of those leafs?

I used my own stainless hardware to attach mine (nuts, washers, and bolts). Of course I didn't go with the lighted tag bolts, or the lighted frame. I got 3 super bright white LED's and have them mounted into the fiberglass pointed downwards towards the plate. Totally hidden from view unless you bend way down to look for them... I'm not posting pics until I get the roll pan painted though...

call me ignorant to the whole roll pan thing. Will this look like the one on your truck? of is that one custom? I do like the look but I also tow quite a a bit. what would I have to do for my hitch? Thanks in advance! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It's the same one he has on his, except i think his is steel? i could be wrong though... if you get a roll pan, you'll need a hidden hitch which can be bought from stylinconepts. BSER, is this a new mold or are you still using the original one? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes, you will need a hidden hitch, but what ever you do, DON'T waste your money on one of their fold down license plate mounts $$$. Instead, hit up a salvage yard and pull a license plate mount off of any second gen F-body car ('70-'81 TA or Camaro for those that are ignorant to the redneck world of muscle cars ). I've got one on my truck that's just about ready for paint if you want to stop by sometime for a look to see what you'd be getting for the roll pan. I didn't get a hidden hitch though as I like having that weight off of the back of the truck for now. I saved my old hitch to modify into what I'd need though instead of buying a new one. Also, it's best to buy a spare relocation kit if you need to keep your spare (I drive a LOT of miles and need mine)... Though you can get it to fit just by loosening the spare tire down a few inches and pushing it as far forward as you can while tightening it back up, it's just probably not the best way. I'll end up just welding or bolting on a new bracket for mine to move forward instead (just the cheap bastard in me, or the fabricator in me, I can't tell which...)

a little high if you wanted the best deal possible, and the tire size is taller than stock... but it's not terrible for a retail shop I guess. My 275/45/20's are $113 each, $79 shipping, $49 mount and balance locally...

I like 4 sets when trying to cut weight at 15+ reps each set. I like 4 sets of 10/8/6/4 reps at increasing weights each set when trying to bulk (i.e. your pyramid), but then add in a burn out if you like of what ever weight gets to you 15 reps for the last set. Just vary your technique about every 4-6 weeks to keep it from becoming routine and hitting a plateau. I've been working out two and a half years, and really heavy into it since January, and have had very good results.

I found some LS1 fuel rails for almost nothing and was wondering if they'd work on an LS2 intake manifold... Anyone know for sure? From the pics I've seen, it looks like it could bolt up, but I can't be 100% sure...

I'm with you there brother! I'm all for being civil when someone's all talk (usually I just end up laughing at them), but if someone touches me, IT'S ON! Especially if I was fresh off of a motorcycle and still wearing a full face brain bucket, LOL! Blur, you should have a BBQ for local SSS.com members and have a good old fashioned bitch session while talking about our favorite trucks. I know it would help me out if I were in that situation. Wish I could be there for you to share a beer and a bitch or two myself. Keep the head up man, you're doing great so far!

is there an echo in here??? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Mallett Industries is putting the same motor on both Solstaces and Saturn Skys...I personally like the look of the Saturn better than the Pontiac.

Hardly; at the time I thought it was my nerd-white legs, but now 20 years later I see it was my fashion sense. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Oh no, don't get them wrong... the ghost-white legs are part of it too. I wore shorts like that, but it was only for track meets and that's what everyone wore back then for track/field events.

Yeah, I'll let you know... I'll need more than a beer cooler though... I can see it all now... "Here, hold this tranny up while I go get the converter off of the bench Chris!"

I can't wait to see them either. If I do the powder coat thing, I'll be having the Chevy emblem painted in the same color, and probably repaint the grills to perfectly match too. I also will be matching the side exit exhaust tips with high temp powder coat in the same color...

Doing the powder myself at a friend's shop, if at all. We've done poweder coating as an "on the side" job for years. I've been thinking about another GTG too. If we do the converter, it will be on a Saturday sometime... I just need to clear some other projects around the house off of my schedule before I can get the converter done. Yeah, kinda like this...

Very nice new look!

Yeah, but did you notice that they aren't just doing an LS7... it's a stage 3 cammed LS7 with custom headers/etc. MUCH more than 600 HP from an SC'ed LS2...

There was a black Mattet LS2 with heads/cam at the cruise night here on Saturday. Sounded bad ass and was pretty quick when he left for the night. Wish I had the cash for something so impractical for myself...

Nope, not kidding. I almost got the California ones that are smooth (without the design), but decided I like the design better. I'll be powder coating the centers dark gray metalic though, for a slightly different look. I know they won't be popular with the younger croud, but I like them. They look like the old wheels a friend had on his (then new) '89 S-10 back in high school. I can't remember the brand name of his rims though... Might have been Colorado Customs perhaps??? Can't remember...

By the way, consider this an *Official Pic Warning*, LOL!

I just ordered my new rims and tires. As the title says, I got the Centerline RF Zoom rims (attached pic) in the 20X8.5" size. They weigh in at only 26 pounds each and cost $125!!! At nearly 10 pounds lighter than anything I could find costing less than $200 each, I couldn't pass them up. The styling is a little retro 80's->early 90's looking, but I really like them. The tires are the Yokohama Geolandar's in 275/45/20 to drop the final drive ratio down by 6.8%. The tires weigh 40 pounds each, for a combined total weight of around 66 pounds, which is about 12 pounds lower than stock per wheel... Plus these tires acually look like (and have been reported on Tire Rack)they can cut tracks through a midwest winter instead of skating around like hockey pucks like the stock Goodyear LS's do. Along with my tb stall, I should hopefully be able to get this pig out of the hole when the foot goes down. I can't wait!!! untitled.bmp

They were the chrome ones, must have been the angles of the pics I took that made them look silver on your screen. They sold on Ebay this weekend though. Good luck finding some.

LOL, I've been hearing alot of that lately <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Budhayes Garage Makeover Specialists Inc.

I've never heard a Corsa system that I've liked. Do you know of any sound clips?

...and remember, I'll work with you on shipping...

West Des Moines, Iowa